My grandsons 68 stepper

[54belair]

Thanks man,,,, yeah anymore help-----even though it would be fun, Id never get it done!!! But, even though this is supposed to be a truck build--its also a way to build memories.

[54belair]

MERRY CHRISTMAS

merry Christmas to anyone who s browsing this year.

[54belair]

Time flies when youre having fun----or not!!! Here it is July '17, I have been very lax and remis over the last year or so with this build thread (and actually with the build itself)
Today I actually narrowed the punch list on this 5 year project to three or four main items as well as a handful of little stuff. The truck is dangerously close to seeing daylight. Gotta check all bolts for tightness, adjust the clutch and the new engine (new--yet three years old!!) will be ready to fire. If that all goes well then the last issue will be mounting the hood. (yes, I know that could be a real &isser too).
Anyway, I doubt that anyone is still following the build, but if you are--thanks for your patience. Ive included some pics taken today after mounting the front bumper and cowl.

[YJ_Aaron]

Great build, and you're not far from me. Hope to see it around.

[Ol Blue K20]

It's looking great. Thanks for the update

[54belair]

Today I spun the new engine for the first time-----its been sitting for quite awhile so I pulled the plugs and spun it a few times just to test the starter and build some oil pressure and let the engine oil a little before I actually tried to start it. That all went well---so now on to the real reason for this particular post.

Remember one word during your build------ DOCUMENT!

Document all changes. As a retired Engineer I of all people should have remembered this. I added disc brakes, in order to do this you have to add non stock parts. I remembered that I added later model tie rod ends----but, probably due to age, I forgot exactly what I added and most importantly Why I did it. Next week the truck will be going out for an alignment and I thought it would be a good idea if I were able to tell the mechanic what was stock and what was not-----and why!!!!
I spent an hour researching this morning Why I did what I did.

All is good now-----I have documented the changes!! Later today Ill be adding some fuel and trying to do the initial strtup and run in----more pics later.....

[54belair]

Initial start up went great. Only ran a very short time, had fuel leak at carb. so I shut it down to address that-- will start and Run in again in the morning.

[GR8-68]

That is an awesome milestone And you have a beautiful truck

[54belair]

Alrighty, here we are two months short of 6 years of ownership--and 5 1/2 years on this build (so far)

Actualy got her running yesterday but had a fuel leak that I had to tackle this morning----so today is the birthday of "My Grandsons 68 stepper". Today she backed out of the garage on her own power into the sunlight. I did what I thought was a good job of bleeding the brakes last week--but I'm not impressed with the amt. of brakes so I moved her around in the yard but didn't go for a shakedown trip yet. Already know of a few little issues----but those are just "growing pains", today was the birthday.
Tomorrow I'm going to start it and back it out of the garage on its own power to show it to my Grandson. He has been really good, not pushing me about the truck. I haven't told him anything about it for a few weeks, so I'm going to have them over for some other reason--then just back her out!!

[54belair]

The afternoon sun really makes the gold flake pop in the paint---too bad the pics wont show it.

[54belair]

Took pictures of everything but the birthday cake---I'm on a diet,,, no cake.
The last pic shows the drivers door-----yes it will shut flush, its just on the safety latch in this pic.

[54belair]

I know there will be some who are curious about the stance, so Ill say that:

Front springs are stock height, but there is a 1 1/2" drop spindle. In the rear we have a 4" drop spring.
Tires are 245 r60 x 17 All indications are that its going to be a "firm" ride. Never liked the "wagon wheel" look of giant wheels, so I chose the 17" TT II's


In the coming days Ill be hammering out the lil issues with it-- which include front alignment, re-bleeding the brakes and a punch list of a few more things, then after all that we'll set the hood on her and call it officially "Almost Finished"!!!
This fall or over the winter she will get a new rear gear set and posi, a bed cover and who knows what else.

[Low Elco]

Looks great, Congratulations!

