S10 Swap how to

[IWanna49]

Ahh..knew it was on here somewhere, I overlooked it. Thanks, Clay!

Originally Posted by Clay54

Check post #21 on this thread.

[skymangs]

Sorry all, been kinda busy lately.

Iwanna49; Yes! Use Muriatic acid to cut the wax off the frame before you grind it! I detailed it earlier in this thread. If you just grind the metal, you will only work the wax into the pores. The wax will cause poor weld penetration, as well as bead you welds up, making them more prone to cracking.

User Error; I use the factory wiring for electronic gauges. There is no guarantee that the stock senders are going to be compatible with your gauges. I would replace the stock sender with the senders included. But yes, your voltmeter should work, your speedometer should work as well. For temp and oil pressure, use what comes with the kit. Also, Dolphin may use 0-240 ohm fuel sender, I'm not 100% sure. you may find that you will have to use their sender in your fuel tank. Have you already purchased Dolphin gauges? If not, I would recommend looking for another option. I haven't been too happy with the one's I've installed. Lots of "out of the box" issues, like gauges that don't work.

CaliforniaDaddy; BlueJeep beat me to the punch. Just in from of the forward steering box bolt is where I cut mine as well. By the way Bluejeep, that pic looks suspiciously like a Ford Explorer trans cooler you have mounted there!

[BlueJeep]

Nope, I bought it before you shared that money saving tip! It's a B&M unit.

http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70268/...oductId=758370

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; I use the factory wiring for electronic gauges. There is no guarantee that the stock senders are going to be compatible with your gauges. I would replace the stock sender with the senders included. But yes, your voltmeter should work, your speedometer should work as well. For temp and oil pressure, use what comes with the kit. Also, Dolphin may use 0-240 ohm fuel sender, I'm not 100% sure. you may find that you will have to use their sender in your fuel tank. Have you already purchased Dolphin gauges? If not, I would recommend looking for another option. I haven't been too happy with the one's I've installed. Lots of "out of the box" issues, like gauges that don't work.

Yeah I've already purchased them... My wonder about using the included senders is the ecm will no longer be getting info from the alternate senders. I emailed Dolphin and they said the fuel is a 90ohm if memory serves... I haven't asked about the temp and oil pressure... Currently the OEM temp sensor is laying on the intake with a mechanical sender in it's place... it's reading some info but not accurate i'm sure... if I unplug it the computer gets rich and stalls the truck... really hope i can get the oem senders back in the ports and use them with these gauges... what brand have you had luck with using all the oem wiring and senders?

[Old Crow]

Back when EFI first came out a lot of the Chevy trucks had 2 temp senders. One for the gauge and another for the computer. Even now, most of my Vintage Air installations that use electric fans have 2 temp sensors.

[skymangs]

User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

Great info... thanks... I'll head out there in a bit and take a look at the temp sensor, as currently the front one is out and the manual gauge is in it's location... will hunt out the one on the pass side of the head... I was just researching the VSS and looking at pics of the wiring... and I'm seeing it's a two wire set up... any info on which wire does what? Sorry to ask so many questions, I love wiring but I've never messed with any gauges so this is a learning experience for me... Also can anyone post a photo of the gauge cluster plug? I've got a ton of plugs wrapped around my column not being used and that would help me figure out which one I'm searching for...

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; The TBI motor uses 2 temp senders. The one on the passenger head is for the gauge only, The one on the intake is for the ECM. Replace the one on the head with your new sending unit. The ECM doesn't read oil pressure, so you are good to replace that sender anyway.

So, to re-cap, leave the temp sensor in the intake, replace the one in the head with the Dolphin supplied one. Replace the Oil pressure sender with the Dolphin supplied one. Should work like a charm.

There is also a plugged sensor hole on the driver side head (near the exhaust manifold) you can use if you don't want to mess with the original ones.

