72 K20 been parked for 31 years!!

[Meatman]

Whats cam specs? Good choice on Vortec heads.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I wouldn't waste my time with the heat riser either way. Who's going to riducule the truck if it isn't there? I'd try to use the best flowing manifolds you can get. I know you want it to look stock, but some times stock or near stock just won't work in a performance set up like you're going with.

My goal is for total stock look with improvements on internals that can't bee seen. With the parts i have so far, only a trained eye would notice the one exception of the vortec heads. I may get the heat stove to work with the one 2.5" vette style. I'm still thinking and researching on this.

Originally Posted by litew8

Sorry Ryan, the Machinest question was directed @ Vintage. The exhaust manifolds/headers - I don't think it's a measurable difference for casual driving.

Machine work was done at TPS in Chaska, MN. The engine builder who hooked me up with the parts is from Wall lake, IA. PM me if you want his contact info, he doesn't have alot of machines yet but he knows how to put engines together. He is a close friend of my uncles. Your point about the casual driving is what I am also wondering.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Looks like a great bunch of High $$$ parts you have stacked up there!

I was able to get a pretty good deal on the parts since it was through my uncles friend who is an engine builder. Basically told him my goals and budget and he recommended best use of money to get there. Budget was $2200 for all engine components not including machine work. I think i got a pretty good value since roller cam conversions alone were $1000 or so from places like Summit.

Originally Posted by Meatman

Whats cam specs? Good choice on Vortec heads.

Cam was selected for smooth idle while maximizing torque in midrange for towing. I'll have to look at spec sheet

Good comments guys, keep them coming.

[Dieselwrencher]

The roller cam set up alone will make this a great driver! Totally different throttle response IMO.

[Vintage Windmills]

It finally made it and everything is correct. Taking my state 12 weeks these days to issue these. Check it out

[VA72C10]

Cool!

[hgs_notes]

I transferred the title of my daughters car to my name before christmas and still no title. I did get a plate renewal for it the other day though, still in her name of course.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I transferred the title of my daughters car to my name before christmas and still no title. I did get a plate renewal for it the other day though, still in her name of course.

Mike, I did the transfer for this one about Nov 25th and it just showed up on Tuesday so figure 12-13 weeks.

[Dieselwrencher]

Geez, that is crazy. But then again your state's government is all jacked lately any how. Good luck with it guys! (Don't worry, our state is doing all kinds of weird crap and we're right in the crapper with ya.)

[bmfm64]

3 months for a title? That's crazy! I usually get mine in 3-4 weeks.

[Vintage Windmills]

Checked both sets of compression rings for end gap. They are good. I hope I don't need to do the oil rings they are a pain to get off.

Finally convinced myself I could do the rod install using the heating method. I searched the web and couldn't find much info about it except "take to a shop and let them do it with a rod heater. Also there are fancy jigs out there but it just didn't make sense why they would be required. I suppose they are just quicker to setup and more convenient. What I did was measure the cross play of the rod in the piston, divide that by 2, subtract from that the piston width - pin length. I then selected two steel washers equal to this within a few thousandths of an inch. Then I just clamp a little straight piece on. I then used a plumbers torch since rod heaters are basically that and these torches are pretty weak so its hard to overheat. I did read that you want to heat until the rod turns color slightly under the pin boss. I timed the first one with a stopwatch and then heated the rest the same amount. This all worked like a charm, glad I did it myself. Its more fun than taking it somewhere and I know the pins are well centered and not mixed up after weight matching. I even made a video since there wasn't anything i could find on youtube with such basic tools. Here it is:

Installing connecting rods using heat -...

The video is pretty boring since its heating for a couple minutes. Fast forward to 3 minutes after watching the first minute. I need to learn how to edit videos.

[hgs_notes]

Pretty soon you'll fill that shed up with machine tools and be an engine builder. Nice job from a kindred DIYer.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Meatman

Whats cam specs? Good choice on Vortec heads.

Cam is a comp cams 12-412-8 http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=157&sb=2
Here is a dyno run but they had dart heads so I don't know if I will even be close to this:
http://www.compcams.com/technical/Dy...4HR-10_001.asp

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Pretty soon you'll fill that shed up with machine tools and be an engine builder. Nice job from a kindred DIYer.

Thanks Mike, Not a bad idea but someday I hope to work for myself on something else- would like to start a company based on specialty equipment I've got concepts of.

[Vintage Windmills]

Finished checking all dimensions on crank, bearings, pistons, bores, rods, ring gaps, etc before installing the rotating assembly. It sure took awhile and I suppose thats why many people probably skip this step. I really didn't alter anything because of it but if something was off I would have been glad I took the time to do it. All fits really nice and the only thing I adjusted was shaving 0.010" off the oil ring spacers (what I call the waffle ring). It was a little more snug than needed. Here are some pics

First pic I am checking side to side clearances by looking at assembly lube.

