'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[76C10Stepside]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Also picked up my color matched paint and other supplies. Got some POR-20 to try out on the header too. Anyone use it?

As usual, you've done a very inspiring job on the newest fabrication!
Why POR-20 on the header? Weren't you touting high-temp power coating the other day? ;-}

[Frizzle Fry]

Nope. If anything I would ceramic coat it, which requires much higher temps and more capacity than my oven offers. Or pay $300 to have it done professionaly; which is why the POR-20 is worth a shot IMO.
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[smbrouss70]

My dad used the POR-20 on his stock maifolds on his 67 GTO, and says he will never use anything else again. He did clean and media blast them real good before he put it on and applied 3 coats, and it hasn't started to change colors or burn off yet. After seeing how nice it still looks, I'll be using it on my Corvette manifolds. I woud assume it woud work on headers too, as long as you blast them so that they have a good "bite" for the paint.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

My dad used the POR-20 on his stock maifolds on his 67 GTO, and says he will never use anything else again. He did clean and media blast them real good before he put it on and applied 3 coats, and it hasn't started to change colors or burn off yet. After seeing how nice it still looks, I'll be using it on my Corvette manifolds. I woud assume it woud work on headers too, as long as you blast them so that they have a good "bite" for the paint.

Glad to hear it. I understand the metal needs some "bite" (blasted). Also read it helps to preheat the part if possible, then bake at ~300 for an hour to partially cure (maybe between coats?). Apparently it will stay a bit tacky until it gets hot enough to fully cure.
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[smbrouss70]

Yeah, my dad did tell me that, but he just bolted his on and used the exhaust heat to cure it.

[low'n slow]

How are you going to control the heat coming through the floorboard by the seat? Double the floor with an airgap between them?

[Frizzle Fry]

The floor is being raised enough there to accommodate a decent gap. The muffler itself is a Flowmaster DBX, which is supposed to have very low external heat. Combine that with the wave terminator/resonator right behind the header and we should be good. May do some under-hood-type insulation there and the trans tunnel.
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[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Also picked up my color matched paint and other supplies. Got some POR-20 to try out on the header too. Anyone use it?

Sounds like a good product. 1400 degrees should hold up on headers if you don't go too lean.

[76C10Stepside]

The POR-20 sounds great. Hope your passenger has enough footroom down there.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Hope your passenger has enough footroom down there.

Yeh, Maybach is not worried...

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Glad to hear it. I understand the metal needs some "bite" (blasted). Also read it helps to preheat the part if possible, then bake at ~300 for an hour to partially cure (maybe between coats?). Apparently it will stay a bit tacky until it gets hot enough to fully cure.
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when you blast it, use aluminum oxide, and when you take the part out of the oven, use gloves(nitrile etc) so you don't contaminate it with oil before you coat it. just make sure you blow the dust off after you take it from the blast cabinet. i have a set of headers with that on it on a weld, but never tried it. i'm sure you could let it air dry then bolt it on and run it to make it cook on.

[thor]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Need to make some changes to accommodate the wave termination box:

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

when you blast it, use aluminum oxide, and when you take the part out of the oven, use gloves(nitrile etc) so you don't contaminate it with oil before you coat it. just make sure you blow the dust off after you take it from the blast cabinet. i have a set of headers with that on it on a weld, but never tried it. i'm sure you could let it air dry then bolt it on and run it to make it cook on.

Cool. I use garnet. Any reason to believe alox would be better?

Originally Posted by thor

Been workin long hours at the "real job." Right now it's 12hr days x 6 days/wk.

Nonetheless, I have worked some shop time in here and there. Did some serious degreasing/cleaning of the undercarriage. It's amazing how well a nice coat of oily-dirt-grime preserves metal.

Working on hanging the muffler now. Then I'll connect the dots...

[76C10Stepside]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Cool. I use garnet. Any reason to believe alox would be better?

I doubt it. Softer and not as sharp as garnet. Maybe cheaper...

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Been workin long hours at the "real job." Right now it's 12hr days x 6 days/wk.

These days it's either a) work you to death for too little pay or b) out of work, and very little else. Whatever happened to honest wages for an honest days work?

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Nonetheless, I have worked some shop time in here and there. Did some serious degreasing/cleaning of the undercarriage. It's amazing how well a nice coat of oily-dirt-grime preserves metal.

Poor man's undercoating!

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Working on hanging the muffler now. Then I'll connect the dots...

Let's see some more photos of the whole car in its current state!

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Working on hanging the muffler now. Then I'll connect the dots...

Muffler bearings or the "O" pipe muffler?

[mcbassin]

Pictures??

