How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shearjs

I should have looked a little closer and I would have noticed your snake nest. I’m getting close on my wiring now and I think I’m shooting for under the seat on the drivers side.

I’ve laid mine in the under-seat area on the passenger side and it seems doable, with relocating a few of the fuse and relay locations. I don’t want to cut any wires if I can avoid it, as it voids the Holley warranty, though I think I should be able to do it with some creative re-looming.

[halfstep]

GringoLoco:
Thanks for sharing your build - the information and ideas from you and others really helps.
Question:
Assuming you're connected to the engine, how far does the Terminator X harness/ECM extend into the cab - or how much length do you have once past the firewall?
Thx.

[3757chevy]

I like the black. But it's your truck. And a Beautiful one at that.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

I like the black. But it's your truck. And a Beautiful one at that.

Much appreciated. It’s growing on me. I don’t hate it, just not sure I like it, yet

[nlped]

The black will disappear once you get the rest of the interior in there. That being said, I’m going blue in Walter.

[SCOTI]

Gringo & Niped..... Question for you both: How much 'resistance' do your PB arms have w/the Delrin bushings? I partially assembled one upper & was surprised w/how hard the arm was to cycle through the travel.

The bushings required more force than I expected to get them seated on the cross-shaft. I feel like the welding process tweaked the arm enough that its in a bind.

Either of you note anything like what I'm describing?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by nlped

The black will disappear once you get the rest of the interior in there. That being said, I’m going blue in Walter.

That’s what my wife said, too. I’m rolling with it for now. If I hate it, it will get replaced...

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Gringo & Niped..... Question for you both: How much 'resistance' do your PB arms have w/the Delrin bushings? I partially assembled one upper & was surprised w/how hard the arm was to cycle through the travel.

The bushings required more force than I expected to get them seated on the cross-shaft. I feel like the welding process tweaked the arm enough that its in a bind.

Either of you note anything like what I'm describing?

Yep, actually had a bit of an issue getting it all together due to the tight clearances and ended up emailing Nate. He said that in extreme circumstances, one may have to use a bottle jack or porta-power to spread them back out a bit. If you try to force bolting them on, it could exacerbate the issue by folding the arms inward. Letting them relax bolted in position on the truck for a few months (years?) now, they are moving very smoothly. Maybe driving a few times and cycling them helped to settle everything

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Yep, actually had a bit of an issue getting it all together due to the tight clearances and ended up emailing Nate. He said that in extreme circumstances, one may have to use a bottle jack or porta-power to spread them back out a bit. If you try to force bolting them on, it could exacerbate the issue by folding the arms inward. Letting them relax bolted in position on the truck for a few months (years?) now, they are moving very smoothly. Maybe driving a few times and cycling them helped to settle everything

That definitely does not give me the warm & fuzzies.

The upper bushings spin freely on the arms cross- shaft.
The upper bushings fit within the bushing 'cups' on the arm.
Combine the two & now things dont align requiring them to be forced together.

While waiting for some insight on the uppers today, I messed w/the drivers side lower. Of the 4 bushings I tried on the lower drivers arm, one slipped right in w/zero effort & had some 'wiggle'. A 2nd pushed in w/my palm (it had less 'wiggle'). The other 2 require more force (c-clamp) but seem like they'll seat as needed. I pulled the sleeve & bolt from the ART arm on the truck now & both seemed they had a proper fit within the Delrin bushings.

I'll assemble & test installation fit to the DM of the lower arm tomorrow using the 2 easier to install of the 4 bushings.

Not sure what my approach will be for the upper. It should go together & not be in a bind. I'm not going to settle for anything less.

[nlped]

I don’t remember having any issues, but it’s been a LONG time ago.

[gringoloco]

So, this truck needs three, count ‘em three (3) shift boots. 1) to fit over the shifter itself to keep dirt and whatnot out, 2) to fit around the shifter base to keep dirt, rain, and whatnot out of the truck, and 3) to fit on top of the carpet and around the shifter handle to make it all look presentable.

Number one came with the transmission and number three will be a “stock” type oval boot. Number two required some creativity. I took a Mr. Gasket boot, cut off the top, flipped it upside down to fit around the shifter base, and bolted it to the floor. The boot itself is pretty decent quality, but the supplied ring and fasteners are a joke. I stuck 4 additional screws in it to help squish the boot into a reasonably sealed gasket. Excessive? Maybe, but it should help to keep the carpet dry...

[gringoloco]

Thankfully all that shenanigans disappears under the insulation, carpet, and inside boot (ordered a new one that’s hopefully not ripped and brown)

[SCOTI]

How are you securing boot #3?
Is each layer anchored to the floor?

Looks clean!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

How are you securing boot #3?
Is each layer anchored to the floor?

Looks clean!

Thanks Scoti. #1 is a tight slip fit over the shifter stub and base, #2 is screwed into the high hump, and #3, the ‘decorative’ boot is just sitting there for now, as I used the trim ring on the grey Blazer before I sold it. A new boot is ‘in the mail’ with a new ring which will get fastened to the hump with some stainless sheetmetal screws (maybe the same ones that were holding it on before with the Lokar, if I can find them).

