Project Lazarus bringing a 72 SWB K10 back to life

[edgooch]

Rusty,
Your truck is going to be beautiful. Love the two tone paint! I've made progress on mine, with the engine/transmission/transfer case all installed. Transmission is hooked up and I am about start installing the ECM and wiring.

I have a question. What did you use for exhaust manifolds? I saw Larry's recommendation to use 70's era big block manifolds. I haven't been able to find any so I tried a pair of new supposedly factory spec reproductions ( made in China). They are poorly made and don't come close to fitting. Now I'm stumped. Any ideas?

[Rust_phoenix]

Merry Christmas Ed, the exhaust manifolds I used are indeed mid 70's the casting numbers are as follows RH or passenger side 353030 KY and LH or drivers side 3994045N The one thing I did do was relocate the LH knock sensor to stay away from the heat, there was a boss that I re-drilled and tapped to fit the sensor, you can see what I mean in these pictures

[Rust_phoenix]

More pics showing the knock sensor relocation to the left of the original spot

[Rust_phoenix]

Here is a link to a website with casting number information http://www.thecamaro.com/Decoding/Ch...ng_numbers.php

[edgooch]

Rusty,
Wow, your pictures are a huge help. This morning i will go out and do some measurements using your pictures as guide, but it appears that your engine is mounted higher in reference to the frame than mine. If I remember, you made a custom crossmember for the mounts. Did you conciously raise the engine? I used a modified xmember from DIY4wd and just assumed it was the right height. The shot below is that piece during fabrication. That may be my problem. I could probably figure out how to raise it. Do you know what the angle of your dirve line is?

Thanks very much!

[edgooch]

Here is the clearance that I have between exhaust ports and the frame. This picture shows me holding the stock 8.1 manifold up to the right side.

[Rust_phoenix]

Ed, I did raise the engine about 1" higher by re-drilling the mount plates on the DIY4X4 cross member, I also cut the lip that stuck up after raising it, and I moved the engine 2" forward of the original position on the frame, page #4 post #77 on this thread shows what I mean, I modified the trans cross member to keep the original driveline angle close, and I rotated the pinion and re- welded the mounts on the Dana 60 rear when I installed the 6" lift, if you are going stock height you probably wont have an issue, here are a couple of pics of the modified mounts.

[Rust_phoenix]

Ed, in addition, one thing that helped me find the sweet spot for the proper position of the engine, was to bolt on the exhaust manifolds and lower the engine down into the frame and carefully mark the position needed while still suspended by the hoist.

[edgooch]

Clearly, I missed this info on my review of your build. Duh.
Thanks so much. That will solve my exhaust issue and give me a little more diff clearance, which i need. I also moved the engine forward 2 inches.
Thanks!