[54belair]

The opportunities in this build just keep coming!! As so before me have, I now have the "door weatherstrip" challenge.
Ive known there might be an issue all along just by listening to and watching other build threads so when I spent all the time adjusting the door gaps I also took time to set the door latch as far out as I could and Still have the door edge even with the cab. Actually I feared that I had the latch plate set too far out.
About 4 years ago I purchased a complete set of weatherstripping which consisted of the best (at the time) precision door seals. I installed those hoping for a decent fit-----and guess what,,,, The older style push on door seals were sooo thick it took maximum effort just to get the door to shut enough so as to catch the safety latch. This left a whopping 3/4" gap at the back edge of the door.
As of this entry I still don't have that issue resolved, I have ordered the latest and greatest door seal that is supposed to be exactly like OEM. We'll see, I certainly hope so. I also went to a local pick and pull and purchased a used set from a 94 dodge Dakota (which many say is the best). Ill install the used dodge set while I wait on delivery of the new chevy set and if the Dakota set works I may order a new set of that part number.

No matter how it works out, two things are certain--- a large of small gap at the rear of the door isn't acceptable and even if its made for some foreign car----there has to be a weatherstrip that will work.

[Low Elco]

I can say- a friend of mine bought Precision push-on's for his squarebody and LOVES them.

[Jason7121]

I bought push on door seals by precision and also tried oer factory style seals both have your issue.

[Devil Pup]

I just picked up a set of used Dodge Dakota door seals. .they fit really well even in the molded corner. Im sure a brand new set would be a tight shut, but after time would wear in really nice.

[Jason7121]

Do those seals help with door closing and what year Dakota extra cab reg cab?

[54belair]

Id definitely be interested in hearing Any final solutions that anyone has come up with.

The Dakota door seals that you want (I'm told) are from 86 to 97 (ish), as for whether they are regular cab or extended cab---I don't know.

I did go yesterday to a local pick and pull and found one set from a 94 regular cab that were in good shape and I pulled them. they ran $12.50

I still have to clean them up but will prob. install tomorrow.

A NOTE: I looked at 6 trucks from 88 to 94
All of the trucks except the one that I bought had the joint in the seal located low on the hinge post. the one I bought had the joint on the bottom center. I chose that one because of overall quality And I figured the bends were close to being in the correct place. Keep in mind---none of what Ive just said may turn out to be accurate!!!!

My initial observation is that the overall size (thickness ) of the Dakota seal was almost identical to the older Precision design that I initially installed, however the bulb of the seal does seem more pliable and has a slightly different configuration. So identical in fact---I almost didn't buy them. I figured I was there and they were cheap etc. etc.

I did spend some time yesterday looking closely at exactly why my doors wouldn't shut-------and at least "on my truck", the reason is the bulb of the seal on the front door post (hinge post) wants to press in instead out out on the door----it actually interferes with the front of the door and the hinge post.
I hope I explained that so you all could understand what I saw.

If the Dakota seal and/or the new style precision seal doesn't work I'm going to look into somehow splitting the bulb along the A post (hinge) so that it will lay to the inside of the truck instead of crushing between door and post.

Ive always been taught that problems should always be considered as Opportunities-----all I know for sure is that I'm pretty fed up with c 10 opportunities.

Once again, anyone with info or solutions to this issue, please leave a message here or on some thread dealing with door seals----Our information could benefit others having the same issues in the future.

[54belair]

OK, I couldn't wait till tomorrow!!!

I have some news for other members who may be having door seal issues!!

I went back to the shop, cleaned the weatherstrip first with simple green then gave them a coating of the foaming tire cleaner. After 20 minutes these used Dakota door seals looked as good (?) as the brand new ones that wouldn't work. So, for the record Id like to make the following statement and hopefully it might help other truck builders.

I installed the 1994 Dodge Dakota (reg. cab) door seals on my 68 c10 And the doors shut with medium pressure. Previously with new precision c10 door seals I could BARELY force the doors onto the safety catch, leaving a least a 3/4" gap at the back edge of the door. These turned out looking so good that I probably wont install the new precision seals that are still coming.

The dodge Dakota seals are about 4" too long and can be easily trimmed.
As I mentioned in the previous post---I looked at several wrecked Dakotas ranging from 88 to the 94 that I used and found that in this case all but the 94 had the weatherstrip joint located about 6" from the bottom of the A post. The 94 was the only one that joined in the bottom center as the seals for our truck are supposed to join. Somethng else that I liked, our doors and the Dakota doors are nearly perfect match in size. The existing sharper bends that were already in the Dakota seals fit exactly where I needed them.
I cant do a finished installation yet as lmc sent me the wrong door sill plates and Id like to wait till I get those to actually cut the rubber seals.

