'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Frizzle Fry]

Other stuff I've been up to (while avoiding the paint prep )

-Wiper Motor/Trans Relocation-

The wipers' drive unit used to be located quite conspicuously on the driver's side inner fender under the bonnet (hood for 'mericans).


Since I've raised the inner fenders 1.5", and more importantly because it's super fugly, I've relocated it under the dash.

I used the EZ-Wiring Wiper Motor Kit which employs the same cable drive function. I actually bought only the drive unit with plans to use the rest of the original parts of the system:


First order of business was to set the new trans to the correct radius based on the original unit:


I found that the radius I needed was smaller than the shortest throw on the EZ unit:


Drill presses are good for these predicaments...


Next I needed the secure the drive cable to the slide mechanism of the new unit. Back to the drill press:


...and soldered together with the torch:


Reassembled (notice the motor orientation)


Motor clocked 90* (more holes drilled)


Complete assembly


Installed (now you can see why the motor clocking was necessary)




Those two funny-looking eye-bolts are not the primary mounts. The clamp around the motor is. The eye-bolts, which are only tacked in those pics, are my attempt at vibration and sound isolation. They provide lateral support only. The clamp is also semi-isolated via two layers of shrink-wrap and rubber washers sandwiching it at the stud. I went to these lengths because the noise during test runs was significantly louder when the unit touched the car.

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's one I finally got around to. The rear coilover towers needed one side each capped off to be -done-

Template:


Burned in:


Both sides done

[Frizzle Fry]

This one is just getting started. I'll post two pics and you'll get the idea:

[mcbassin]

Awesome work on the wiper setup.

[watahyahknow]

yeah it looks realy factory placed there
the electric motor of the setup is realy huge though
most wipermotors i see in european cars are about the size of a normal size coca cola can

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Awesome work on the wiper setup.

Thanks man. It's this type of job that seems so simple but takes way too much time...

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

yeah it looks realy factory placed there
the electric motor of the setup is realy huge though
most wipermotors i see in european cars are about the size of a normal size coca cola can

That's about the size of this motor. Your scale is off. This is a small car!

[thor]

Wiper motor relocation is slick. Too bad no one will see...wait...that's the idea.

[chevyrestoguy]

I love your ability to think outside the box, and then use your amazing fab skills to make it all work. I think what I like the most about this build is how subtle and integrated your mods are. Anybody can build something and just bolt it in. It takes a skilled craftsman to make each piece work and then make it all look like it came that way from the factory. I don't see a lot of "credit card purchases" on this build, but I do see a lot of "hot rod recycling" of used parts, and to me, that's what this hobby is sorely missing. That's why I enjoy this build so much.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by thor

Wiper motor relocation is slick. Too bad no one will see...wait...that's the idea.

I know man. So much stuff I do is that way; Unseen when finished. But that's ok. I know it's there, and so does anyone reading this

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I love your ability to think outside the box, and then use your amazing fab skills to make it all work. I think what I like the most about this build is how subtle and integrated your mods are. Anybody can build something and just bolt it in. It takes a skilled craftsman to make each piece work and then make it all look like it came that way from the factory. I don't see a lot of "credit card purchases" on this build, but I do see a lot of "hot rod recycling" of used parts, and to me, that's what this hobby is sorely missing. That's why I enjoy this build so much.

That's a very nice compliment. Thank you. You can find this kind of stuff on other builds too, you just have to know where to look. One consistent source of inspiration for me is build-threads.com But don't go there unless you have many hours to spend...

More subtle integration:

Rear Deck - Second Speaker Provision

Not only did this 66 Minx only have a spot for one rear deck speaker, it was apparently an optional upgrade because mine did not come with one installed

Since I had a spare Minx to pillage, this is one of the items donated to the cause.

Here's the factory rear deck with only one speaker provision as I showed earlier:


Relieved of one side to allow alignment of the new panel:


New panel upside down to allow alignment of the matching holes and scribe lines:


Prep for surgery:


Weapon of choice and result:


I like to use low angle illumination to reveal the panel surface alignment:


Buzzed in:


Dressing:




Sealed from the elements:


Before and after:

[VA72C10]

nice and subtle and super clean!

[Low Elco]

Nice! Do they make a speaker that fits that opening, or are you going to plate them and use rounds?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

nice and subtle and super clean!

Thanks brotha

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Nice! Do they make a speaker that fits that opening, or are you going to plate them and use rounds?
Posted via Mobile Device

That would be a minor oversight if they didn't Yes, the opening is 5x7. Plenty of options in that size.

[NONHOG]

[QUOTE=Frizzle Fry;6173280]


One consistent source of inspiration for me is build-threads.com But don't go there unless you have many hours to spend...

Oh man! Thanks a lot! Another site to interfere with me getting stuff done.

[72BlckButy]

Awesome work!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

Oh man! Thanks a lot! Another site to interfere with me getting stuff done.

Can't say you weren't warned

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Awesome work!

Thanks Nate

Everyone seems to like the new seats...


Preliminary mock-up (detailed pics later)

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Buzzed in:


Dressing:

A couple of quick questions if you don't mind....?

