1971 K20- project just get driveable!!

[y5mgisi]

OR you could just paint the rest of the truck... Just sayin!

[y5mgisi]

Also, What line/type of paint did you use?

[hgs_notes]

Just rub it down with a scuff pad. Looks real good. But it's not a driver yet is it?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Just rub it down with a scuff pad. Looks real good. But it's not a driver yet is it?

Not yet, need to do the brakes yet. wanted to get box painted before the minnesota winter is here. Im also getting the bumpers, tailgate, and a driver door ready to shoot while weather allows. i really need an indoor place to paint. i can do the brakes in the warm shop anyday. also, i am still debating if i should swap in a temporary front axle or just rebuild the one thats in there. If i swap, it would also have to be rebuilt at some point but at least it would be up and running while i rebuild the original. Maybe its easier to just pull the original and rebuild and let the truck sit while i do...

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Also, What line/type of paint did you use?

what i found that would match. Equipment enamel, made by valspar. Cat yellow color is almost a perfect match right out of the quart cans. Nothing special at all.

[y5mgisi]

Like this? Were you able to spray it?

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Tractor...Fe-DQgod2m4Anw

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Like this? Were you able to spray it?

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Tractor...Fe-DQgod2m4Anw

There is a guy here on the forum that used the same stuff on his frame, said it was pretty tough stuff.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

There is a guy here on the forum that used the same stuff on his frame, said it was pretty tough stuff.

Yep! That's the stuff. Its pretty durable, which will be good for this work truck. I added naphtha and hardener/reducer to thin it down some. Its pretty thick right out of the can. Even thinned, I got a fair amount on and no runs either. Course I put in on slow, took about 1.5 hours to shoot the whole bed including a couple coats. I used the same stuff but in semi gloss black for the frame.

[Vintage Windmills]

Results!



Now I need to figure out which rear bumper to run. I like the second one from the left, but it may not be period correct. The one on the right has a shallow area for the plate, so it always got bent. Thinking the one on the left or second to left, any thoughts?

[swamp rat]

I think the grey one might be a late 70's ford bumper, it looks much the ford bumper i bought and never put on my truck.. Not that i think anybody would care...

If ya ran a class 3 hitch you wouldn't have to worry about that shallow area?

[hgs_notes]

If you are going for the classic "look" then use the left 1. Otherwise it really doesn't matter. Most people would never know the difference and it's a work truck that isn't getting parked and judged on the concourse anytime soon.

GET THOSE BRAKES DONE!

[y5mgisi]

Seems so wrong to go and scuff up that nice paint! Though i will admit that it does make it look more "right".

[Vintage Windmills]

Been busy getting my property ready for winter. Also helping my buddy a little with a 67 GMC K1500 I sold him. We are trying to get the big block V6 in it running, here's a pic of it.


Now back to the Ochre 71- I did get the pinion seal replaced in the D44, seal area on yoke journal did not have any wear! Nice to catch a break. Also I did get the front bumper down to bare metal, straightened it, and primed. The rear is pretty much like new! Both from Teeitup, thanks again Randy.


Getting brake parts ready for rear axle rebuild and brake job.

[swamp rat]

I remember that stage.. )

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work, and nice Deere. Does it burn oil?

[mcbassin]

Very nice progress. I like what you did on the bed. Hard work, I can relate.

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys for the compliments, helps keep these drawn out projects going!

Ryan, its a 25 year old oil burner that doesn't burn the oil in the crankcase Love the little 3cyl, diff lock, and 2spd rear end in it. I have a tad over 3 acres in grass and I probably only go through 15 gal of fuel all season! Unfortunately, its the only oil burner on the property now. I am searching craigslist to remedy that though

[Dieselwrencher]

I thought it probably was. Those are some dang nice little tractors. People are still pretty proud of them too!

[Vintage Windmills]

Got the old front axle out on Wednesday. Putting the skyjacker setup and good D44HD in today. Then on to the rear axle bearings, and disc setup. All bundled up, its about 20F out now!

[Vintage Windmills]

First off, I got the front axle in, so that's good. Nice to have lockouts and intact axle shafts!

I also had to grind the rivets off the one upper shock mount since they were loose. I replaced with 2 UNF 3/8" bolts.

Then I lost a couple battles this weekend.
The first is the driveshaft is too short to connect by about an inch when the axle is hanging down. I verified the springs were symmetric and they are. I am going to put a '72 front driveshaft on. They are about 2 inches longer for some reason! Here is a pic, the top yoke is off the ochre 71 and the one in the middle is off the 72 rusty parts truck. Not sure what the bottom was from. Notice how the front yoke portion is a longer on the 72. The main body is also longer than the 71. I wanted to just swap front portions but the 72 front is too tight on the 71 main body.