NOTE*** If anyone is having issues with new aftermarket door seals (weatherstripping) It might definitely be worth the effort to try some good used Dodge Dakota door seals (reg. cab, 87-97 ish years) older square body. Mine were $12.50 and an hours time.

[54belair]

I just found a very interesting thread on weatherstripping---located in the Product Review section.
This was a thread started in 2014 (and revived by me today) In the beginning of the thread there is a picture showing a cross section of the two different profiles between glue on and push on. That difference in profile is a very big contributor to why new seals wont allow doors to shut correctly. My suggestion would be to go to the trouble of glueing on the seals instead of the convenience of the push on.
I have also noticed that the push on style is more expensive------Hmmm, whoda thought that????


To find that thread, go to "Review Board"------sub topic-- Product review-------name of the thread is My weatherstripping experience by member Hamjet

It is the best thread Ive ever found on weatherstripping---------too bad its stuck in a place that no one ever sees it.

[Devil Pup]

Good to hear those fixed your issue! Im not driving my truck yet but the seal seems so much better than the ones that came off. The molded corner fit almost exactly like it was made for it, and the seal is nice and tight around the lip of the truck.

[54belair]

Thankfully there seems to be more than one "fix" to our problems. I wish I had found the above thread before I ordered another push on set of seals----the problem that I seemed to be having would have been solved by the glue on profile. By the way, I just posted the link to that thread in the 67-72 message section--its a good read for anyone working with weatherstripping.

[54belair]

Today, I received the "new style" precision door weatherstripping. I ordered the push on with the preformed upper front corner. Contrary to what I to believed, this new style seal is different. The bulb itself is thinner and much less rigid. The bulb feels very much like the dodge Dakota seal.

The last thing I'm going to say about weatherstripping (!!!) is that I installed the Dodge Dakota seals---they look good and work well
and I intend to leave them in place, but--- I am somewhat confident the new style chevy door seal is also a good choice. If I have any future weatherstrip problems Ill try the latest and greatest that I just received

Today I'm doing some clean up touch up work on the truck. We have a tentative reveal date on the truck of Sept 9 (local car show), so Ive got another month to work thru a final punch list of about 8 things. More pics to come.

[54belair]

Well, the truck has been running for a couple weeks now so I thought Id give an update.
Not much done to it that will show up in a pic, so Ill wait on the pics. Ive had the truck out for three short trips so far (about 7 miles each), I took her to the alignment shop first----drives much better now, then yesterday I went to the muffler shop and got the tailpipes put on ( I had previously trailered her to the muffler shop to get the exhaust pipes and mufflers put on--a little over a year ago in fact), now it was time to get the exhaust out behind the rear axle. Because of the rear mounted tank I chose not to do a real elaborate tail pipe just to get it to the rear bumper, so we routed the pipe over the axle, kicked it out toward the back of the rear tire and ended it there.
Today I went to the tire shop for some new skins---they are the same size and don't really look any diff---these just have tread ((!) and no weather cracks. The old tires were well used and prob. 10 yrs old.

Ive come up with two nagging issues so far---One is the power steering gearbox--it leaks on the input side and I opted to replace rather than putting a Band-Aid on this one. So far Ive ordered three gears----the prob. is the rebuilders lump gearboxes from 64 to in the 80s under 1 part number----and they say It will work-----just change hydraulic hoses because the fittings are different on the newer boxes----And, you might have to replace the rag joint!!! I'm not willing to do all that crap because of their rebuilding practices. So, I order a gearbox telling them EXACTLY the casting I want, and they send me what they want-----so I send it back! Eventually they are going to screw up and send me exactly what I want!!!

The other issue I haven't worked thru yet is the Brake pedal. The brake pedal seems to hang up and not return back to its "home" location. There is no place to put a spring and I haven't found any particular spot where the linkage is binding. It actually holds the brake On slightly as well as the brake lights. I can fix the brake light thing easily by re-adjusting the switch---but the pedal still drags. Minor issue, just real annoying.
Today is Friday, this coming sunday my son in law will come over to help me put the hood on------or at least make the first attempt at putting the hood on. The one consistant thing about this build has been that veeery few things work right the First Time!!!! Ill be including several more pics when the hood is on. Thanks for following,,,,