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#101 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: St. Paul MN.
Posts: 1,996
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Re: Starter...again...still..
The bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.
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#102 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 288
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Re: Starter...again...still..
Quote:
For all you know a couple of guys were playing grab-a$$ and knocked over an OXY tank, broke the neck on it and it shot across the floor and wham! Right into your flexplate. Then they tried to cover it up by 'doing you a favor'. I saw it in a movie once, so now I'm convinced it's an everyday occurrence ![]() Anyway, because of my enormous distrust of others and their 'skill', I'd rather have my stuff broken than pay someone else to 'fix' it. Do we have any board members in the area that could meet up for a diagnostic session? I would be up for it, but I'm about 10 hours away Sadly, it does sound like the trans needs to come out, or at the least moved back several inches so you can unbolt the flexplate and verify that it's round and true, and that you know exactly what you're working with. Last edited by Zeke's Garage; 02-10-2011 at 10:05 PM. Reason: All my goofy questions were answered already :-( |
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#103 |
Msgt USAF Ret
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 8,714
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Re: Starter...again...still..
Before you go all crazy and start pulling the transmission you need to inspect the flywheel ring gear. It doesn't sound to me like there's anything wrong with it short of maybe a spot where the ring gear is ground off enough for the starter bendix to slip. If it was out of round enough to disconnect then the engine wouldn't make more than one revolution before it reached the bad spot and I gather that you say it turns a few times then starts grinding.
In any case it's easy enough to check. A bad spot on the front of the ring gear (engine side ) would be obvious. Out of round is easy to check by marking a spot on the engine right next to the ring gear and slowly rotating the flywheel and watch the teeth to see if they move away from the mark like truing a bicycle wheel. If you remove the spark plugs it will make turning the engine over a lot easier. I don't feel like re-reading all the posts so I'll ask, have you done anything with the ford solenoid? Here's why. After a time the solenoids get corroded inside and they don't allow full power to go through them. As the engine spins the voltage drops on the large cable and the jumper wire that activates the starter solenoid. This allows the starter solenoid to disengage and re-engage, which moves the starter gear in and out away from the flywheel, causing it to grind. A weak battery would do the same thing. I would make sure the battery is fully charged or even get a jump from another vehicle,then if that didn't work I'd remove the small jumper on the starter solenoid and put both the large cables on the same post on the ford solenoid. Then I'd jump between the large post on the starter solenoid and the S terminal with a screwdriver, make sure the truck is out of gear and ignition off or disabled. You could leave the spark plugs out for easier turning. If the engine turns OK then you can replace the plugs and re-test and if it still turns ok then you know the ford solenoid needs replaced.
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VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative. |
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#104 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pueblo, Colorado
Posts: 49
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Re: Starter...again...still..
My truck is doing the same thing. It starts sometimes but then if it stops at a certain point then it starts grinding or sounds like just the starter is spinning so I have to get my socket and crank the motor over a little and cross my fingers to hope I starts lol then that throws the timing all outta whack. Any suggestions?
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#105 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Russiaville
Posts: 203
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Re: Starter...again...still..
No need for anyone to drive down there. Just take a video recording,with sound, and post it on youtube. You might be able to see what is happening that way. I did this once on my Stealth, no need for an extra pair of eyes that way.
70chevykidd, you definitely have a flat spot on flex plate. The next time it stops in that position, crawl under and feel the teeth on fp, you'll feel it. |
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#106 |
Dude...I'm a CHICK
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Lakeland Georgia
Posts: 6,192
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Re: Starter...again...still..
Zeke, thats funny. I dont think there was anything amiss at the paint shop as far as I know. But that would be just about my luck, I swear im the definition behind "murphys law".
![]() Vette, "sometimes" it will turn a few times, usually it grinds as soon as I turn the key. Last time I tried to start it, it did act like the battery was weak/dying. I havent done anything to the solenoid. "flywheel ring gear", is that the actual "teeth" on the out side of the fly wheel? I can rotate the flywheel as you say and check for out of roundness. I can also take the battery in and have it checked for voltage. Can I take the f%@!d solenoid off all together and put it back the way its supposed to be? If yes, how do I wire it? Diagrams with kindergarten type pics are awesome ![]() Thanks you again!
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~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* "The unexamined life is not worth living" -Socrates ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* '71 GMC Suburban 4x4 |
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#107 |
Words under my name
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Lakewood, Washington
Posts: 181
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Re: Starter...again...still..
LOL thats me as well, since I am completely green at working on these fine trucks and engines!
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69 Chevy CST/10 "Project: Bloody Knuckles" ![]() 2010 VW Golf, daily driver Wrench Rookie |
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#108 |
Msgt USAF Ret
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan
Posts: 8,714
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Re: Starter...again...still..
It's very simple. Follow along below.
AS I understand it this is what you have currently. This is what the stock system looks like. All it involves is removing the battery cable and running a new 4 gauge cable from the battery positive post to the starter solenoid. Then remove the small wire that goes to the ford solenoid and connecting it to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. This wire is a 12 gauge purple wire and it originates at the ignition switch and runs to the neutral start switch on the top of the steering column. From there it goes to the firewall plug by the brake master cylinder, and then to the starter solenoid at the S terminal or the inside terminal next to the block. This wire should already be in place and it is the small wire that powers the ford solenoid, so all you should have to do is connect this wire directly to the starter solenoid if you have enough length. Then you should have a circuit like this.
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VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative. Last edited by VetteVet; 02-11-2011 at 09:36 AM. |
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#109 | |
454 MAKES IT ROAR
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Essex, U.K
Posts: 2,701
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Re: Starter...again...still..
Quote:
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Nigel. An American living in a British body. 1971 Chevy Cheyenne 10 454 "In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth becomes a revolutionary act." - George Orwell "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty" - Thomas Jefferson No more pain. 03.12.60 -- 12.28.10 http://www.youtube.com/Eightbanger |
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#110 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oakland, Ca
Posts: 1,382
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Re: Starter...again...still..
Quote:
When the original poster posted pics of his starter it looks awfully similar to my issue. Look at the last picture in post #1. Shouldn't the flexplate be "further into" the nosecone? |
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#111 |
Dude...I'm a CHICK
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Lakeland Georgia
Posts: 6,192
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Re: Starter...again...still..
I have not resolved it as yet. I got totally frustrated with it and parked it. Gonna try again soon. I go out and start it periodically, most of the time it will start, but sometimes it grinds and wont start. I was hoping my son could help once he got out of AIT, but hes gone right into seasonal training, so, looks like Ill be taking it back to the mechanic. Ill update when I do something with it. Thanks
junk
__________________
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* "The unexamined life is not worth living" -Socrates ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~* '71 GMC Suburban 4x4 |
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#112 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 22
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Re: Starter...again...still..
GMC junkie,
Don't know if your starter problems are fixed but I thought I would chime in. I had the same issues you were having, it starts fine but after driving it, it would grind and not start. Well, I finally found what the issue was. I was using a stock starter from NAPA or SHUCKS or any of those auto parts stores. What I found out was when the engine gets hot, it is hard to turn over because of the heat and compression. Those stock starters are have barely enough torque to turn over the engine especially when it is hot. I installed a mini torque starter and ![]() |
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