1975 Chevy SWB Fleetside

[RPOZ11]

I have a new Modine unit that is 454 4-row correct.
I will insttall that when I put the 75 front clip back onto it.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Ah good. Are you keeping the a/c I know a company that has a box that gets rid of the big a/c box and allows the system to work like it should
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[RPOZ11]

Thanx for the suggestion.

Was trying to keep the stock look on most of it.
Yes I am really looking at getting the A/C going on it.
I can't live without it these days.
Maybe I'm getting old!

I have a future interest of possibly adding tubular A-Arms

Also looked at bigger discs but I didn't like the McGaughy's I've read about.

Was also looking around for a 73-87 Stainless Steel exhaust system.

Not having good results on that either so far.
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[INSIDIOUS '86]

Stainless exhaust I kinda overrated. Pypes makes real nice exhaust systems for these though
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[RPOZ11]

I looked at their website but I couldn't get a good look at what they have for these
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[RPOZ11]

Hello all...

Not much to post at the moment.
My guy seems to keep taking on side jobs while doing the work on my truck.

I just keep pounding out the Camaro stuff as he creeps along.
Got my front 69 Camaro fenders redone; just based in primer until we hang them to finish them off.
Took in my door shells along with some Goodmark door skins to make new again. I did chem strip the door shells; they look like brand new when I dropped them off.
Hopefully the doors forward all the sheetmetal will be done and ready to do final work for paint.
Gonna start on the rear leafs, powder coat the rear 12-Bolt, then have it all assembled.
Then its off to powder coating the whole front subframe, core support, and inner fender wells.
Work Work Work!

Below is a few shots of the truck up on the lift.

I did compare trans crossmembers and the one in the SWB is different from the one in my C20.
What do I have installed on the SWB currently at this moment in the pics?

I think I will try to locate one that is the same as the C20.

[RPOZ11]

more pics...

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pics...

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496 in the frame

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Took some measurements of the C10 SWB crossmember mount positioning.

Decided to measure at the frame :
driver's side to passenger's side the center to center of the bolt holes.

That measurement came to 32".

So I used a tape measure on my 1972 C20 TH-400 crossmember.
Turns out my 72 and my 73 & up frame are the same there.

I will use the 72 TH-400 crossmember.

Kinda lucky I guess.

The one in the SWB in the pics above wraps around the outside of the driver's side frame rail.

SBC?
TH-350?
4-speed?
292 6 cylinder?
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[RPOZ11]

Hey all...

I know its been a while since I posted on my SWB C/10.
While my mechanic decided to take a 3 month siesta with it, I stayed plenty busy doing 3 more 496 builds; and some Camaro stuff.

Here is what is current:

The 496 is all in, trans cross member swapped out for the 72 unit.

I had the saddle tanks cleaned out.
Hope to have these installed shortly.

Today, I found a guy locally who had some rust free front fenders, with only 1 needing a small repair.

With that I obtained the correct front chrome bumper with the brackets.

I took his extra core support; but it's an 80 support.
However, it did have a nice upper stainless trim.
I will rob from that support any necessary hardware, etc for a correct core support.
I think I found the correct one here locally.
Are the headlight buckets special to 73-80's???

I purchased a 30 gallon gas tank from him that is the Blazer/Suburban unit.

I have all 3 gas tank shields.

What I dont have is is the 30 gallon gas tank support straps that hold the tank into the frame.

What are you folks using to secure it to the frame?
What gas line and gas filler system are you all using to make all 3 work?

In my 73 C/20, the prior guy installed the later model electric tank switching valve.

I am NOT a fan of that switch; and it has already failed me twice.

I chose a brass 3 way mechanical valve.
This should allow me to run all 3 tanks, eliminating any electrical failure issues.

I just need to work out the gas line routing, and get the dash fuel gauge to read correctly.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I am 2 weeks away from having the exhaust system done.
I needed the gas tanks installed in order to route the exhaust system properly.

Going with Flow Master 70's and if still too loud, then I will add some resonators between the tailpipe and the muffler to quiet her down.

[Tdubbyount]

I have the same issue on mine! My title claims its a '79 chevy, but the vin on the title says '76 GMC....I guess there was a cab swap years ago, but from the body work i did it appeared to be stock paint...CONFUSING!

[RPOZ11]

Well, looks I am continuing my search for the correct core support.
Local guy had 1 core support; 73-77 but it was for the 2-3-row radiator.
Support was clean but not the one I need.
I have another feeler going out that "might" give me my result.

