Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[tmoble]

check the charge voltage, with the engine running. See what it goes up to with increased RPM.

That shroud install is really not bad at all. I could live with that on a DD truck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just an update (mostly for myself I guess). Yesterday morning I was thinking, "I've gotta call the shop & tell 'em about the charging issue". 30 minutes later the shop CALLS ME(!) to ask if I'd driven the truck over the weekend? Is all well? Do I have any questions? I was surprised and very pleased. That's customer service in my book. I related the charging issue and he asked me to drop it off today for him to check it out further. No word on what; if anything, they'll do to offset the damage to my new valve covers. If it's a voltage regulator issue that didn't show itself after they rebuilt the generator I can't say much. Afterall. it's likely a 50+ year old regulator. But I told him I was really unhappy about the damage to the valve covers....so we'll see.

Unrelated: I dropped a couple hundred $$ at The Car & Truck Shop in Orange, Ca yesterday. I went in just for the braided tail light wire covers to finish up my bumper installation project and ended up buying window cranks & door handles, vent handles, vent glass & rubber, vent rivet kit, door panel screws, dome light assembly. Obviously, I'm getting ready to do some improvements in the interior and I got carried away. Oh well. Pic's coming as the work progresses.

[Daze57]

just make sure you clean your vent window frames real well and use dishwater soap and water to slide the new rubber on - makes a huge difference.- also when you do the rivits on the wing window -make sure the rivits are squared up nice and straight - if ya bang them in crooked ya may have to do it over -- been der done dat

[hsdropout]

Danny Boy, I like your truck, what you've done and mostly you are getting to drive it. That is what I was mostly looking for but......... My '59 is in pieces (try not to go there if you can help it) kind of hung up on primer/paint issues before i keep going too much further. I would like to get the cab shaped up (not to bad as far as rust, etc.) and back on refurbed frame and then start hookup of motor, tranny, wiring etc.

I was wondering what type of primer you have been using....looks kind of grayish green?

Gotta fix my cracked steering wheel too.

Again, it's great that you get to drive it and work on it.
Lucky find on that one!

Thanks, High Speed Dropout

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Daze57

just make sure you clean your vent window frames real well and use dishwater soap and water to slide the new rubber on - makes a huge difference...

Thanks for the head's up. I haven't even looked at the vents very close so I have no idea how the new rubber goes on. Didn't THINK it "slid" onto anything...but I'll definitely study on it closely before I start. I've been looking for a detailed thread on the subject for Task Force trucks but so far nothing.

On my voltage regulator, I went to the shop today and they installed a new one. My old one had been charging fine before it left the shop but by the time they checked it today it was charging up to 16 volts!!! They had to adjust the new one several times to get it to charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts once the cover was put back on. I'm driving it a week and will take it back in for a check next week. They're not charging me anything.

hsdropout, The primer is rattle can Duplicolor "Self Etching" - yeah right. It's temporary. Just getting it one color and protecting it (to a degree) while I get it like I want it mechanically.

[tmoble]

yep, installing the cover changes the charge voltage. Seems they're a little touchy.

[Dan in Pasadena]

We discussed doing a changeover to an alternator - which I WILL do at some point but the short term problem with that is I have Camel hump 327 heads on my engine with no holes in the front of them. So bracketry would require fabrication OR the shop knew of an aftermarket place selling a kit for $169. But a one wire chrome alternator is another $95, plus labor...you get the drift. Too much for right now when I really have no need of the additional capacity. Later when I put in AC, etc. it'll make more sense.
Posted via Mobile Device

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

We discussed doing a changeover to an alternator - which I WILL do at some point but the short term problem with that is I have Camel hump 327 heads on my engine with no holes in the front of them. So bracketry would require fabrication OR the shop knew of an aftermarket place selling a kit for $169. But a one wire chrome alternator is another $95, plus labor...you get the drift. Too much for right now when I really have no need of the additional capacity. Later when I put in AC, etc. it'll make more sense.
Posted via Mobile Device

dan,
im getting ready to switch my alternator from the passengers side to the drivers side so when i get my a/c the compressor will be on the passengers side, for a much cleaner look.
although my heads have tapped holes in them, i just got some brackets from summit for a 1967 camaro 327. the main bracket utilizes one bolt from the upper drivers side water pump bolt, and also bolts to the tapped hole in the intake manifold, and another bracket system that bolts to the front two exhaust manifold bolts. no need for tapped holes in your heads.... just a thought.. here is what im talking about.
here are the 3 brackets i purchased...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4015/?rtype=10

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4050/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4051/

when i do my install i will post pics, hopefully in the coming weeks.

leonard

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wow Leonard, That is SUPER helpful to me...and CHEAP too compared to...well...anything but especially compared to the $169 "kit" I was quoted by a supplier to my shop. Can't thank you enough.

I looked at the links and they look very good but they SEEM to say you must use parts G4049, G4050 & G4051 together. But you sent links to p/n G4015 - which is a much nicer looking bracket than the 4049. Are you sure those three p/n's you linked are the right combo? I'm definitely buying whichever combo is the right one. Again, thanks!

[57 3100]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Wow Leonard, That is SUPER helpful to me...and CHEAP too compared to...well...anything but especially compared to the $169 "kit" I was quoted by a supplier to my shop. Can't thank you enough.