Yeah I may have to use the one in the drivers side head... The one in the pass head has a single spade connector coming out of it with a red wire attached with a female spade... no clue what it's going to... it runs up to the original loom and I haven't tore it apart to see where it goes... I got into doing a little test lighting on the cluster plug today and found that the pin out you posted is different than mine... I've got no pins in 1,2,3 and 4 and 10 are blinker feeds. 16 is ignition + power... Still unsure on just what year this S10 was... I guess I will just start hooking up one gauge at a time and see where I end up... Can you or someone post a pic of the driver side coolant port I can use for that temp sender? Oil I should be good, just going to use the one where the current mechanical sender is... Speedo, I'm going to need to order a plug since the trans has nothing in that location currently... when I do that can I just run that direct to the speedo? or will I need to include the ECM back into the circuit?

[skymangs]

Front cab stands - measure 2 1/8th" forward of the oval frame hole just behind the flare of the frame (right behind front wheel). Scribe a vertical line. This will mark the rear edge of the front cab stand.

Rear cab stands - measure 10 1/2" from the rear of the 5/8" round frame hole

CaliforniaDaddy; yup, If you are using a long bed, short cab, chassis, the above measurements are what to use.

[rocks23]

Skymangs, this thread is going to be a lifesaver when it comes time to do my '50. Looks like all is pretty clearly explained. SUBSCRIBED!!

[skymangs]

Thank you, I hope it will be a helpful tool to lots of folks.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Thanks for all your work on all this skymangs, this is now a "sticky"

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Thanks for all your work on all this skymangs, this is now a "sticky"

[iowaboynca]

Whoever suggested this be a sticky is a bona fide genius!

[iowaboynca]

Oh, and Congratz!!!

You do great stuff and your explanations are very clear and descriptive. Congratz again!!!

[oldman3]

Hey Chris, congrats on the sticky for a great thread...Jim

[skymangs]

Thanks Bill for making this a sticky. I hope it will be a good tool for quick reference.

Side note. I just got an longbed pickup going on an extended cab in the shop today. As I build this one I'll be able to give ya'll dimensions for extended cab conversion as well.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Side note. I just got an longbed pickup going on an extended cab in the shop today. As I build this one I'll be able to give ya'll dimensions for extended cab conversion as well.

That's what mine is! I trimmed 2.375" off the front of the bed to match the extended cab wheelbase.

[Black93GT]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Side note. I just got an longbed pickup going on an extended cab in the shop today. As I build this one I'll be able to give ya'll dimensions for extended cab conversion as well.

I'm looking forward to this one. I'm hunting for a cheap extended cab for my 3600. They're snagged before I can get to them, and I don't want to pay extra for a pretty one. Can't wait to hear the verdict on this swap.

[skymangs]

User Error; the two wires off the VSS should go directly to the ECM. There will be one wire from the ECM that gives signal to the speedo. I posted the pinout for S10 Dash plug earlier on this thread.

[User Error]

Originally Posted by skymangs

User Error; the two wires off the VSS should go directly to the ECM. There will be one wire from the ECM that gives signal to the speedo. I posted the pinout for S10 Dash plug earlier on this thread.

10-4 anyone have an actual pic of what the gauge plug looks like? I've got the unused portion of the harness all zip tied around the column up under the dash many many plugs... not doing the tear down myself... no clue which plug I'm looking for LoL... Fun stuff finishing someone elses project... it's got it own set of issues...

[skymangs]

On the 3600 build. So far, the cab stand reference points and measurements are exactly the same as the long-bed frame. I am prepping the 5.3L/4L60E combo today, hopefully be the end of the week the bed will be mocked up.

[Old Crow]

Sarge, I see lots of pickups done with the s-10. Ever done an AD panel truck/s-10 swap?

[skymangs]

User error; Correct.

Old Crow; I have not done a panel truck yet, but I can't see the difficulty. They use the same bed and cross sills as a truck. Should be pretty much exactly the same.

[beanyard]

I just bought both a 49 and 53 burb (one for parts) and I was thinking of swapping onto an s10 but I wondered if the low part of the frame would hang too low.