Rebuild...(pending a name)

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Fastandcrazy

The cab is going to be sandblasted, however, do I do all rust repair first or sand blast first and repair the rust after???

Sandblast the cab first then repair the rust because you need to strip the entire thing so you can find all of the rust not just what has reared it's ugly head so far because chances are there is more hidden problems that you can't see right now.

[Fastandcrazy]

There wasn't any changing of the frame. If I only knew that kernel of information when I was ordering brake lines. I have no idea why DMV told me and had it registered as a '70.
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[67cheby]

very nice and clean, detailed work ! and shop !

[Fastandcrazy]

No changes were made to the frame. I have no idea how or why the DMV registered the truck as a '70. Knowing what I know now would have made ordering brake lines much easier and less painful.
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[Fastandcrazy]

Any tips or good website to reference for removing the windshield and rear window?
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[El Campo]

Are u trying to save the gasket? If not just use a utility knife and cut the gasket from the outside and glass comes right out. I did my rear window just this morning like that
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[Fastandcrazy]

Good deal I appreciate it.
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[Fastandcrazy]

One more step closer to getting this thing sent off to get sandblasted. Got the glass removed. Isn't anywhere as bad as I thought it was going to be. I keep on feeling like every piece i open or take off is just going to be another surprise of some kind of rust.









Also got the tranny sold, so some more working money towards....a new tranny or towards getting the truck sandblasted? Kind of split between the two. Any votes?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Fastandcrazy

One more step closer to getting this thing sent off to get sandblasted. Got the glass removed. Isn't anywhere as bad as I thought it was going to be. I keep on feeling like every piece i open or take off is just going to be another surprise of some kind of rust.


Also got the tranny sold, so some more working money towards....a new tranny or towards getting the truck sandblasted? Kind of split between the two. Any votes?

From the look of the lower windshield area, it looks like you will have a bunch of holes when it comes back from the blaster. If you have rust there, be certain there is a whole bunch more. I know from experience.
I vote go for the sandblasting/ rust repair.

[Fastandcrazy]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

From the look of the lower windshield area, it looks like you will have a bunch of holes when it comes back from the blaster. If you have rust there, be certain there is a whole bunch more. I know from experience.
I vote go for the sandblasting/ rust repair.

Thanks for the tip, hoping for the best.

[Fastandcrazy]

Have some questions. Is it true that there were two different widths of rear ends between 67-72?

Going to be using the BOSS 338 20 x 10, 6.225 Backspacing, +20.00mm offset, should I and/or would I benefit from narrowing the rearend?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Fastandcrazy

Have some questions. Is it true that there were two different widths of rear ends between 67-72?

Going to be using the BOSS 338 20 x 10, 6.225 Backspacing, +20.00mm offset, should I and/or would I benefit from narrowing the rearend?

The difference is between the 6-bolt and 5-bolt axle, when GM went to 5-bolt the track got wider by 0.75" per side so a total of 1.5" so you have to compensate on the backspacing, there are tons of guys on here that can tell you the backspacing you need with a 10" wheel.
The only benifit to narrowing the axle in your case is to achieve a deeper dish rim, however the usual reason to tub it out is so a guy could run wider rear tires to put power to the ground when he needs it to hook up for drag racing.

[nlped]

Keep in mind that in '70 the 6-lug rear could be either width, so be sure to measure axle flange to axle flange. I only know this because I have 2 '70 model trucks & 2 different width 6-lug rearends. Fwiw.
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[Xeen]

Originally Posted by nlped

Keep in mind that in '70 the 6-lug rear could be either width, so be sure to measure axle flange to axle flange. I only know this because I have 2 '70 model trucks & 2 different width 6-lug rearends. Fwiw.

That's interesting I didn't know that, that's why I love this board you learn something you don't know about these trucks all the time.

