1967 step side build!

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Looks great. Thanks for including the detailed pictures of your filler neck. I am planning the exact same thing. I have a suburban filler neck and sheet metal or I can go with a filler neck and sheet metal from a 86 C-10 left hand side filler. What way do you think would look better.

Thank you. I personally like the look of the round filler door on our trucks. Early in this thread I think it was 67chevyredneck posted a pic of his truck with a later model fuel door. It looked good and was round. Let us know how it turns out.

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Looks great! Personally, I would have run the rust block all the way up the firewall to the bottom of the windshield. But if the DTM you used is good stuff and there was not surface rust in that area, you should be good.

Great progress on the cab! My son just got his cab in epoxy too this past weekend.

I think I’m going to take it up further. I have a vibrosolution sound deadening kit already that I’m going to run up to the window. Hey I was just up there in Longview yesterday getting paint samples for the truck. Small world.

[KevinK7]

All I can say is Wow!, ...and you say you're "not a pro". This is some AMAZING work for sure. No doubt these projects take time (especially with this little thing called 'life' along the way).
Truly incredible work and attention to detail. Kudos to you for continually pushing ahead, you should be proud, and as far as I'm concerned you're doing some serious "pro" work
Thanks for posting all the pics, looking forward to seeing this truck as it evolves.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

This thread needs a like button

[TXgearhead67]

Thanks fellas. Its a work in progress but were getting there.

[TXgearhead67]

I'm continuing my efforts of bringing this thread up to date. One of the first things I did when I started this truck was to build the rear end. I converted it to 5 lug axles, added a Eaton posi, and replaced all the bearings and seals. I used the existing 3:73 gears. I sand blasted the housing and rattle can primered and painted it. It looked good but didn't last. About 2 years after it was together I noticed rust starting to creep through the paint. So I dismantled the rear end and had it powder coated gloss black. Reassembled with a freshly powder coated silver rear end cover and SS ARP bolts.

[TXgearhead67]

I knew from the initial purchase of the '67 that I wanted fuel injection. The plan is to run a Holley Sniper. I bought my Boyds fuel tank with an Aeromotive 340 pump. I ran 3/8" SS hard line supply and return line. This was my first try at bending SS line. It's a little tricky. I broke my first tubing bender after the SS proved to tough for it. Replaced it with a Rigid brand dedicated 3/8" bender. It was a game changer, so much better. I bought a flare tool from Eastwood which I could've probably done without but the tool itself worked good. I only ended up making two flares in the whole system. I used Earls Ultra Pro flex PTFE hose and fittings where I needed flex. At the front of the frame I made a bracket to hold and terminate the hard line. I'm going to route flex line from Sniper to hard line. I also used SS line clamps and bolts with nylon lock nuts to secure to the frame.

[TXgearhead67]

The purist are going to hate me. I didn't want the E brake assembly hanging under the dash. So I got a E STOPP electric emergency brake box. You have a button that activates and deactivates the brake. I got the rear drum cables from Lokar. I think I'm going to hide the button in the glovebox.

[TXgearhead67]

I got the Flowmaster American Thunder 2 1/2" kit. It went on good and I thought the quality was good. I'm going to run them to exit under the rear bumper. Its got Super 44 mufflers and I hope with them exiting the back it wont be too loud. The only thing I didn't care for was the H pipe design. I just went straight from header collector back to mufflers. After the transmission is in for the final time I'm going to add a removable H pipe.

[TXgearhead67]

Some shots of the frame before I started body assembly.

[TXgearhead67]

The cab went on for the final time. I went back and forth on painting it off or on and finally decided to paint it on the frame. I was worried about getting everything back on straight after panel adjustment. I also used the engine lift to remove and install the cab. It worked very well.

[68Gold/white]

So Jason, are the Lokar brake cables specially made for this E-brake device? I noticed both cables there on that one side.
The thing I'd like most, is not having to worry about the routing of the cables, the cables and exhaust getting in the way of each other....

[TXgearhead67]

The cables are a universal fit for drums. They come way long and you cut them to the length you want. Their long enough I was able to route them on the frame and cross on the trailing arm bracket. Their a nice product. So is the E Stopp control. I seen it on Kindig Design website. It’s also going to double as a anti theft device. Who would look for a button to release the brakes? Lol I plan on putting a kill switch on the fuel side as well for theft.

[Jason Banks]

Looks amazing. I was looking for pictures of how people rant their fuel lines with a Boyd's tank the other day, and I couldn't find any. Thank for posting. I've been thinking about doing the power parking brake also.

Do your headers hang so low, you decided to not run the exhaust through the crossmember?

