Mcgaughys Big Brake Kit

[DKN]

I just wanted to know if these worked good. My experiance is telling me that these should have too much rear brake. So far it seams like it works really well with the MCPV1 master cylinder.
Our brake kits with hard/long life tires typicaly stop a truck from 60mph between 130ft and 120ft; with better tires we get stops approaching 110ft. If CPP does make a 13" rear kit we do not want to upset the balance and end up with longer stopping distances. I was just asking so I can get a little more information before we move forward.

Thanks for the responses.

Sincerly, Danny Nix
CPP

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by DKN

.... If CPP does make a 13" rear kit we do not want to upset the balance and end up with longer stopping distances. I was just asking so I can get a little more information before we move forward....

Do you need a test pilot? If so, I'm in....

[87chevy.com]

I need to measure out what my truck stops at.. that sucker stops hard and fast. The front brakes will lock up before the rears will (which is desired) when trying to stop on the dime. Its a dang good setup in my opinion, and I posted some numbers in my original thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=392474

Originally Posted by 87chevy.com

Finally got some numbers... with hp tuners hooked up to the truck, and scanning the run, Ive got some stoping numbers..
60-0 = 5.249
50-0 = 4.540
45-0 = 3.562
35-0 = 3.245

These were calculated from the time bar on the bottom oh HPtuners. The front wheels definatly locked, I believe the rears didnt... but not sure. some not sure which when the truck slid, at lower speeds, I let up and re applied. These numbers are off of the VSS rather than distance.... which will be my next stage... I will have some cones at a certian mark and go at various speeds and record the distance traveled. I think that might be more accurate. The VSS would read 0mph if the trucks wheels are locked up... either way... heres some numbers fresh off the scanner...
clint

I didnt think to get a tape measure measurement which is more accurate than the VSS speed. The front brakes on my truck are bone stock (11.5") front... oreilly severe duty pads, and the rears stock junk yard brakes off of an 02 new dodge 1/2 ton (13.8") rears. So in this application, the rears are retarded big compared to the fronts. Im using the stock brake system (booster, M/C and prop valve).

I started a new thread to compliment the McGaughys front Corvette Rotor and Silverado truck calipers.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415021

clint

[CMC_86]

How much can the turned down axle flanges hold up to? I have the front/rear mcgaughys brake kits, but I'm not sure if I should turn my current flanges down or look for a different kit.

[nlped]

I have done my stock rear axles, and I have used the '76 Blazer that the system is installed on to pull several loaded trailers, including a car trailer with my '88 2wd Suburban loaded on it. The set up didn't require much be removed at all, just enough to fit inside the rotor hat, the material from the center hub has no impact on the axles strength. There was still plenty remaining after the machine work was completed.

I would highly recommend the kit, as my Blazer now stops like a sports car!!!

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by nlped

I have done my stock rear axles, and I have used the '76 Blazer that the system is installed on to pull several loaded trailers, including a car trailer with my '88 2wd Suburban loaded on it. The set up didn't require much be removed at all, just enough to fit inside the rotor hat, the material from the center hub has no impact on the axles strength. There was still plenty remaining after the machine work was completed.

I would highly recommend the kit, as my Blazer now stops like a sports car!!!

Hey npled would you mind posting a pic of how you did your prop valve/mc? Also i remember you mentioning that you weren't getting the stopping results you were expecting. What ended up being the problem?

[nlped]

Originally Posted by c10seconds

Hey npled would you mind posting a pic of how you did your prop valve/mc? Also i remember you mentioning that you weren't getting the stopping results you were expecting. What ended up being the problem?

Sure can...Here's a link to the one I used with a picture. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...cks/MCPVS4.htm

And, my primary issue ended up just being a bad o.e. proportioning valve. I had gutted it to remove the rear brake pressure control so that the new one would be in control. I redid some lines just to bypass the o.e. p/v and rebleed the system, and now it stops like a racecar compared to when it was stock!!!

I am actually in the process of relocating the CPP p/v into the o.e. location so I can do away with the original one. I am also replacing all of the o.e. lines with S/S from inlinetube.com... great company to work with! I take that last statement back...rip off artists!!!

[c10seconds]

Originally Posted by nlped

Sure can...Here's a link to the one I used with a picture. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...cks/MCPVS4.htm

And, my primary issue ended up just being a bad o.e. proportioning valve. I had gutted it to remove the rear brake pressure control so that the new one would be in control. I redid some lines just to bypass the o.e. p/v and rebleed the system, and now it stops like a racecar compared to when it was stock!!!