[lolife99]

Looks perfect.
Less is more and yours is super clean.
Most don’t realize the amount of work it takes to make things look stock.
Love the entire truck!

[nlped]

Oh My!!! That’s quite a list, man! But I have to admit, I wish I was that close in Walter.

[kehstr]

Looks Fantastic!!

I agree with the shifter boot. Not quite sure if it works or not.
Have you thought about something like this one from Jegs, and then dialing the shine on it back??

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/62382/10002/-1

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by nlped

Oh My!!! That’s quite a list, man! But I have to admit, I wish I was that close in Walter.

I know, the “end” felt closer before I wrote it down. Just keep chipping away, we’ll get there

Originally Posted by kehstr

Looks Fantastic!!

I agree with the shifter boot. Not quite sure if it works or not.
Have you thought about something like this one from Jegs, and then dialing the shine on it back??

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/62382/10002/-1

Thanks! Though, I’ve never really been a huge fan of the Hurst-style boots. I think this one will get some stainless pan-heads and call it good for now. If it wears on me I’ll change it whenever I decide to do blue carpet

[gringoloco]

Getting the Hill’s Rod and Custom (now Stoner Speed Shop) inner fenders installed, and boy, lemme tell ya, what a pain. But, man do they complete the “stock, but not” theme in the engine bay. Still lots more to do to get everything fitting perfectly on this side before moving to the driver’s, which should go a little smoother now that I have some clue of how to attack it. Bonus: the billet hinges fit with plenty of room to spare

Undecided on the cut fender edge treatment, I’m tossing around leave as-is, weld in a rolled edge, or use press-on door edging...

[SCOTI]

Wow! I didn't realize aftermarket (fender mounted) hinges would clear the HR&C/SSS tubs. That's great to know. I didn't want to have to cut the cowl on my 67/68 RetroRod for PB's style hinge.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Wow! I didn't realize aftermarket (fender mounted) hinges would clear the HR&C/SSS tubs. That's great to know. I didn't want to have to cut the cowl on my 67/68 RetroRod for PB's style hinge.

These are the only ones I know of that will. They were designed by Brandon Sisco for his 2-door Tahoe using Slosh Tubs. I haven’t seen anyone else do it with these, so I took a (somewhat researched and calculated) gamble that they would work and can happily report lots of clearance. I’m with you on the cowl cutting and prefer the more “stock” look of fender located.

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

Check out what Rob did on one of his builds a while back. Its a long shot, but maybe he still has the bucks? ��

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=657

Thanks, I remember that, and I do like the look. It would drive a slight modification to my hinge mounting, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome.

[ajgriffin]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Getting the Hill’s Rod and Custom (now Stoner Speed Shop) inner fenders installed, and boy, lemme tell ya, what a pain. But, man do they complete the “stock, but not” theme in the engine bay. Still lots more to do to get everything fitting perfectly on this side before moving to the driver’s, which should go a little smoother now that I have some clue of how to attack it. Bonus: the billet hinges fit with plenty of room to spare

Undecided on the cut fender edge treatment, I’m tossing around leave as-is, weld in a rolled edge, or use press-on door edging...

Check out what Rob did on one of his builds a while back. Its a long shot, but maybe he still has the bucks? 🤔

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=657

[nlped]

Tell me more about these hood hinges, please!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by nlped

Tell me more about these hood hinges, please!

Sold by All-American Billet, made to reside in the stock location but out of the way of the tires on slammed trucks. I found out about them after seeing them installed on the Ghoesst “Tahoe”.

https://shop.allamericanbillet.com/a...uctid=-8534758

[TA_C10]

That trans x-member the way it zigs and zags sure is nice creating that perfect clearance for long tubes. I wish I new about that one. I'm half tempted to modify mine but I will wait for phase II. Everything is already done and I need to move on the paint.

So one thing I noticed, that I have not ever seen before, is how you put the x pipe sideways like that. I assume you did your research on that and it should flow, but my first thought seeing that is "will if flow properly"?

It looks great under there like that man.

.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

That trans x-member the way it zigs and zags sure is nice creating that perfect clearance for long tubes. I wish I new about that one. I'm half tempted to modify mine but I will wait for phase II. Everything is already done and I need to move on the paint.

So one thing I noticed, that I have not ever seen before, is how you put the x pipe sideways like that. I assume you did your research on that and it should flow, but my first thought seeing that is "will if flow properly"?

It looks great under there like that man.

.

Thanks! Yeah, I had the same concerns with the X rotated 90° from what is ‘normal’, but that’s the only way I could make the angles work with all of the other stuff crammed into that area. Looking through the inside of it, it’s basically a wide-open chamber, so it looks like it will flow well regardless of position.

I’ve looked and scratched my head a bit and have come to realize that the gasses would still be flowing through the X the same way, it’s just the bends in the ‘legs’ that are at different angles, if that makes sense. Guess we’ll see how it works out?

The trans crossmember is an ECE (or POL, or CPP, can’t remember) that I modified. Works great for what I needed. See how I did it here:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=314