So, I have L & R inner and outer fenders, 75 grill, 75 hood latch with support bracket, upper & lower stainless trim around the grill, headlight bezels, hood hinges, & lower valance panel.

Am I missing anything besides the hood and the core support to complete the front clip swap back to the 75 look?
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[RPOZ11]

I think these are the correct 75 grill latch and braces?

Are the side grill braces on the support 75 only or are they all the same?

[RPOZ11]

Been a slow process as I have mentioned before but more progress to report...

Got both GM fuel tanks installed.
Both were completely cleaned, and all new hoses and hose routing to make them work.
I went with a Mechanical Gas Switching Valve.
It was installed on the trans hump in front of the bottom of the bench seat.
It's a 2 tank switch.
When set in the middle, no gas will be taken from either tank.
Kind of a anti-theft thing. Couldnt go more than 1/2 a mile in this position but I will have to test it.
Fuel filters installed before the fuel pump and before the carb.
Installed petcock valves on both bottom water passage drains of the engine block.
I can do a complete flush of the cooling system now.

We also installed a new front windshiled and a new tinted rear slider window.
New seals were used.

This coming Friday, 5-31-13, I will be sending the truck down for the new exhaust system.
I am using the GM factory exhaust manifolds on this set-up.
The tubing will come off of the exhaust flanges as 2-1/4 then immediately go 2-1/2 all the way out to the back.
I am going to use FlowMaster 70 series mufflers.
I wanted a quiter ride with the same performance.
Going without the H-tube for now, just to see how it sounds and works without it.
I can always add it later.

Here is the new windows installed :

[RPOZ11]

I also started on the front GM sheetmetal swap-out back to the original 75 appearance.

I picked up the correct 73-75 BB A/C core support that was needed to make all of the front clip correct again.

I started taking apart the core support.
I have aready powder coated BLACK the top plate, top radiator support, radiator overflow bracket, and both headlight buckets.
Next I will do the hole radiator support panel.
Below are some pics of it apart before I take it down this coming Friday to be powder coated.
My plan is to powder coat the complete radiator support, inner fender wells, and the front bumper brackets.
Once all that is done I will rebuild the core support.
I bought an original Harrison 73-75 radiator and plan on recoring it reusing the Harrison tanks; but initially I will run the Modine unit.
After I get the core support completely rebuilt and ready to install onto the 75 frame, I will have the pair of almost rust free fenders prepped and base painted a color red I am still searching for.
I still need to find a MINT 73-75 Hood.

Pics...

[RPOZ11]

Got her running!

Again, Stock GM BB log manifolds, 2-1/4" as cast flanges.
We immediately flared out the 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" tubing after the flanges.
2-1/2" all the way out.
Flowmaster 70 mufflers, off-set inlets, drop outs behind the wheels, sort in the middle of the rear panel, with a slight angle back and down.
I didnt want it pointing directly at a car next to me nor did I want them straight back out.

Hope you like the sound.

Lets see if I can post short clip videos here...
I will do more video clips as we progress here.










FlowMaster 70's :

[RPOZ11]

So now, what we will do next is double check everything.
It's off to the alignment shop next week, then we can drive it, officially.
I drove down the street twice.
Good power on the first try, then adjusted the timing and idle mixtures, and then even more power.
Was more responsive after these adjustments.

Was really COOL to drop it in 3'rd gear with those 2.65 gears.
It just idled right on down the road.
Will need to hook up a tach to see what rpm range I get at 70 mph.
I am figuring around 1700 rpm's.
But we shall see.

I now have the whole front clip, minus the original wiring harness.
We'll see if I need to change it or not.
The Hood is mint and never been bent at the hood hinges.
The fenders are 90% perfect with nearly no rust.
Bumpers are now cores for rechroming and straightening.

Here is the 73-75 Hood I picked up along with extra fenders, bumpers (with brackets), lower pan, + misc small parts.

[RPOZ11]

Lower Pan...

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Next I will powder coat the front inner metal parts of the front clip then assemble it all.

After that I will get the front clip stripped and painted.

Going for a non-metallic darker red than what you see here.

Install the newer bench seat and leave the interior for last.

[RPOZ11]

Brought the truck back from the alignment shop as I wasnt happy with the previous work done to it.
So...
I am going to rip out the whole front suspension and go with these black tubular a-arms ;

Upper
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...TCA-UKB903.htm

Lower
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...TCA-LKB481.htm

Already purchased new BB coil springs.

I think this will solve all of my problems with the prior work done and offer a long lasting solution.

[RPOZ11]

A-arms being replaced...

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brake hose bracket...