[nlped]

Yeah, I didn't know it either I wonder if the difference is gmc vs Chevy... The gmc had the wider rearend??? I have a '76 2wd 12 bolt under the '70 GMC now & its even wider. My 18x9.5" 338's fit fine even with that rearend.
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[Fastandcrazy]

Great info. Appreciate it. What's the shorter rearend length? Or the wider rearend length? Just so I can figure out which one I have.
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[steelhorse]

Great build.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by Fastandcrazy

Great info. Appreciate it. What's the shorter rearend length? Or the wider rearend length? Just so I can figure out which one I have.
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Measure from backing plate to backing plate and if it's 55.5" then it is the older 67-69 version and if it's 57" it's the 71-72 version. My 1970 C/10 has the wider 57" rear.

[El Campo]

Be extremely careful about blasting any flat parts of the cab. The metal is so thin on the back and the roof that it warps very easily. Just look at last 2 pages of my thread for proof . That being said its almost the only thing that cleans up gutters and flanges as well as we like. I'm planning on blasting jams, flanges, firewall, etc
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[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by El Campo

Be extremely careful about blasting any flat parts of the cab. The metal is so thin on the back and the roof that it warps very easily. Just look at last 2 pages of my thread for proof . That being said its almost the only thing that cleans up gutters and flanges as well as we like. I'm planning on blasting jams, flanges, firewall, etc
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X2 on this. Stay away from the big flat areas. You can use a DA sander with 80 grit to take it to bare metal. Then, if you have pitting you can hit only the areas needed. The heat from the media can stretch the metal causing warp. It's a pain to fix.

[Fastandcrazy]

Noted on the media blasting. I will relay the information to the guy who's going to be doing the work. I had used Extreme Dynamat on the rear wall, part below the rear window, I'm going to leave that on as it is sooooo not coming off. Hoping that can be somewhat of a heat sink and support the rear wall.
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[Fastandcrazy]

Originally Posted by cericd

Measure from backing plate to backing plate and if it's 55.5" then it is the older 67-69 version and if it's 57" it's the 71-72 version. My 1970 C/10 has the wider 57" rear.

Thanks. I really appreciate the info.
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[Fastandcrazy]

So while waiting for my tool boxes to get back from the coater. I did some work on the Radiator support and brake lines.

Decided to reuse my old one to save some money. It's a small saving but I think its solid enough to keep. Filled some previous holes that were made as well as some factory ones. I took note and only filled the ones I was for sure not going to use. However, if all else fails and I didn't do so well, I can drill a hole for whatever I need. Also going to shave the top portion of the support, so that its a smooth transition from the top to the support for the fenders.




Got the proper brake caliper, went with a non-ebrake setup for the rear for ease of install. I kind of have a plan for an e-brake in the future. Also this gives me an idea of how and where I need to bend up my axle brake lines, which leads me to....



I am probably going to mount the brake line boss here. Where it goes from the solid line to the flexible braided stainless. Reason why, is so that the brake lines will stay clear of the panhard bar. Looking it over, the only issue I may run into is the exhaust. Haven't gave it much thought of how the exhaust is exactly going to go but I am comfortable that the lines will be clear of the exhaust, enough that the fluid won't get hot from the exhaust at least. Also one question from you guys reading this, I am trying to decided how, or if I need, to make a support for the axle lines. From the boss for each flex line to the T fitting where it feeds from the frame, are relatively short. I believe there is enough support from both sides that they will not come lose. My only concern is vibration noise. Any thoughts??? Maybe fab up a bracket off one the bolts for the cover and use a black line clamp?



Final picture. This is to give an idea of how the line clamps are going to be organized. Where every brake clamp is, a fuel line clamp is going to be as well. I am just awaiting some tools so that I can bend up the lines.

[Fastandcrazy]

So here is the reason as to why the front end has not been buttoned up yet. Waiting for this hardware and the CPP drop spindle. As soon as I get the setup, the spindle and some miscellaneous pieces will be sent to the powder coater. Calipers are black with silver logo, spindle is going to be silver. Stay tuned. Ordered from AZ Pro Performance, Travis was helpful with all the questions and concerns I add, also was happy to take my order. Was going to do the Mcgaughys setup up for the front, but they were back ordered, soooooo. I decided to upgrade. Should be a good match with the ABS electric power brake setup.

[Xeen]

A lot of guys just dump the exhaust in front of the rear axle instead of going all the way out the back which seems like a really good idea with the trailing arm setup so I plan to follow in their footsteps.