69 c50

[Airdirect]

On the light issue, check the fuses, most likely the problem, if not the bulb. Be sure to use dielectric grease on the bulb sockets, it will save you lots of problems down the road. What kind of parking brake does it have?

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Fuses all seemed good, I have all new to install when it warms up just in case. I use dielectric grease on everything. For parking brake it has the air obviously and then it has the emergency brake I guess we can call it, the drum mounted to the back of the transmission. It is in working order believe it or not

[Airdirect]

Does it have spring brakes on the rear axle?

[Airdirect]

If you have spring parking air brakes (bottom picture), they are the best parking brake to have. Some air parking brakes rely on air pressure to hold them on and will release once air pressure leaks off. I had a 1968 GMC 9500 that did not have spring parking brakes, just the lever transmission drum brake. It was a poor setup as you would set the air parking brake and the drum, then the air would leak off and the truck could overpower the manual brake and roll.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Yes it does. That's why it was a pain to get it running. I ended up taking an air tank with me so I could pull start it. I usually leave a manual transmission in reverse when I stop and set the parking brake. No need to on this truck.

[Airdirect]

Wonderful, you are in good shape. FYI any truck shop can supply you with T bolts that go in the end of the air cylinder and manually compress the brakes to pull the springs off. Good to have a set of these in the glove box.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

That's good to know! Once I get my hands on whatever fly wheel I need or fix the current one it shouldn't be an issue. I fixed one air leak earlier. There's more, my wife could hear it when I parked it. Unfortunately for me I'm half deaf with a sore back, I'll find more later. It's way too cold to even be outside messing with it. Thanks for the info!

[Airdirect]

Another safety feature is that in the event of loss of air pressure, the brakes apply and provide maximum brake force on the rear axle. Best brakes to have, I think the government has reduced truck safety with the CDL air brake requirement, as all truck should have air brakes. Yes you have to get used to the power and application, still the only way to quickly stop a heavy load. My truck has juice brakes which work excellent, but they are no match for well adjusted air brakes. I have found that air brakes provide the least problems and are easier to work on when necessary. Just keep your tank drained and air dryer serviced if equipped.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Talk about a learning curve trying to get used to them. I moved the brake pedal about a quarter of an inch or so and locked up the tires the first time I hit the brakes pulling out I ended up having to stop in a hurry when I got close to home, same thing. That'll wake you up in a hurry!

[C10 - C90 Bill]

I was wondering if you had a Maxi Brake (Spring Brakes).

It is one of the best inventions ever made.

Two of my trucks did not have them, but my '71 9500 did.

[Airdirect]

I remember that learning curve. When you get use to having them you will wonder why you car brakes won't stop!

[Airdirect]

Originally Posted by C10 - C90 Bill

I was wondering if you had a Maxi Brake (Spring Brakes).

It is one of the best inventions ever made.

Two of my trucks did not have them, but my '71 9500 did.

It's right up there with sliced bread for sure!

[Pvmt-Pndr]

I've only driven her 200 miles and loved it. I wasn't loving stopping for fuel 3x though. It definatly doesn't have an OD. Pulling some of the hills today I went from 55 to 46. She definatly needs some looking into with that. It has a misfire and I'm going to adjust the valves when it warms up enough, that won't be soon. She was happiest down low in the rpms for sure. It reminded me of the diesel trucks I've had.

I'm still looking at options for an OD transmission. 1st gear isn't needed while empty at all. I put the rear end in high and kept it there the whole way home. 1st gear low I'm sure I could pull a mountain at 1/4 mph

[C10 - C90 Bill]

To keep it basically original, you have 3 options. The OD Trans would be the nicest and the easiest. Another is that you could try to find another Rear with Higher Gears. The 3rd would be installing an Aux Trans that would include an OD. You would then have 2 Sticks. With that you could give up your 2-Speed Rear if you wanted to.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

I don't mind shying away from original. I believe an era correct OD transmission is between .77-.80 ratio. I'm not sure what that would translate to in mph. A shear guess would be around 65 and using 1st to take off would then be a must. I'm sure that would be the cheapest and most efficient way to go about it.

As far as newer OD transmissions that would live in the truck I'm pretty well clueless at this point. Any input on that?

I'm getting a lot of mixed info on the flywheel and exactly which one I need still too.

