Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[menace121978]

thanks guys much apprieciated!

after i found out how much a stock tach. cluster goes for i'm thinking to just use aftermarket gauges in the stock bezel. i really like the look of joe's and what others have done to the stock cluster w/ tach.

[menace121978]

Bob, going through some of my book marks from last year and stumbled onto this... http://home.comcast.net/~airdeano/1965/index.htm lots of good info and tons of wiring diagrams since your thinking about doing your own harness. its a dbw also

[glock35ipsc]

Oh SWEET!!! I've found a lot of wiring diagrams, but these are by far the cleanest I've seen! The ones I have look like a scan of a scan of a photograph.

Thanks man! Now I'm not-so-patiently waiting for my engine/trans to get here.......

[menace121978]

ANYTHING for you buddy!

i think thats about all the info, links, and bookmarks i have. everything else has already been posted or is common knowledge! spent most of yesterday reading and following links

[glock35ipsc]

I made PDF's out of the wire diagrams on that site:

[glock35ipsc]

I picked up an LS1 intake today. I know they don't make as much bottom end power as the stock truck intake, but man they sure do look better!

This will probably just go on the shelf for now. Later on down the road, I plan on swapping heads, a Vinci cam, and a Yank stall converter.

[menace121978]

right on Bob! little by little!!

what year motor/trans did you end up getting?

[glock35ipsc]

Yep! I want to get it running and driving so I can work all the bugs out, then maybe when I go to paint it I'll swap all the go fast stuff on then.

The combo I got is out of a 2006 Silverado reg cab 2wd.

[menace121978]

gotcha, does that mean you can just swap the dbw t/b onto the ls1 intake and visa versa?

[glock35ipsc]

For the most part. I may need to change the water pump and move the tensioner pulley since the TB will sit lower, but it's a pretty straight forward swap.

[glock35ipsc]

Well, nothing that's really picture worthy , but I got the new power steering gear put on tonight. Got it bled, then set the tires on the ground. Nice and smooth, no noise either. The original one was leaking, and in the last week started to leak REAL bad.

So hopefully this will tighten up the steering too, and make it feel like I'm driving Fred, not the other way around!

[hessian18]

Wow this thread is full of info !!

Nice truck and great progress so far.


The more I read about these swaps the more I cant wait to start mine.

I need to start gathering my fuel system parts and look for a 12 bolt rear axle while im at it.


I will be watching this thread for sure

[JohnC]

Yeah Bob your thread and Dennis's may become sticky threads for LSX swaps!

[glock35ipsc]

Thanks guys! The more info that gets out the better!

[glock35ipsc]

UPS brought the filter/regulator and related fittings today. And just before I left for lunch, I got an email from Rancho Recyclers that the engine and transmission are shipping tomorrow.

[JohnC]

WooHoo!!

[nlped]

Cool Taters!!!

[menace121978]

sweet!! very excited for you Bob!

[glock35ipsc]

OK, I think I'm gonna slightly change the fuel system, nothing major. I am going to add a second filter/regulator to the system. So now, I will have a filter/regulator between each tank and the switching valve. Then from the switching valve, it will run straight to the motor.

I need to think this through first, but if this will work, I can return the 6-port valve that arrived today and exchange it for a 3-port valve. Since all the returned fuel will be returned before it ever reaches the valve, there is no need for return lines on the valve.

My reason for this change: The valve is rated at 65psi max. The working psi of the Vortec system is 58-60, but the EP381 pumps are rated up to 80 psi. So the potential to over pressurize the valve exists simply by turning on the ignition. So by having the filters before the valve, I think the valve life will be extended. I won't know for sure until I crawl under Fred, but I think this might be a little easier to plumb too.

Please take a look at these and let me know your thoughts:

Original/OEM way:



The new Fred way:

[nlped]

That appears as though that would be much easier to hook up and seems to make perfect sense. Your DBW motor is a returnless system anyway, correct?

Cheers,

Ed

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by nlped

Your DBW motor is a returnless system anyway, correct?

Cheers,

Ed

Thanks Ed, I was hoping someone would chime in and say that.... or say "nah, that'll never work!!"

Yeah, it is returnless. That and the DBW were the main reasons I looked for 2004 and newer.

[glock35ipsc]

Here is this weekends project. I've had the Punch amp and Punch component speakers for probably 4 years now, maybe 5. I bought them, along with the Alpine I installed in Fred, and a 12" Punch sub in a sealed down-firing box for my old 2003 extended cab. This system sounded absolutely amazing in that truck. So I can't wait to hear it in Fred.

The only difference will be the sub. The 12" is waaaay too deep to fit behind the seat. So I found a nice 10" Kicker shallow mount in a sealed box today. I hope to have that by the end of next week when I take a road trip to Steamboat Springs. If not, I'll set the Punch sub in the passenger floor board for the trip.

BTW, the sub and box are for sale! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...ct=3475&cat=18

[glock35ipsc]

The new sub that is one the way:

[menace121978]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

OK, I think I'm gonna slightly change the fuel system, nothing major. I am going to add a second filter/regulator to the system. So now, I will have a filter/regulator between each tank and the switching valve. Then from the switching valve, it will run straight to the motor.

I need to think this through first, but if this will work, I can return the 6-port valve that arrived today and exchange it for a 3-port valve. Since all the returned fuel will be returned before it ever reaches the valve, there is no need for return lines on the valve.

My reason for this change: The valve is rated at 65psi max. The working psi of the Vortec system is 58-60, but the EP381 pumps are rated up to 80 psi. So the potential to over pressurize the valve exists simply by turning on the ignition. So by having the filters before the valve, I think the valve life will be extended. I won't know for sure until I crawl under Fred, but I think this might be a little easier to plumb too.

Please take a look at these and let me know your thoughts:

Original/OEM way:



The new Fred way:

Bob, i think this is a good idea... it would have much better filtering and it would be ALOT easier on that valve not having 80psi forced into it and then having to turn around and return the extra fuel back to the tank. at 80 psi the regulators/filters can do all the work maintaining 58psi and returning the extra. BUT.... i was just out looking at my lines from the sending units and theirs not a place to mount the extra filter on the driverside. from the sending unit on the d/s it routes straight across the cross member to the pass. side. you would have to either route the lines and filter towards the rear on the frame rail and then COME BACK the other way towards the front and go across the cross member. and visa-versa if you started towards the front. either way you'll have to back track the lines to hit the cross member to get to the other side. i took alot of time doing my fuel line the cleanest way possible and discarded the idea of running 1 inline filter per tank. the tanks are just in a bad position in relation to the cross member to do anything but run straight across. take a look under there and let me know if your seeing something different.

[menace121978]

just went out there again... anything IS possible Bob, but the cab mounts arent helping things out much either. can you measure the filter w/ the fittings attached for me? and i can place the measurement on the frame rail to see how far back you would have to go.

take a look at my frame pics and you can see how the sending unit lines point straight across to the hard line that runs to the other side. that might give you a better idea than having to crawl under FRED w/ the cab and bed on.


BTW, the system and new box looks sick!!