Project Texa Go

[mcbassin]

You sure have made a bunch of progress since I last checked in on your build. Awesome work on the engine install. Obviously you did your homework.

[Billett]

Thanks Mike!

Motor mounts are standard style for this year. Adapter plates are from cutthroat4x4 on ebay. Part number on the motor mounts is Prothane 7-509

[Chevymann1968]

Any progress my friend?

[Billett]

Got the break lines fixed and ran it around town for several trips. Runs great, starts up with no problems, everything I hoped for from the LS. Still have some problems to deal with though. Took it into Philly one day and it overheated. Since I haven't been able to get it tuned the fans are not turned on in the PCM. It was fine around town, but sitting in traffic for an hour did it in. Got up to about 250 F or so before I made it over to the shoulder and let it cool off. Still driving it around town, but no more trips to the city til its tuned. Looking into an aluminum rad from champion as well. I know overheating wasn't the radiators fault, but the thing looks pretty beat up.

Other than that, I got most of my dash put back together. Gauges and indicators all work save for the tach. Tried the resistor mod and still can't get a signal so I may have to cough up for one of the autometer boxes that taps into the coil signal...

Oh and the tank leaked a little after the first time I filled it haha. When I drilled the second line into the tank I forgot to seal around the edges of it. Truck still smells a little and I'm going to need new seat belts, but at least this one was my own dumb fault so I can laugh about it.

Buick engine is in the car too, just waiting on a few small parts to come in to get it up and running.

[Billett]

Quite a bit has happened over the last month or so. Pressure tested the radiator and the heater core exploded all over the inside of the cab. Picked up a new heater core and replaced it. Also bought an aluminum 3 row radiator from Pro Performance here on the board for a great price. No over heating problems now. Actually it cools the truck so well that there's barely any heat coming through... Of course the blower motor deciding to quit didn't help that. Eventually it just decided to start working again, so I'm assuming I have a loose wire somewhere I have to find.

Finally got it running well enough to call up my tuner, Race Proven Motorsports in Delaware, and schedule a dyno tune. RPM suggested I pick up a set of NGK TR55s instead of the AC-Delco iridiums I was running. Also had to start running 93 octane for the tune. I was using 87 before because that's what the van style LQ4 ws programmed for. Got 6 of the plugs replaced with no problem and was on the 7th when I pulled one of the ends clean off of the wire... Couldn't reach it well enough and it was below 20 out that day so the suction on the grey rubber boot was crazy. Went to the local autozone on 7 cylinders, (runs pretty smooth with 1 down haha), and grabbed a crappy set of autolites. Got it over to the shop so they could change those last two spark plugs and get it tuned.

That was on Wednesday. Last I've heard they were having trouble tuning it. Said it kept running really rich when they tuned it for the stock 26 lb/hr injectors, but the ones in there are definitely stock. They said as soon as you start the engine it pulls 50% fuel which maxes out the 02 sensors, and they have no idea why. Hopefully they figure it out and I get it back soon. On the upside, hopefully that explains the crappy mileage I had been getting.

Checked 3 tanks when I didn't have the tune. Most of the driving was 70 mph highway/under 50 local easy driving. Got 14/12/14 mpg. I wasn't pleased, but with the new tune and running 93 octane it should be MUCH better. It's been a long time coming!

[69gmcc10]

sounds like you are making some headway, good to hear. Hopefully they can get all of the bugs out. keep us posted!

[hgs_notes]

Hope it's tuned up nice for you. As for the heater blower, might need to check the rheostat on the heater controller that changes the fan speed. I've gone thru a couple of them.

[whitels1]

Glad to see you are getting all of the bugs worked out. I know every time I drive mine it makes me smile!

[Billett]

Still having trouble tuning it... I may have to go and pick it up early as I really need this as my DD and can't borrow a car for much longer.

Apparently the info I posted earlier was a bit misleading. When they get my throttle to 75% or so, that's when it dumps the extra fuel. Still not solved yet though.

We did get the Buick running for a bit, but it needs a new fuel sender before taking it on any decent trips. That should be taken care of this week and then its off the the exhaust shop.

[Chevymann1968]

Any updates on how the tuning is going?

[Billett]

Yeah actually I got it back on the 24th. Runs like a scalded dog, but I still think it could be done a bit better. Super73 was pointing out a few things just from looking at the dyno and I'm still only getting about 14 mpg, which isn't terrible, but I think it should be higher. 20 is a dream, 18 would be awesome, but realistically I think I should get an honest 16mpg out of it so I'll have to see where the other 2 are going, whether it's in the tune or something else holding the truck back.

Speaking of dyno's though...

[Chevymann1968]

Cool deal man.

[Billett]

Finally gave it a bath after all this crappy snow. It's supposed to snow again this week, but at least I got the majority of the road grime off.