I looked at the links and they look very good but they SEEM to say you must use parts G4049, G4050 & G4051 together. But you sent links to p/n G4015 - which is a much nicer looking bracket than the 4049. Are you sure those three p/n's you linked are the right combo? I'm definitely buying whichever combo is the right one. Again, thanks!

hello dan..... im 99% sure the 4015 will work just as the 4049 bracket, i like it since it has two mounting points and is stronger. i SHOULD be digging into it this weekend, and if i do i will let you know. and yes, its a lot cheaper than those fancy billet bracket setup's,

leonard

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 57 3100

....and yes, its a lot cheaper than those fancy billet bracket setup's,

leonard

Agreed and much better looking in my opinion. More "correct looking" for our trucks or at least the look I'm going for...and apparently you're going for.

If you can, post some pictures and let me know if its really a straight forward bolt in, or if mods are required to align the pulleys, etc. I'd hate to have to grind on the chrome.

[Daze57]

Dan

on the vent frames; when ya get to them - if the rubber around the frame was like mine - you may have to ''chip'' it out with a small chisel - take your time - after that many years in the track - the rubber gets v v hard and brittle.
i used a small screwdriver and broke it up into pieces then with the ol; WD - 40 i kinda moved it along till i got it out ;
douse the new rubber real good and then it will go in a lot easier - if ya run into probs.
i'll do all i can to help ya thru it - my first set took me 3 hours - next set i did too 30 minutes --

[Daze57]

by the way great job you are doin on your truck - keep up the good work !

[Dan in Pasadena]

Daze57, Thanks so much for the kind words. I'd love to tear it all apart and blast each piece, but I simply don't room and I wonder if I'd stay motivated if I couldn't drive it for months/years. But I admire the guys that do that very much.

My vent rubber is rock hard and chunks have already broken away. Plus, safety glass of those days is 2 ply and has delaminated - nasty, yellow-brown bubbles between the layers - ugh! I bought new vent glass. While its all apart I'll paint the frames gloss black (we'll see, my OCD may kick in and I'll buy chrome!). Once I get into it, I think I'll see what you mean about the way it "slides" into place. Are you recommending WD-40 or dishwashing soap to slide it? Anyone else have a suggestion for the best lube to use for this purpose. Is there some material - tape, rubber, bedding of some kind - that goes between the vent glass and the frame it rides in?

Last night I pulled the sheet metal in front of the radiator, sanded, primed, painted semi gloss Rustoleum black. Did some of the inner fenders too. WIre wheeled the latch and used Rusto brite mettalic on it. "While I was in there" I sanded/painted some of the green primer around the edges in preparation for more green later. Once you start making anything look good, the rest looks SO bad!

Bit by bit fellas, bit by bit!

EDIT: PS: Pic's coming tonight; I finally bought some batteries for my camera.

[tmoble]

Yes, there's a window tape product available from the usual suspect vendors. Did you see the pics and write-up I did on this?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by tmoble

...Did you see the pics and write-up I did on this?

No, but I'd REALLY like to. Pictures make things so much easier. At least they do for me....guess I'm a little slow that way

Do you have a link?

[tmoble]

It may have been on that "other" site. I'll have to dig it up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Not sure which "other" site you're referring to but I'd really like any info you can provide. Maybe drop me a PM?

[tmoble]

http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64122

the windwings are done. One door glass is done, I'll get some pics of the process when I do the other. Won't be tonight though, going to a ball game.

[Dan in Pasadena]

You just HAD to show me the chromed window frames, huh?

Now I'm REALLY going to want to do that. Any reason why you had yours chromed over buying already-chromed ones? I assume worries about the quality of aftermarket repro's? Can I ask what it cost you to have them done? It's hard to find good chromers is California because of the environmental restrictions.

Anyway, thanks for this. Did you end up using some kind of oil (which kind of you did?). Re-reading it, it sounded like once you corrected the frame spread the glass stuck, end of story(?) I'll have to go looking for some of that tape. Thanks again, Dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, as promised here are some gratuitous pic's of recent (minor) work on my truck.

The shop put in a new voltage regulator

(If I'd known about 57 3100's Summit links I'd have an alternator instead-DOH!), which made the horn relay above it look even worse than it already did with crusty rust. I decided to remove it, wire wheel it and paint gloss black to sorta match the new regulator.

Then, with that removed I figured I should pull both off to paint the firewall behind...and of course that led to painting other areas:

Cleaned up the terminals on the ballast resistor too and painted that general corner of the engine compartment. Yes, gotta pull the hinge and clean/paint it too. Should I use the brite silver or black? More to come of course.


Inner fender well sanded/painted Rustoleum Pro semi gloss black (Gotta do something about the exposed wiring):


What's this called? The sheet metal above the grill:


Which caused me to clean up the latch mechanism:

[Kim57]

Dan
Is this the piece you mean?
Kim
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=URS5557

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yup, that's it. Same as picture #3 above. I largely stripped mine using a wire wheel and a sander but not perfectly. Once I get my sandblaster working I'll go back and probably redo it. But it definitely looks a hella better than it did before.

[Pop's C-10]

Paint tha hinges to match tha hood latch

[Dan in Pasadena]

Under side of the hood will PROBABLY be semi gloss black like the inner fenders. If so, then yes I agree. If I end up painting it green primer like the outside of the body I think I'll still paint the hinges black. I'd thought of doing them in silver...but why bring attention to them? Afterall, its not liek I spent the money to have them chromed.

Thanks for the input. Others?