The axle looks like its where it should be, about halfway between front and rear of fender opening


Second battle I lost was with the shocks. The fronts have 9 inches of travel and only about 3.75" of that is usable between resting height and fully compressed. I'd like more like 5-6 inches of compressible travel. Similar situation on rear. I ordered these per Summit's website with a search filter of 2.5" lift. Guess I should have just ordered stock height. That would give me about 6" of compressible and 3" of extension which seems ideal.


Also thinking I should trim the U bolts down some. Speaking of them, I need to find a torque value for them:

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Second battle I lost was with the shocks. The fronts have 9 inches of travel and only about 3.75" of that is usable between resting height and fully compressed. I'd like more like 5-6 inches of compressible travel. Similar situation on rear. I ordered these per Summit's website with a search filter of 2.5" lift. Guess I should have just ordered stock height. That would give me about 6" of compressible and 3" of extension which seems ideal.


Also thinking I should trim the U bolts down some. Speaking of them, I need to find a torque value for them:

you dont want to limit the ability of the suspension to droop. with only three inches of downtravel in the shock you will be mechanically limiting it with the shock. that can make for a poor ride and may damage the shock. you also dont want to limit the suspension uptravel with the shock, but if you have a little more shock travel than distance to the snubber you should be good. it sounds like you dont have that.

as for the ubolts, i always make em as tight as i can with an end wrench. then check at 500 miles. and again the next time after that you remember. they will loosen.

[swamp rat]

Per the U-bolts i can get the torque later tonight when i get home from work if nobody chimes in.. But if you have time try searching in this thread for a PDF copy of the service manual.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

And per the shocks that's the same trouble i have been sorting out, just be sure not to ding them up so they are returnable.

If you have not already, after you remove the shocks and with wheels on the ground get a measurement on level ground from eye bolt to eye bolt, that's the static sag, then jack up the truck off the wheels and get that measurement that's fully extended dimension.
The formula is posted on my thread to find the remaining usable compression:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...38#post6389138

I really don't know why the drive lines would be different unless they have a manual verses auto tranny or a different transfer case.. So the splines are just to tight to swap the slip yokes? I wonder if its just the diameter of the slip shaft or if its the splines? If its the diameter maybe you could just sand it down a little..

[hgs_notes]

Torque spec of the axle to spring U-bolts is 120 ft-lbs.

[swamp rat]

I also found it to be a good idea to use a little oil on my U bolts the nuts didn't wanna rotate smoothly and squeaked without it. just remember lubricated threads actually will get a smidgen tighter than lubricated threads at the same torque setting..

[Vintage Windmills]

thx all for torque specs

Originally Posted by ryanroo

you dont want to limit the ability of the suspension to droop. with only three inches of downtravel in the shock you will be mechanically limiting it with the shock.

axle drop from weighted to hanging is only ~2 in front and rear. so I am thinking ~3-4 inches of down shock travel and 5 to 6 upwards would be good. Is that what you are shooting for?

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If you have not already, after you remove the shocks and with wheels on the ground get a measurement on level ground from eye bolt to eye bolt, that's the static sag, then jack up the truck off the wheels and get that measurement that's fully extended dimension.
The formula is posted on my thread to find the remaining usable compression:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...38#post6389138

Here are the measurements I took on Monday which led me to state in previous post I have 3.75 of usable compression in the front:

Truck on lift, wheels off ground:
front- 19.75 bolt to bolt
rear- 21.25 bolt to bolt

Truck on ground, weight on axles:
front- 17.63
rear- 19.13

shocks extended:
front-22.75
rear- 26

shocks compressed:
front-13.88
rear-15.75

shock travel then ~9 in front and ~10 in rear.
axle drop from weighted to hanging is only ~2 in front and rear. so I am thinking ~4 inches of down shock travel and 5 to 6 upwards would be good. Is that what you are shooting for? I guess the design goal would be to have just enough downward to prevent shocks fully extending when axle bounces down and then all the rest would be for compressive travel. Golden question is just how much further (if any) can the axle go than the axle off ground (dangling) dimension?

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I really don't know why the drive lines would be different unless they have a manual verses auto tranny or a different transfer case.. So the splines are just to tight to swap the slip yokes? I wonder if its just the diameter of the slip shaft or if its the splines? If its the diameter maybe you could just sand it down a little..

axles from exact same trucks, just a year different. need to measure with caliper but will probably just swap whole driveshaft and be done.