Found out yesterday that the tuners never turned off the emissions check in the PCM so that keeps showing up as a problem. Don't know why I ever let anyone else work on it...

Other than that I'm looking into using my tax return for disc brakes and a hydroboost setup, but I may settle with just replacing the drums for now and picking up a few other needed things for it.

[dieseltech619]

Originally Posted by Billett

Finally gave it a bath after all this crappy snow. It's supposed to snow again this week, but at least I got the majority of the road grime off.

Found out yesterday that the tuners never turned off the emissions check in the PCM so that keeps showing up as a problem. Don't know why I ever let anyone else work on it...

Other than that I'm looking into using my tax return for disc brakes and a hydroboost setup, but I may settle with just replacing the drums for now and picking up a few other needed things for it.

There are much better tuners in the area, I have never heard anything good about RPM in regards to workmanship or pricing ... I use CSP in west chester for my gto

[Billett]

I think I may switch. They have a lot of high end cars in the shop all the time, but I'm starting to think that most of those are from rich people in CA or FL who just throw tons of money at their cars and don't care how they actually function. I honestly think that Fran is a good guy and does quality work, but I think the communication between him and the customer is just not there.

[Billett]

I seriously considered saving the money and buying HPT myself. I'm no stranger to computers and I can learn the in's and out's of tuning, but I thought that to get me off the ground it would be more beneficial to get the initial tune done by someone who is experienced. Turns out I may have been wrong. $500 for a questionable tune or $700 for a wideband and HPT for life...

[dieseltech619]

well when you talk prices like that you probably would have been better to do it yourself ... i had my gto tuned for bolt on's when i first got it, them later had the speedo corrected after i changed the rear, and then re-tuned after i did heads and a cam and i don't have $500 out of pocket for all of them combined

[Billett]

Full chassis dyno tunes?

[dieseltech619]

yes

[Billett]

CPS's website says $350 for a tune. The tune from RPM was $300, but unlocking the PCM was another $200. Either way, I'd rather get the software myself.

[Chevymann1968]

Have any luck yet? I am ordering the stuff to start my rebuild this week. Hopefully.

[Billett]

No luck yet with re-tuning the PCM. My brother is going to bring over his tech 2 so we can figure out what's causing the misfire and go from there, but the emissions stuff will probably just stay the way it is for a bit. I'm not worried about inspection because as far as they know the truck doesn't have an obd2 port so I'll just tuck it away.

For brakes, I ended up replacing just about everything. The pedal was sinking which I thought would be the m/c but I didn't see any fluid leaking into the booster and we used a handy cam-on-a-stick to check inside the booster and it was dry. Replaced all of the drums, shoes, and hardware but it still didn't help. Finally realized that my m/c is a dual and it was leaking from one side to the other, not into the booster. Picked up a reman m/c from autozone and everything is working great now. Still think I have a bit of air in the lines and the shoes could use a bit of adjusting, but at least I can stop now and it uses all four brakes not just the fronts haha.

Also, found out that when my exhaust guys welded in the new setup they let the rear rubber line just lay on one side of the exhaust pipe... haven't gotten to it yet, but I bought a replacement hose that I'll tie back a bit. I know I can't tie it too tight because the axle moves and the line needs to flex with it, but touching the exhaust is just not going to work.


All in all, some decent progress. Always wish I had more money to throw at it, but its definitely getting there.

[Billett]

Still a bit of air in the lines but that didn't stop me from having some fun this weekend.

http://youtu.be/qHX3IaXRfn4

http://youtu.be/6Etx-eJC66M

Got to borrow my brother's tech2 as well and found out my TCC is not locking up which would explain the poor mileage... Still don't know what's causing that stupid misfire, but I have some idea's going on on this thread.

[Billett]

Went to bleed the brakes and found out the rears still aren't working. Rubber line from the frame to rear axle is plugged. Got a new one and went to install and the whole steel line is rusted out. Got some new line and got it put in and the T-block at the rear is stripped out... Just can't win sometimes haha.

On the upside I just picked up a set of 71 spindles, rotors, calipers, pads, and bearings for only $80! Pads look brand new and the rotors are definitely reusable. Now I'm only a MC, prop valve, rubber lines, tie rods and ball joints away from discs! Oh and 5 lug steelies. Gonna need those too. Fortunately If I find a set of black steelies and put trim rings on them you probably won't even notice that the fronts are 5 and the rears are 6 lug because the general look is the same.

[Billett]

Got the t fitting and adapter and it still didnt work. Finally took it to my uncle and found out we put the brake hardware in wrong. The two small springs that hold the shoes against the back were on the opposite side which messed everything up. Funny thing is I put them on the way they came off so who knows how long they've been like that... oh well, finally brakes like a champ now!