I am actually in the process of relocating the CPP p/v into the o.e. location so I can do away with the original one. I am also replacing all of the o.e. lines with S/S from inlinetube.com... great company to work with! I take that last statement back...rip off artists!!!

Lol! I was just about to look them up until i noticed the edit.

Glad you got it all squared away. I didn't have my front kit on long enough to really test them out the way i wanted to. Darnit!

[nlped]

Well, I finally replaced all of the o.e. brake hard lines with s/s ones. I also put the disc/disc p/v from CPP in the stock location so I could do away with the gutted stock p/v. Less moving parts should mean less items to fail . So now the entire braking system is new except for the pedal .

I took it out and really drove it a good bit yesterday, and it stops like a champ, but the pedal is still a little lower than I would like. I have bled and bled the system and have no air in the lines, M/C, or p/v. It's almost like the push rod from the Brake Booster into the Corvette M/C (A new Booster, new CPP Corvette M/C w/ a strange looking "bullet" piece as the pushrod extention) may be a bit too short and it isn't engaging right off. Ever heard of this?

Oh, and N2Trux, the parking brake cables they send with the kit are for a pickup and are a bit too short for the Blazer. I am going to move the stock parking brake bracket back so the cables will work properly. I am thinking this could be my problem with the pedal as well, as the parking brake adjustment is responsible for the rear brake "air gap". I'll work on this one night this week.

I added the pics just to show the existing set up. The m/c has since been sanded and painted, so it looks way better than this pic.

[andrewmp6]

Yeah they dropped a nickle lol http://www.kplinks.com/product.php?p...&cat=95&page=1

[c10seconds]

Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[BurlyCrew]

Have these McGaughys Front and Rear kits improved over the years since these problems? Rear problems are we talking about stock axles or aftermarket axles?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by BurlyCrew

Have these McGaughys Front and Rear kits improved over the years since these problems? Rear problems are we talking about stock axles or aftermarket axles?

We stopped selling them. Seems there has been much better success with the CPP 13" brake kit. It's a little more money but less headache in the end.

[BurlyCrew]

Ok thanks for the info, thought the price was too good to be true and any good, LOL

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by BurlyCrew

Ok thanks for the info, thought the price was too good to be true and any good, LOL

It was a really good price for the kit... the front is an easy install, but the rear required more work.

The main problem we stopped selling them was due to their backorder. They didn't know when they would have more, and after waiting several months with no firm delivery time we had to cancel orders and refund money.

Nate

[BurlyCrew]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

It was a really good price for the kit... the front is an easy install, but the rear required more work.

The main problem we stopped selling them was due to their backorder. They didn't know when they would have more, and after waiting several months with no firm delivery time we had to cancel orders and refund money.

Nate

Thanks for the info, so the rear kits you did install were they stock axles or aftermarket that caused problems? what brand, etc..??

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by BurlyCrew

Thanks for the info, so the rear kits you did install were they stock axles or aftermarket that caused problems? what brand, etc..??

Wether you use stock axles or aftermarket they need to be machined so that the rotor fits over the outer flange.

Nate

[BurlyCrew]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

Wether you use stock axles or aftermarket they need to be machined so that the rotor fits over the outer flange.

Nate

Okay thank you....

[C10_ustacould]

I installed a CPP rear kit and I was impressed with how complete it was and the ease of installation. If CPP made a true 13" Front and 13" Rear kit I would be all over it, but there kit is 13"/12". I just can't deal with the lack of uniformity. Damn you OCD!! I intend to use the Wilwood 14" front and rear kits with their 7/8" bore master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve on my '71 project.

[BurlyCrew]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

I installed a CPP rear kit and I was impressed with how complete it was and the ease of installation. If CPP made a true 13" Front and 13" Rear kit I would be all over it, but there kit is 13"/12". I just can't deal with the lack of uniformity. Damn you OCD!! I intend to use the Wilwood 14" front and rear kits with their 7/8" bore master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve on my '71 project.

Yeah I would definitely want a matching size front and rear that isn't overkill price like wilwoods are, hmmmm I guess I can deal with getting some axles machined down....

[stickelspeed]

Does anyone know if the McGauphys caliper and hub (from their 13" kit) will work with CPP's modular spindle and caliper bracket?

I need to narrow my track width and it would be great if that didn't require replacing my brakes as well.