A New teenage member!

[Blue/72]

Thanks guys! It's nice to see a few more teenagers on here working on these old trucks

[klwebb]

Yay more teenagers! I have yet to find another girl, it's hard being a female in a "mans" world of classic cars haha! Welcome! Check out my thread!

[Blue/72]

Originally Posted by klwebb

Yay more teenagers! I have yet to find another girl, it's hard being a female in a "mans" world of classic cars haha! Welcome! Check out my thread!

Yeah it would be good to get more teens and women on here. I'm slowly teaching my girlfriend about there trucks and now everytime she sees one she always points it out and the year of the truck. Makes me proud

[Blue/72]

Interior is out for under seat sub (Christmas present from parents) and cab paint. I removed the seat, floor mat and all the radio and speaker dash components, put POR15 on the floor and will put down either dynamat or boom mat down to help with road noise. Then when that is done the truck is going in to a local body shop to have the white on the upper cab redone as the caulking is needing redone so I will have the whole upper cab and top of the dash done.

[Blue/72]

Update: The truck has been at a local body shop for a few days now for some new paint and a few custom touches! I'm having them respray the upper while on the cab, new self leveling seam sealer, respray the passenger rocker, and shave the upper drip rail corner body line/seams so it all looks like 1 piece. All in I should be at around $400 plus a set of bucket seats I'm trading him. Really exited to get it back to install my brand new Precision door seals and windshield gasket, NOS arm rests, NOS cargo light, dynamat, sub and new floor mat! Here are a few pictures from today's visit

[Blue/72]

Passenger side

[Blue/72]

Body shot. Can you spy the other 72 c10 in the room?

[Blue/72]

Just about got all my parts ready for the truck when it comes home now! Lots of NOS and new parts to make her pretty

NOS parts: Iner grill clips, set of 4 door bumpers, antenna seal, brake pedal stop, glove box arm bumper, rear paint divider clips, cargo light lense and arm rests

New parts: Inner grill, precision windshield gasket, new precision push on door seals, floor mat, floor vent, rear paint divider trim, door panel seals, dynamat, sub/amp jack decal, core support decal, cargo light seal, chrome wiper arms and stainless wiper blades


Getting really anxious to get started again

[Blue/72]

Got the truck back and have been plugging away at it for about two days now. Fatmat is in, dash pad and dash back in, glass all in, new windshield, sub is 75% wired and new Precision push on door seals with NOS door bumpers. I had the passenger rocker repainted and body worked, roof repainted and all the cab seams on the drip rail smoothed, dash painted and new seam sealer installed. Next comes the new floor mat, stereo install and installing some more NOS goodies

[Blue/72]

Interior

[Blue/72]

All smoothed out

[Blue/72]

Rocker

[Blue/72]

And dash top

[72 Super]

Looks good! You have one clean truck.

Ray

[flashed]

Very nice ,looking great .

[TeamEstep]

Nice looking truck Wyatt! Say you mentioned in an earlier post about having a teenage category in your local car show. Have you been to the one in Sherwood? I believe there is a teenage category there. I've been to it the last two years (my kid brother's car club helps run it). I come down from the Tacoma WA area. My truck is still a work in progress so I go to see other peoples stuff. Maybe someday.

[stsalvage]

Originally Posted by Blue/72

New carb and coil to help the truck with start-ups and MPG

why do you have the Ford vacuum Not blocked off It will make that truck run a little crappy

[stsalvage]

Originally Posted by Blue/72

New carb and coil to help the truck with start-ups and MPG

your routing of the PVC line should not be in a T that should be all by its self remember that thing is to put Vacuum back into the crank Case.And those 2 vacuum ports are for the distributor.

But if you really want your truck to run better get rid of the Vacuum Advance you can have your distributor sponge and put the right counter weights in and not have to use Vacuum Advance most Race car''s don't use Vacuum Advance It really pulls power out of your truck.

But that ford one will really make your truck run really funny and make the timing a pain in the Butt you will never get the Jetting right on that carb Ford is way different on how the Vacuum is used

[stsalvage]

Originally Posted by Blue/72

I believe they are 10in wide

why dose your dad think the HEI distributors are point less I hated points Plus the HEI gives you a better burn for fuel mileage makes the truck have a little more pony's when your pulling a trailer.My one question is where is the Temp sending wire location at is it on the side of the drivers head.its not a good place for it wire always get way to hot next to the Exhaust.I use the 327 straight Thermostat housing and use the hole next to it for the screw in temp brass sending unit and use the 327 top hose to go to your top Radiator U know they used the engine bracket for the return spring on your carb.

Sense your not all factory with that Edalbrock carb and intake Best off use the bigger mouth on that Air cleaner your going to starve your engine for the much needed Air.

Remember back in 1966-72 these truck where all Smog car's and trucks they used all the stuff that the EPA wanted the auto makers to use to get the carbon foot print down.

I don't see you using that spark control wire harness with the siloid on the carb them thing are garbage.

But 1971 and some 72 had them they will really de tune your engine make it run like crap.I see you used the 1973 Corvette wires there the only wires that had the HEI in mind and the 1973 Corvette was the first year of the HEI but they still used the Ram horns so you can run your wires under your engine and throw The motor mounts for 1-3 2-4

[Blue/72]

Thanks for all of your "positive" comments stsalvage... My dad says HEI distributors are pointless as a joke, be cause they have no points, bu dum tss! I'm running a new HEI right now in fact. I have the PCV in a T because I need a line that runs to the charcoal canister for emissions. I called and discussed this with eddlebrock and the said this would be the bet way to run it. The other port is running the vac guage in the truck that's why it isn't blocked. I see no reason to change the air cleaner, I've run a different air cleaner and saw no change in power and I want to stay with the original style for this truck by running new parts but trying to hide them by making them look original. As for your "question" that is just another "that's not right" statement, the temp sending wireless an orignal style heat insulation cover around it no prevent t from melting from the heat. And yes I know that the throttle return spring is run like it is, it's connected to the factory inlet as the the orignal ones have a mounting tab for the spring. The plug wires are not Corvette wires, not sure what would make you think that, but they are just cut to fit wires that I cut so that I could run them so they are out of my way and give the engine a cleaner and less cluttered look. My truck does not run "crappy" or even poor, with the new distributed, rework of the vacuum lines, a quick time and a carb tune it is the best it has run in the 11 years I have had it. I see no reason to make any suggested change. The timing is not and has not been "a pain" with the vacuum lines run the way they are and the carb is jetted very well right now. Again, thanks for your "positive" comments and helpful "questions"