[Airdirect]

Tune it up and try it for a while. These engines are made to turn higher RPM's, 3500 to 4000 was pretty normal on the 454 I drove.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Without a tack I was going on feel. I was pushing it. The exhaust was so loud in the cab! A buddy of mine who was following behind me said it was insanely loud to him back there! A set of headers, new mufflers and extend the tail pipes back are a must too

[Nobighurry]

Originally Posted by Pvmt-Pndr

Without a tack I was going on feel. I was pushing it. The exhaust was so loud in the cab! A buddy of mine who was following behind me said it was insanely loud to him back there! A set of headers, new mufflers and extend the tail pipes back are a must too

I ran a set of 2.5" flowmaster HP2 on my 366. They have a great sound and the small tube shape leaves lots of room for future modifications. I ran turn downs just beyond the rear of the cab. Very happy.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

I want to talk about tires. These ones are ok for what I'll be doing any time soon. The fronts are 20/9.00R20 and the rears are 295/75R22.5. I've been doing a lot of searching on them and before I got the truck home was under the impression that they were rare tires. Googling the tires I'm finding them for good prices in an abundance. Am I missing something? I did look at my tires and they have tubes. Is it just a matter of buying tires and then tubes and calling it good? What I'm seeing is roughly $1500 in tires and tubes unless I'm missing something. If I'm not that seems like a good price for a piece of mind. I have spent $2200 on 4 tires for an F250 once

[Nobighurry]

You want the 22.5s. They are the common truck tire today. The 295s are considered low profiles and are close to the diameter of the 20" original fronts. When you change the fronts, get the same 22.5 size. The 22.5s are also tubeless. When you change the fronts to 22.5 you can buy the rims used for about $50, pretty plentiful. They will match up to the Dayton hubs without modification

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Also, if you buy your Tires at a local truck tire dealer for comparable prices, they will usually install them for no charge. But after you get their pricing, ask if it would also include installation first.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Don't mind my ignorance but I feel like I'm missing something here.

The 295s that are on the back of the truck are already 22.5s so I shouldn't have to replace the rims just the tires? They do say tube tire on them. Can I put a tubeless tire on those rims without tubes? Or can I put a tubeless tire on the rims and run tubes if need be? What is a good option for a taller tire to help get the top speed up? Some confusion sets in here for the rears, since they're already 22.5s should the rear tires be tubeless currently and someone put tires that require tubes on them?

I think I have a good grasp on the fronts. 22.5 rims and tires just replace everything for convience down the road if I have a problem. No need to change the spokes or hubs and the 22.5s are a direct swap. And I would be running tubeless tires at that point.

I've never had one of these tirea off or apart so bear with me and my learning curve. I appreciate the help

[Nobighurry]

Originally Posted by Pvmt-Pndr

Don't mind my ignorance but I feel like I'm missing something here.

The 295s that are on the back of the truck are already 22.5s so I shouldn't have to replace the rims just the tires? Yes
They do say tube tire on them. Can I put a tubeless tire on those rims without tubes? Or can I put a tubeless tire on the rims and run tubes if need be? What is a good option for a taller tire to help get the top speed up? 11r22.5 are about 2 in taller

Some confusion sets in here for the rears, since they're already 22.5s should the rear tires be tubeless currently and someone put tires that require tubes on them? That I dont know

I think I have a good grasp on the fronts. 22.5 rims and tires just replace everything for convience down the road if I have a problem. No need to change the spokes or hubs and the 22.5s are a direct swap. Correct

And I would be running tubeless tires at that point.

I've never had one of these tirea off or apart so bear with me and my learning curve. I appreciate the help

Answers above

[Pvmt-Pndr]

Originally Posted by Nobighurry

Answers above

Thank you! I will be doing the fronts before the rears because I noticed a crack in the tire right at the rim. For the rears I'll be stuffing the tallest tire I can find back there. Hopefully then I'll be able to break the 60 mph goal I have in mind.

So much to do! Since I won't be putting it on the road any time soon tires will wait but was definatly worth talking about. Thanks guys.

Any info on the flywheel? I can't find a definite answer to that yet.

[Nobighurry]

I like to approach things first that may destroy me, someone else or my truck. Updating the electrical system, then brakes then the other trival things. Change all the fluids.
You'll find that a lot of cab parts are interchangeable with the c10.