Second pic checking crank end play. Ended up being 0.007 before installing the rear main cap and 0.0035 after so that should be good. I tapped the shaft back and forth as recommended to align the rear main bearing halves prior to tightening rear main cap. All mains torqued to 70ft lbs as the machine shop did when doing machine work.

I tightened and torqued all the rod bolts 4x per Eagle's instructions. It work hardens the bolts some I guess.

Last pic I checked the deck height. Its 0.030" so now I need to check to make sure I have the right head gasket. Going for max compression without knocking on 89 Octane pump gas. It will see some towing so it can't get too high, think my engine friend said about 9.25:1?

[67-72trucks]

Nice Work!

[Vintage Windmills]

Havent had too much time to work on this due to changes at work and other projects. I am still overdue for an update though.

Engine is almost done, I've been taking my time making sure every little thing is correct and the best possible. To keep it looking stock but performing better than- I am using a newer cast stock manifold that had been ported. I ground a mounting tab off it so its identical in apperance to original. I also drilled and tapped it for the heat baffle on the inside. I slit the end with a tin snips and was able to fold the little tabs over the screws to create a failsafe to keep them from vibrating loose. See pic below that shows this.

Other progress to date:

Hauled home a dent and rust free box and bench seat from WA state for it. Hope it wont be too hard to fill the trim holes and the fuel filler lids (or I may keep, still undecided).

Installed heads, valve train, oil pump and pickup, fuel pump. Sandblasted all those brackets that go on the intake manifold. Checked timing using intake centerline method and verified within 1 degree. Checked cam end play.

Dist is off to Dave Ray being converted to small body HEI. Really looking forward to this, read good things about it. Need to figure out if I want 7mm (stock) or would benefit from larger 8mm wires. Also need to put plasti dip on my spark plug wire brackets- may only allow 7mm?

Custom tuned Q jet from Sean Murphy is in and looks good but I am still wondering if the electric choke will bother me. I am told this newer setup will perform way better and hopefully the air cleaner will cover up the choke enough.

Having exhaust downtubes made up for dyno run (both 2-1/4 and 2-1/2). We will run both and see which is better for max torque in mid rpm range. I still need to figure out mufflers for this truck? Want something free flowing but quiet, any suggestions?

I'll put more pics up but here are some starters

[DeadheadNM]

Looks great! Good score on the bed. I drove to Lubbock for a nearly perfect LWB in original paint from a camper truck for my K20 and am glad I did.

I'm also aiming for a stock appearance under the hood. How can I get in touch with David Ray and Sean Murphy for similar work on my K20? I'm not familiar with the small body HEI but interested in learning more.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Need to figure out if I want 7mm (stock) or would benefit from larger 8mm wires. Also need to put plasti dip on my spark plug wire brackets- may only allow 7mm?

You could take a die grinder and 'open' them up a bit before you Plasti-dip them to get the bigger wires to fit. Just a thought.

And nice bed! You almost don't even have to paint it!

[VA72C10]

Great attention to detail! Looks like a solid bed too!

[hgs_notes]

Nice progress. I was wondering what happened to you.

[Dieselwrencher]

Your engine is looking awesome, and that bed is crazy nice! The small body HEI sounds pretty cool!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Looks great! Good score on the bed. I drove to Lubbock for a nearly perfect LWB in original paint from a camper truck for my K20 and am glad I did.

I'm also aiming for a stock appearance under the hood. How can I get in touch with David Ray and Sean Murphy for similar work on my K20? I'm not familiar with the small body HEI but interested in learning more.

Here you go! http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/ and http://smicarburetor.com/

I haven't got the HEI back yet or tried the carb yet but it sure looks nice. I'll let you know how it works out.

Hung up on the little dipstick tube in the block (can't beleive I forgot about that, but glad i remembered before putting pan on) Picked up the 2.25 exhaust piping tonight and getting the 2.5 tomorrow. Some more pics of truck and seat as it sits now.

[DeadheadNM]

Thanks! Have those on my want list now. Looks like you'll be done with the build before the snow comes.

[bmfm64]

This is my second favorite build on this board, things are coming along nicely, nice work!
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[1970gm4x4]

Diggin the old slot mag wheels, and the spicer hubs, nice build.

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments as always. Unfortunately, I've been busy with other things this summer but am hoping to get chassis work done this winter. Also, I am waiting on my distributor still. Sent of to Dave Ray (HEI451) about 2 months ago with payment and still no sign of it and he isn't answering phone calls, I'm starting to get concerned