Wife's 48

[8man]

OK, got to work on the doors for the 54 today. I had some advice from a question I asked in the forum. So here goes.

First, I plug welded the inner bracket for the push button door handle in the 48 door.
IMG_2122 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I had tacked the outer skin in place and got in a hurry to make sure the push button handle fit right. So yes, I got in a hurry and had to drill out the plug welds, just in case I had to do a lot of hammering to make the outer skin smooth. Turned out I didn't, but I'm glad I took the bracket out just in case. I had to plug weld it back in.
IMG_2119 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
This is where I started on the outer skin of the rider's door. I had finished the drivers door when I started it.

This is the driver's door patch, with the plug welds re-done.
IMG_2124 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And with the handle on it, temporarily.
IMG_2123 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Next I started on the inside lower part of the door. I cut out the rust and trimmed a patch for the hole.
IMG_2118 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And then I started welding the patch in place and finishing the welds.
IMG_2125 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

After I get all the patching done, I'm going to have them soda blasted and primed. I'll see what will need to be done to them to get rid of the rust pits.

[joedoh]

beauty!

[84blaze]

Cool idea transferring the pushbutton outer handles to the older doors. I have a bunch of the one piece glass doors but like the push button handles. I wonder if the hinges and latches line up if you put an older door on a newer cab. I'll be doing a one piece window swap regardless.

[8man]

Well, the weekend was good to me. I got one door finished and the other done on the inside, as well installed AND removed the power window mechanism and the Bear Claw latches in both doors. The drivers door needs the lower outer skin replaced, but that will be for another weekend.The lower patch took me hours to fit into place, but it welded in nicely and won't need any filler.
IMG_2134 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Not the best picture, but it's done.

I also got some cab patches done.
IMG_2131 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
It is pretty close, I hope it'll finish out without any bondo. We'll see.

I also got the 3rd wiper hole filled.
IMG_2133 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
This one will finish out with only primer and some sanding.

Then there were the drivers side mirror holes. The upper was crushed down, so I scored it with a cutoff disc and then pried it up with a screwdriver, very small lifts until it was almost in place, then I welded it. 3 cabs and all of them have the same issue. The other was a hole from something else that the PO did, so I patched it while I was at it.
IMG_2132 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
That upper mirror hole will take some more work, but it is almost level now. Several rounds of weld and grind to get it back up to where it is.

[8man]

I wish the push button handle was my idea, but several others on here have done it, some made their own.

[lower50's]

That is a great idea

[8man]

Progress is one step forward and 2 steps back isn't it? It took some time, but HEY NORCALGAL, I got the face plates on the hinges.
IMG_2143 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I plug welded the little holes, and they ground down pretty well. This was one coat of primer. I think with some high build primer, they will sand down and paint up nice.

The reason I haven't been working on the hinges is that I've been working on the doors. I have put them together and taken them apart at least 5 times each trying to make sure everything is fitting properly.
First I put in Bear Claw latches.
IMG_2137 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I ran into an issue with them. Anybody who has seen my other posts knows that the new Bear Claw latches are hitting the window channel guide.
IMG_2128 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Through the rectangular hole you can see where the window channel guide hits the latch, right on top of the "lever" that goes from the pushbutton to the release.

This leaves the top of the window channel guide about 0.4" out from the door.
IMG_2127 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This leaves me about 28.5" in the clear between the two channel guides. I'm concerned that this may not be enough clearance for the window channel and then the actual window and frame.

Does anybody have any experience with this?

[8man]

Hey Jan, look
IMG_2146 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Yes those are rebuilt, primed and assembled hinges. They are nice and tight.

Here is an upper.
IMG_2147 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Looks good, opens and closes with spring tension, just like it should.

NOW, how do you get the upper back into the cab? I've got hinge in the open position.

IMG_2148 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I tried to get it in the cab, and this is where it stops.

IMG_2149 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got the spring side in, and this is where it hits and won't go any further. ANY ideas on what to do other than open up the hole?

In the mean time, since I have the 48 cab and doors sitting there, I test fit one of the new window channel guides in the drivers door.

IMG_2144 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Looks like it fits just fine. I tried it in the door with the Bear Claw latch and it still hits on the latch which causes the top to be out about .4" at this spot at the top. I'm not sure I can get the window channel in the guide and then get the window in without binding the window or the latch.

Still looking for anyone who has put the Bear Claws latch in a single window door.

[8man]

Got the donor truck, a 1985 Chevy S10. Fun facts about the truck it has 2" drop spindles in front and 3" cut off the front springs and 6" drop blocks in back. It's so low it drug bottom going on the trailer.

IMG_2155 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Since I have to replace the front springs and shocks anyway, I'm thinking about coil overs again. I know they are more money, but I wonder if they would make for a better ride?

Going to the shop to see if I can figure out how to put the 3rd brake light in the cab.