[TXgearhead67]

With the H pipe Flowmaster provides in the kit it’s made to go under the crossmember. With the aftermarket crossmember with exhaust provision I didn’t have the bends I needed to go up and through it. The headers were fine not to low or anything. In hindsight I should have just got a couple more bends and went through it. I think it’ll be ok. If when I get it out of the garage and see their too low I’ll fix it. Thanks for the response bud.

[cab4word67]

Just finished my 67 for its second life, my "Avatar" is its first 40years of life though it didn't receive the nice paint until 20 years ago. But it raised a family and drove back and forth to the bay area many times.
, went with Vision wheels

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by TXgearhead67

The cables are a universal fit for drums. They come way long and you cut them to the length you want. Their long enough I was able to route them on the frame and cross on the trailing arm bracket. Their a nice product. So is the E Stopp control. I seen it on Kindig Design website. It’s also going to double as a anti theft device. Who would look for a button to release the brakes? Lol I plan on putting a kill switch on the fuel side as well for theft.

I am liking this E Stopp device, and of course anything that will double as an anti-theft mechanism is a bonus. If Kindig Design is using it, it must be a good product. I have not seen him do anything 'cheap.

Thanks TXgearhead. BTW, I am a Texas native (born in Dallas) living in GA. I have been by Carthage many times. I love East Texas!

Cheers!

[TXgearhead67]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

Just finished my 67 for its second life, my "Avatar" is its first 40years of life though it didn't receive the nice paint until 20 years ago. But it raised a family and drove back and forth to the bay area many times.
, went with Vision wheels

That's a sweet ride. Did you cut and fab the hood yourself?

[TXgearhead67]

After I got the cab on it was time for panel fitment. I just thought rust repair sucked. LOL I've read many post on poor aftermarket panels but I thought surely there not that bad. I was so wrong. My original driver fender had major cancer on the front bottom and rotted on the rear bottom. Original passenger fender had a previously bad repair making it not worth using. The factory hood was in good shape but I wanted a cowl induction instead. Radiator support was rotted at the bottom. Driver inner fender was totally rotted on the front side. So I bought new to replace them. The doors bolted on good and gapped decent which was a relief after all I had cut out and replaced. The driver fender to door gap was overlapping at the bottom. The problem is that the fender is almost a quarter inch to long at the bottom. Passenger fender wasn't to bad but the shape was way off. Radiator support was good. I did have to slot a couple holes.

[TXgearhead67]

The biggest problem was the aftermarket hood. The fit was off everywhere. I tried and tried to make it work. I cut and welded the rear of the hood to get the cowl gap even and flush. The front had the wrong radius so it didn't match the fender slope. I tried cutting out the inner support to allow me room to pie cut and weld. I finally just give up on it. I'm sure someone can make it work but it just wasn't worth it for me. 68gold/white came thru and gave me not one but two original hoods. When I bolted the stock hood on it adjusted out in minutes. I'm using Eddie Motorsports hinges. I think I'm going to make someone a killer deal on aftermarket hood if somebody needs it.

[TXgearhead67]

Once I seen how good the factory hood fit it made me wonder about the original driver fender fit. So I swapped the aftermarket driver fender for the original. Bam almost perfect fit. The only problem was all the rust. I ended up cutting the new fender up for patch panels. It turned out good. I was committed to using the passenger fender since the old one was to far gone. It took a lot of sledge hammer and 2x4 work to get the shape close. I was pleasantly surprised how good the new driver inner fender fit. I was sure it was going to be junk but it wasn't.

[TXgearhead67]

Here's a couple random pics. I found this hood lift from Summit Racing for like $120. Well worth it, it makes life much easier. I have my grill hoops and headlight bezels at the chrome plater right now. I've got the good engine out and a junker sitting in the truck for the weight. I think were all caught up. I'm fine tuning panels right now before I start cutting and welding gaps. I've got a couple small things I want to do before I pull the bed for bodywork. My goal is too paint it this spring. We've already got some paint samples just looking for that perfect color. I'm going to try and post regularly but bare with me. thanks

[Trucknut57]

That is more awesome work, thanks for sharing your progress, wish I could move half that speed to get mine even close to the stage you are at.

[68Gold/white]

I had an older friend from church, he had a 67 C10 LWB. He had owned it since 1970. The pickup was immaculate! It was the original 1967 medium blue color. Man that thing stood out in a crowd! I’m leaning that direction on my 67.

[cab4word67]

Originally Posted by TXgearhead67

That's a sweet ride. Did you cut and fab the hood yourself?

Yes I did the tilt myself so 30 years ago. When it was lifted it was hard to find the small block under the hood without falling in.