When you do the fitment for a patch like this do you match the patch tightly to the opening, or do you leave a small gap around the perimeter (like the saw blade's width)?? It appears that you run with no gap at all which surprises me... it seems like that might encourage warpage or at least incomplete penetration of the weld to the back side? Most of my patches are cut with a fiber cutoff wheel which is .040" thick, and that ends up being my gap between my parts. I get pretty good results, but it's definitely hard to "bridge" the weld across the two panels to fill that small gap. I get good penetration to the other side and when I'm done (moving around a lot and allowing for lots of cooling) the results seem good with no warpage. It seems like you might have an easier way to accomplish the same thing, and I'm always looking for better methods to experiment with.

What sort of product do you use for the final dressing of the welds? Roloc "green" discs? Roloc crimson discs? The end result is gorgeous with no waviness or signs of gouging or other imperfections... I'd love to know the secret to getting an end-result like that!


Excellent work as always... I've enjoyed this thread from the very beginning.

-G

[sparkydog]

An acoustic bass guitar - not something you see everyday.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by -Greg72

When you do the fitment for a patch like this do you match the patch tightly to the opening, or do you leave a small gap around the perimeter (like the saw blade's width)??

This one had a thin body saw (accepts jigsaw blades) gap all the way around. I've done them with tight fitment and/or points touching and you're right, you do run a higher risk of warpage on a flat panel. If I see it start to warp I relief cut that spot and realign it. Penetration has never been an issue, with or without a gap. I use .023 or .030 on sheetmetal (actually prefer .030).

Originally Posted by -Greg72

What sort of product do you use for the final dressing of the welds? Roloc "green" discs? Roloc crimson discs?

I only recently started using red rolocs here and there, mostly for tight locations. I've been able to achieve these results with the following procedure:

• Grind 95% down to near surface with 4.5" grinding disc
• Blend to surface with flap disc (must hit weld from both sides)
• File to check for high/low spots
• Hammer/dolly
• DA with 60-100 grit

I've played with the grind and planish each tack as you go method, but haven't really found it necessary.

Originally Posted by -Greg72

Excellent work as always... I've enjoyed this thread from the very beginning.
-G

It's been a loooong haul. Thanks for sticking with me and my project ADD

Originally Posted by sparkydog

An acoustic bass guitar - not something you see everyday.

I was wondering if anyone would catch that. Good eye.

[mcbassin]

Awesome metal work as always!

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I've done them with tight fitment and/or points touching and you're right, you do run a higher risk of warpage on a flat panel. If I see it start to warp I relief cut that spot and realign it. Penetration has never been an issue, with or without a gap. I use .023 or .030 on sheetmetal (actually prefer .030).

Just curious, what would cause the risk of warpage by no gap versus .030" gap around the perimeter? I have always tried to get my patches to fit as tight as possible. But, I have also had some minor warpage issues, nothing major usually. I have had the same kind of warpage issues with a gap too.
I just figured it was because I got the panel too hot and caused the warping. BTW, I have never had any penetration issues with my mig or tig with no gap.

thanks for all the detailed explainations.

[Frizzle Fry]

I can only guess at the mechanics behind it. It may be that when you tack next to the gapless point the joint is pulled tighter as the weld shrinks and the gapless area has no where to go but lateral. Or maybe a small expansion area is needed. Not sure. I can only speak from experience. While doing the Tahoe roof, for example, gapless points along that long and relatively flat joint wanted to bow up. Only when I opened them with a cutoff wheel did they cooperate.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I can only guess at the mechanics behind it. It may be that when you tack next to the gapless point the joint is pulled tighter as the weld shrinks and the gapless area has no where to go but lateral. Or maybe a small expansion area is needed. Not sure. I can only speak from experience. While doing the Tahoe roof, for example, gapless points along that long and relatively flat joint wanted to bow up. Only when I opened them with a cutoff wheel did they cooperate.

This makes sense. I may have to start making a little gap on my patches next time. Thanks. Looking forward to the Tahoe build resuming one of these days......

[MP&C]

Awesome build with amazing attention to detail..

My nephew has an S2000, that drivetrain in there will make one bad ass daily driver...

[Frizzle Fry]

I'm a full-on believer in this drivetrain after driving it around for a week. Performance was beyond all expectations!

Need a little help here guys. Gathering the last few items needed (that I'm currently aware of). Need to replace the trim clips. They are a cup washer style attached via pop-rivet. Didn't realize they are apparently made of unobtanium based on the price.


Anyone know of a US supplier for these? That site says they are also used for Austin Mini Cooper 'S', Riley Elf, and Wolseley Hornet.

Alternative suggestions welcome.

[chevyrestoguy]

Wow, very nice work on the speaker!

Again, so nicely done that it appears that the factory put it there in 1966. I love that kind of attention to detail!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I'm a full-on believer in this drivetrain after driving it around for a week. Performance was beyond all expectations!

Need a little help here guys. Gathering the last few items needed (that I'm currently aware of). Need to replace the trim clips.
Anyone know of a US supplier for these? That site says they are also used for Austin Mini Cooper 'S', Riley Elf, and Wolseley Hornet.

Alternative suggestions welcome.

Do you have one of these rivets? I could probably make the business end of these on the cnc lathe if I had a sample to revers engineer. Then you could just put a standard rivet shaft in it. Just a thought.