1966 C10 Daily Driver

[KenAdams]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Exhaust is looking nice. Any concerns about trans/clutch service w/the h-pipe under the tail-shaft vs. moving it slightly farther back?

No, I am not going to weld it so I can always remove it in pieces, the H pipe assembly is pretty easy to install from underneath without unbolting anything. I am going to use band clamps to hold it all together. I finally got it all welded up this weekend, it ran a little rough the first time I cranked it up and I figured it was because I didn't have the O2 sensors connected. It still ran rough almost like it was bogging down, but it had perfect fuel pressure, oil pressure, and no misfires. After letting it warm up I noticed the battery boiling over. . The battery voltage was 20+ volts, so I ran the battery up to Advance and check it... yep bad brand new alternator, and the motor runs smooth as glass without the belt on. So, now I get ot play the find out how to warranty a GM Performance Part on Monday.

[ChuckLee]

They make some super cheap ones V band clamps that would do
The trick on ebay unless u r against those.

[packrat42]

any updates on this ?

[KenAdams]

Yea, I've been lazy and it's been cold in the garage. I'll post some pics soon. I've almost got it drivable, just waiting on some steering column bearings to come in.

[Jferrante]

Nice work!

[KenAdams]

I'm finally back after over a year. The truck has sat pretty much since my last post. Ran into a crazy project at work that sucked all my time.

For the last week I somewhat started from the beginning. I torqued and marked every bolt on the frame; drilled some holes I kind of ignored in the Ridetech kit; cut, bent and flared all the hard brake lines; dropped the motor back in (literally so long I don't remember why I had taken it out?); and finished the exhaust and painted it with some high temp paint for no reason other then I ground of some of the aluminized coating when I was fabbing it up and didn't want to see rust spots 20 years from now.

The exhaust took the longest. I had the left rear pipe left to make, had to section it in 5 to get around panhard bar, came out really good though. The brakes took quite a bit of time too. Did it all in 3/16 stainless, so bending, straighting and flaring was a pain.

Trying to wrap things up for real, was kind of hunting and pecking last time I was working on it. I am now in the tighten it for the last time mode.

[KenAdams]

Also going tomorrow to the powdercoater tomorrow for hopefully the last time. I'm going to drop of the steering column tube, the radiator baffles, and the lower steering column clamshell that I forgot last time.

I also decided to shorten the steering column, actually more like shift the steering column by cutting the bottom clamshell. I've seen the other posts on how to shorten the steering column but I like the look of the bottom steering column trim so I decided to go a different route. It only moves it like ~1.5 inches, hopefully it will be enough.

Goal is to move the mount from the adjustable hole to the drilled set behind it.


Has a pretty good natural score line, came out good, should be unnoticeable after powder coating.

[KenAdams]

Day later remember why I removed the motor again. I wanted to bulkhead the brake fittings and remake the cross frame? brake lines.

From above


From below, I found the line separator on ebay from a motor cycle company

[KenAdams]

Started reassembling the front for the last time too. The frame is straight it's the bumper that touched some stuff over the last 50 years. Well... and apparently the grill too.

[Grizz1963]

Love your work and results.

Front end looks just fine to me

[KenAdams]

Got the steering batch back from the powder coater and had to do a quick reassemble of the steering column to get the feel. I refinished the steering wheel last year but didn't document any of it. I did mount the bottom clamshell for the last time today though. Waiting on some bump stops and standoffs so I can mount the accelerator pedal.




I also order the bed kit from MAR-K today and pulled out the bed sides in preparation to meet the sawzall.




I am still planning to take a 20 inch chunk out of the bed and just redrilling the holes for the fenders. I haven't seen it done this way before, but I feel pretty confident.
-I cut 12 out of the middle of the frame and 8 off the rear = 20"
-The long bed wood kit is 97" and short is 77.125" = 19.875"

**August 6, 2018 UPDATE, 12" out of the middle of the frame and 8" off the rear will change the frame from a longbed 127" to a shortbed 115" wheel base. To shorten the bed 12" out of the middle does work, but the correct repositioning of the bolts is moving half 14.5" forward, and half 5.5" to the rear. The stepside step is 14.5" shorter then the longbed step. See page 5.***

[KenAdams]

Hacked off the fenders and steps, that was fun... Looks like I am going to cut and weld the bed sides this weekend.