[8man]

3rd brake light is a weld in 5" led. It will go in the cab centered over the rear window. I started on the junk cab to make sure it would fit before cutting into the cab I am using.
IMG_2158 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
So, starting inside I measured to get center and drilled a small hole from the inside because it was easier to find center there. I drilled the hole low in the vanity light location.

I cut the vanity light bracket until I could get both the vanity light AND the 3rd brake light in the hole at the same time. Here is the brake light.
IMG_2160 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I cut the outside and fiddled with it until everything fit on the outside. Fortunately I have the junk cab to test this on.
IMG_2159 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So it will weld in once I get to work on the 54 cab, and I'll have that high mounted 3rd brake light I wanted.

Then I started on the "new" dash for the 54. I am welding up the old ashtray. The black line on the ashtray is for an AC vent.
IMG_2157 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

There will be another spot for an ac vent on the other end of the grill on the dash. I'm still looking at trying to get a vent in either end of the dash. That is a more difficult undertaking.

[8man]

Got the dash welded up and ground down.
IMG_2161 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The lines line up well and it is pretty level. It should paint up just fine.

Now to figure out the vents for the AC.

[8man]

Today I tackled the door bottom, outer skin on the riders door. I have been putting this off as it is the first time I've had to replace so much door skin.

It only took me from 8 this morning to cut the hole, cut the patch, make the patch fit and partially weld it in. Here is the door at 5 pm.

IMG_2162 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

It is mostly welded in and the welds are finishing out nicely. I'll finish it next weekend and have one more thing done.

[oldman3]

Nice repair...Jim

[8man]

Thanks Jim. I'm still learning as I go, so it's slow, but I think I'm moving forward.

[8man]

Got the last of the door skin welded and it looks pretty good.

IMG_2165 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Also, thanks to some advice from Robert Kassis about using a rat tail file I got the top door hinges in.
IMG_2163 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I started on the riders side, and here is what it looks like with the hinge in place.
IMG_2164 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Just a little too much filing for that top spring. I didn't have that problem on the other hinge.

[NorCalGal]

Nice job Robert

[joedoh]

looking good man! keep plugging at it!

[8man]

I have worked on the window channel and the Bear claw latch until the inside handle works great and the outside push button works most of the time. Sometimes the outside button works, but it pushes on a lever to the Bear claw, and it sometimes sticks. I've lubed it, I've filed it down, but I guess I'll be doing a little more.

So for a change of pace, I lost my mind. I'm installing my first power windows.

IMG_2183 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

This is the riders side door with the Bear Claw and the power window. The window works great, except that it won't go all the way up. The window channel I got had bends in it for the corners, but the channel was turned OUT! I had to force it into the door facing the right direction and those two corners up top are too tight for the window to push up into with the little 7 amp power unit I'm using. I've got a larger power unit, but I am going to wait until I get different window channels.

Who has the best window channel? I want to get the right stuff and try it again.

Now to figure out how to hook up those electric door locks!

[joedoh]

a lot of times the channel gets twisted as you are bending it for the corners, spend a little time working it back to straight with a flat bladed screwdriver, bet the window goes up the rest of the way then. I use an 18v drill battery for electrical testing. sure its overdriving them but in your case that isnt a bad thing.

[8man]

Here is a picture of the channel.

IMG_2183 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

As you can see, it is bent in the exact wrong direction. The bends were pretty good form if it went in that way. Is this normal or is there a better product?

I finally got the riders door on and the new latch working. The reveal around the door is pretty good. I wish I knew how to adjust them better. I will start searching for a "how to" on that now.

IMG_2185 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Except for right here

IMG_2186 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The cab was wrecked on the right rear cab and mashed in the roll a little. I'll be working on that, but not sure I can get it all out, probably because I don't know how! Another search in my future, how to make that better.

[joedoh]

thats what mine looked like, I dunno, that material is always a b-time in the corners for me, I end up working at it a long time. one thing that helped me was to fit it to the GLASS and not the channel, it actually takes a different shape in the channel but if you cram it all the way in there the glass wont actually touch in the corners.

[8man]

Well, another problem. I posted it over on the forum, looking for ideas.

I got the Bear Claw working properly, the power window unit in and the power door lock installed, then I took the last two out and put the door on the truck.

IMG_2189 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I started trying to adjust the door. That is where I found a bend in the door frame. The front top part of the window frame is bent in toward the cab. It hits before the door shuts all the way. I want to find a solution, but if not I'm going to have to get a drivers side door and start over.

Good thing I have a lot of other stuff to work on while I come up with the solution.

[dsraven]

got a pic of the bend?

[slammed57]

comin along very nice bud!

[dsraven]

these old trucks probably didn't fit that well from factory so the "fitters" likely did what most would do when the door doesn't fit, put a knee below the window area, grab the top of the window channel and give it a pull. maybe thats what has happened to your door? possibly reverse the scenario to bend it back the way it came? wood block in the door opening and close door against the block to see if the door will "move" back like it was without oil canning?
again, a pic of what youre dealing with may help.