My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

meanwhile on this Two Steps Forward One Step Back update, we afixed the new used Honda CR-V master cylinder to the BOSCH iBooster and attempted to bench bleed it on the truck

[CG]

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[Gregski]

Originally Posted by CG

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LOL, Exactly very MC Escher

[Gregski]

so here's the general idea and you is supposed to do this in a vice, with American style master cylinders, anyway that's where that clear line red fitting kit is from

[Gregski]

so learned that it's best to reroute the front brake lines to the front of the crossmember when you pull of a disc brake conversion so spent a few evening fandangling with that

nothing like cutting up brand new parts straight away

[Gregski]

and the other side

I did add rubber gromets in them through frame holes

[72 tigger]

Stopping power!

[Steeveedee]

That's a mighty tight bend in that hose. Is the spindle at the end of turn travel?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

That's a mighty tight bend in that hose. Is the spindle at the end of turn travel?

I hear you Steeveedee and was thinking of swapping for the C20 hosers but word on the street is they might be the same length

[Gregski]

so I had to scroll up in my own thread way up to post #72 to see what radiator I had and as it turns out it is a generic aftermarket Spectra Premium part #CU369 one that fits the truck but is not specifically for this truck, so it doesn't quite fit on the bottom, it is too thick if you will, being 2 core and all

so I done did some research and learned that a Squarebody aka 1973 and up single core will fit perfectly and the reason I tell you this is that it can be had for half the price of an exact specific 67-72 one

Murray Radiator part # 433161 $200 bones and you can get one like it for $120 on Rock Auto I just didn't have the patience to wait on it to arrive so I went to Oh' Really s

[zicc1835]

Good info TY

[Gregski]

so now we have reached the plumbing, heater hose size, coupler, adapter, reducer hell portion of the build, you see we in America like to design our radiators with the largest inlets and outlets known to men and women, and the electrical components (inverters, dc-dc converters, chargers, water pumpulators, and transmissionisters) all like to use small ones, more on this later

essentially what we face is that we can no longer plumb with radiator hoses ( yes 1-3/4" or 1-1/2 or my personal favorite 1-5/16" that's a nice and even 33 millimeter for you non Standardizer type) but instead must plumb with heater core hoses ( 3/4" and or 5/8" )

[Gregski]

Tezla electric water pump (yes with a "z") uses a 3/4" standard American heater hose

[Gregski]

it needs to attach to the radiator outlet which is lets just say way bigger ( 1-9/16ths for those of you keeping track at home)

[Gregski]

now the fun continues as the 3/4" hose from the Tezla water pump has to now mate with the 5/8" Lexus inverter inlet, joy

the inverter is arguably the most important metal box in the entire jigsaw puzzle as it convert DC direct current stored in the BMW batteries into AC alternating current which the Lexus motors consume inside of that unicorn of a transmission

[Gregski]

so back to fighting with that Honda CRV electric brake iBooster, the darn thing pulsates when the pedal is fully down, I just don't get it, I know it was designed to work with only disc brakes so maybe there aint enough flow

but I tried capping off the rear brake line at the master cylinder and pressing the pedal to only engage the front disc brakes, and the pedal still wiggles when fully down to the floor

I even tried by capping off both outlet ports on the master cylinder, still no dice, is it air?

[zicc1835]

Did I miss how you plan on heat defrost etc and cooling transmission just interested on how your planning that if it’s in a post pardon me please

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

Did I miss how you plan on heat defrost etc and cooling transmission just interested on how your planning that if it’s in a post pardon me please

excellent questions

no heat / defrost in Phase I of the implementation, I live in California (pronounced: Spring, Summer, Fall, repeat) however if I do decide to add heat it will be via an electric heater such as the one from the Chevy Volt

as far as cooling the transmission I am going for the belt and suspenders solution, first like any traditional automatic transmission it is plumbed to the radiator's transmission inner cooler that is integrated into the regular dime a dozen Chevy type radiator, then in addition to cooling the transmission fluid this transmission has water cooling built in, so those hoses also run to the regular car radiator (same one) but to the regular water inlets and outlets

all this gets recirculated via a Tesla Model S electric water pump

hope that hels

[Gregski]

and this is what a $150 bones worth of hose reducers, couplers, and thing majigs look like

Sourced from: Pegasus Auto Racing

[Gregski]

some trial fitment going on here, I do plan on cutting the 90° elbow shorter to bring the hose closer to the Inverter allowing me to use a hose clamp off of it to secure it so it's not all up in space like this (by the way that's a Tesla Model S water pompulator)

the Inverter is a metal box that changes DC Direct Current stored in the BMW batteries to AC Alternating Current consumed by the Lexus motors inside the transmission

[Gregski]

same on this radiator inlet hose, this is coming from the passenger side of the transmission and I hate that it has to run across the engine bay under the battery pack, wish my inlets and outlets on the radiator were on opposite sides (how could Genereal Motors not envision this back in 1967?)


this 90° downward elbow will also be shortened and brong over closer to nearly hug the radiator, this again is just some expensive brain storming

this hose will eventually not come out of the battery pack but run in front of it closer to the radiator

[Gregski]

yup, so I tried to cheap out on one adapter and it bit me, here I was trying to connect a 5/8 water pump hose to a 7/8-1 1/2" radiator reducer and no dice, so what you have to do is go 5/8 - 1" reducer to a 1"-1 1/2" reducer to the radiator, oh well this gives me a chance to order a 45° reducer instead of the straight one so there's that

[72 tigger]

I see a future in the plumbing industry for you

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

I see a future in the plumbing industry for you

ha, ha yup, that reminds me the proper radiator lower metal support brackets and rubbulators showed up

[396ci]

bump for you! any updates?