[okndn]

following

[KenAdams]

Mounted the accelerator pedal from the connect and cruise kit with the help of 3 rulers and a laser pointer. Had to wait till now till the new clutch and brake pedal bump stops came in. I used standoffs and bent the bracket instead of making a new bracket. I might revisit this later but it looks okay and placement ended up perfect. I used these standoffs from Grainger:

1 - 5GHT5 (Standoff, Round, Al, 1/4-20x1)
1 - 5GHT6 (Standoff, Round, Al, 1/4-20x1 1/4)


I was trying to get it as close to GMs recommendation as possible


Standoffs Pictured, I used the 1" on top and 1.25" on the bottom


I was able to get damn near perfect. It's 2.5" away from the brake, 1.25" away from the tunnel, and 2" below the brake pedal top and bottom (The 1.25" standoff on the bottom of the bracket made a big difference getting it aligned.) You can barely see in the picture where I bent the pedal bracket to lay against the firewall. I still need to drill the final hole.

[KenAdams]

No turning back, bed is cut and welded, 20" straight out of the middle. Not pictured welding and grinding. Actually only took 4 hours, very surprised it went that fast. Had an issue with a death wheel exploding on me. First time ever, very glad I was wearing glasses and a shield. Tomorrow I am going to mount the wheel wells. My idea of moving the holes 12" & 8" is not going to work. I held the fender up and it doesn't line up like that.

[RDrancher]

Glad you weren't badly injured. My son was grinding without a shield and had a wheel explode, broke his sunglasses and split his forehead open pretty good. It wasn't a cheap HF wheel either.

[bj383ss]

What a great build. Love how you did your exhaust. I may have to copy.

Bret

[KenAdams]

Mounted a fender. The shorted side step measured out 14.5" inches shorter then the longed step side step, so I moved half of the bolts 14.5" forward and the other 5.5" to the back, ended up perfect.

[rickoner]

Just read through your build. You're doing a hell of a job, brother. It's going to be a blast to drive when you're finished for sure. I hope that you put more than 250 miles a year on it though.

[KenAdams]

Bed wood arrived yesterday, stained outside last night with some red mahogany and brought in to dry till I can get back on it tomorrow and give it a coat of poly.

[KenAdams]

Painted the bed strips and gave the wood a coat of poly before mounting. Haven't mounted the middle boards permanently yet, still need to run the wiring and figure out a solution for the fuel fill.

[KenAdams]

Bought more death wheels and spent forever cutting up the rear bumper. It was originally mounted with angle iron and flat bar to the frame. I cut 90% of it off, hopefully enough that I can mount the rear bumper with something like some repo rear bumper brackets. I'm thinking I'll give them a try first.

Mounted it as level as I could...


Trimmed about 1/2" off the top where I've mounted it to the rear cross sill so the tail gate would open and close without rubbing. Also added a couple 7/16" bolts. Needed to motivate myself with the license plate.

[aggie91]

Love the finish on the bed wood! That bumper is cool too!

[RDrancher]

I have a similar issue with the rear bumper on my '64. Yours is looking good!

[KenAdams]

We have a driver, it made its maiden voyage to the mailbox and back yesterday. Was so exited about working on it all week I didn't take that many pictures. Did snap a couple last night, hope is to get it wrapped up a little more so I can drive it around after I register it on monday.

Left, still needs some metal...


Right:
Didn't document it, but I decided to go with a ford washer, coolant overflow combo (Ford 603212, Dorman 603-212). Fits okay... Dorman quality looks like crap, I'm sure it will break and leak eventually.


I got the stepside steps Line-X. I bought them off here from someone to replace my longbed ones and the color didn't match. Think they look better now


Still in progress on wiring... it's going to be long term battle. Using the american auto wire harness. Good quality, very happy. Went with brown carpet with mass backing from acc, good quality too. Goal is to find someone good with leather to do the seat.


Bed still in progress.