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Cool. I use garnet. Any reason to believe alox would be better?

sorry for the late reply..... been a little busy... it cuts really fast and leaves a good "bite" for them coating. i use it mainly because it's faster but does eat my gun tips fast.
also the directions from columbia coatings say this for using with ceramic coatings
Degrease Part Before Sandblasting! DO NOT BLAST PART WITH GREASE OR OIL ON IT
Sandblast with Black Oxide or Aluminum Oxide. DO NOT USE GLASS BEAD (leaves silicate contaminates)
Blow off excess blasting dust with Clean Dry Air
Preheat part at 400 Degrees for 30 Minutes to eliminate any contaminates missed by sandblasting.
Remove Part from Oven and inspect for defects such as "oil bleed out." Handle only with clean gloves.
Apply ceramic coating with an airbrush or detail touch up gun or similar equipment, with fine spray pattern.

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

I doubt it. Softer and not as sharp as garnet. Maybe cheaper...

actually that's not true..... it's more expensive, sharper, and harder....

http://www.optaminerals.com/Abrasive...num-Oxide.html
"Aluminum oxide is the second-hardest mineral after diamond.

Opta Minerals makes brown aluminum oxide produced by fusing bauxite and anthracite in an electric arc furnace at high temperature.

The resulting oxide is over 95% Al203. Its high density and angular sharpness make it one of the fastest, most versatile and economical cutting abrasives available, usable in both dry and wet blasting applications from cleaning and deburring to etching and finishing."


http://www.optaminerals.com/Abrasive...-Cleaning.html

"Garnet, derived from mined Almandite and Andradite mineral deposits, is a semi-precious stone. Once extracted, it is processed and then screened to the desired grade.

The combination of the high density and physical properties make Garnet nature’s most highly efficient, effective and safe abrasive for both wet and dry blasting applications."

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

These days it's either a) work you to death for too little pay or b) out of work, and very little else. Whatever happened to honest wages for an honest days work?

I know man. The rich are getting richer and the middle class is disappearing. Don't get me started. These 6x12 weeks are killing this project. I can only look forward to coming out the other end with a few extra bucks.

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Poor man's undercoating!

Whatever works

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Let's see some more photos of the whole car in its current state!

Here you go:

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

sorry for the late reply..... been a little busy... it cuts really fast and leaves a good "bite" for them coating. i use it mainly because it's faster but does eat my gun tips fast.

I'll have to get me some!

Here's the latest. Spent a few few hours out there on Sat. working on the exhaust.
The floor boards were covered with the rubber sealer:


Cleaned up and more of the kick-up to clear the exhaust tuckage:




Underside:






Tubes:


Up and over:


More tweaking:






Muffler tucked up into it's spot:

[65Pickup]

Looks good, nice to have you back at it. Building vicariously on 67-72 trucks is very affordable.

[76C10Stepside]

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

actually that's not true..... it's more expensive, sharper, and harder....

http://www.optaminerals.com/Abrasive...num-Oxide.html
"Aluminum oxide is the second-hardest mineral after diamond.

Oh, yeah, I forgot it's the raw mineral, not the metal! Duh. Didn't know it was near-diamond hard though!

[Jvsapp]

looking good FF. did you have to hammer that piece of original floor to make the bend?

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Oh, yeah, I forgot it's the raw mineral, not the metal! Duh. Didn't know it was near-diamond hard though!

me either. i knew it was hard, and cuts fast, but i didn't realize it was that hard. i changed out my blaster gun and using glass bead now(yes i know my post above says to not use it, but that's for the ceramic coating. gonna try with regular powder to see what happens.) amazing what a "quality" gun compared to a standard cheap gun will do. the glass bead cuts almost as fast as the aluminum oxide now. i'm scared to put the aluminum oxide back into my cabinet now. but the glass bead doesn't tear up my tips as fast so i'll stick to it for now. i paid $60 for the new gun, but now i need a bigger feed tube and hose to match. once i get those i'm sure it'll be really nice. maybe i'll try the walnut shell i got that didnt' really work years ago.

[Frizzle Fry]

Ok, that's enough. Start a thread about it!

[Jvsapp]

LOL! good to see that you're back on the ball

[thor]

Love the tucked exhaust! Now you are ready for a flat belly pan, perhaps with longitudinal "fins" to direct air so the car doesn't get wiggly at speed.

[watahyahknow]

i agree that most of us blue collar workers work way too hard for the money we get compared to the asskissers that are sitting upstairs in the office doing the "important" work keeping their chairs warm and their phones occupied , but i wouldnt want to trade with their job as i dont like the smell of ****

i actually got some good news for myself today i have been offered a year long workcontract with an option for longer the pay isnt awesome but its steady income every month and its eazy work

i seen a funny cartoon a while back of people of all colour and rishes walking along a street with baloons over their heads showing their monthly income and debt , the guy sitting on the sidewalk begging for money had the most income left after his montly debts where payed off