1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Coach529

IFS vs. Solid axle. 50% of my decision was based on $$$$. A Fatman IFS system was double what I paid for my Sid's front set up. Plus then you have to deal with power steering, and if I had IFS I would want to be on bags. More $$$$.

I just wanted to chime in for Dan that they do also make manual racks for the IFS's. Coach is right that power stearing can be a headache to set up so there is always a manual rack option if you go IFS. Power just makes it easyer to turn going slow (parking).

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I just wanted to chime in for Dan that they do also make manual racks for the IFS's. Coach is right that power stearing can be a headache to set up so there is always a manual rack option if you go IFS. Power just makes it easyer to turn going slow (parking).

Good to know.....thanks!!

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Have you researched having them re-arched? Then everything under there would be fresh. I always wonder; if they sag will it be evenly.

Coach & Newfisher: Care to comment subjectively for us guys that are on the fence about an I beam front axle vs. a switch to IFS? I KNOW IFS is "better" in most ways but I see early cars; street rods mostly and I think they're running (mostly) stock suspension. I beams, transverse springs, hairpins, etc. I wonder if in 20 years guys in this hobby will be cursing us who cut the front of our frame off for a Camaro clip!
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Straight vs. IFS, If you do it like Coach and I , it does cost a bit. I even have 4 completely new leaf packs, shackles, plates, shocks, tapered bearings, new kings/pins etc. So I am very close to IFS. I like how the springs in the seat feel when driving the Burb or the Apache I had while looking out across the hood. I drive the Burb most every day and park my 2005 Crew Chevy, because I feel good driving an older rig.

If I was to change to IFS, I would have to change how I feel about an older truck. Sure it would ride smoother, drop lower etc but I have that and and a few others in the driveway. To me, IFS is superior in ride, handling and parts replacement once installed and probobly safer. 27 OEM companies building cars and 1/2 ton trucks didn't change because it wasn't any of these right?

If you like the look and feel of an old truck-go straihght axle

If you like the look , but feel of a new truck -go IFS

If you are like me and have an old truck that you like, but want something bagged and laying frame--own 2

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

If you are like me and have an old truck that you like, but want something bagged and laying frame--own 2

I can see that 100%. I am already searching for project #2.

[Russell Ashley]

"I wonder if in 20 years guys in this hobby will be cursing us who cut the front of our frame off for a Camaro clip!"

Dicer is doing that already, LOL.

Just ragging you a little, Dicer. I always enjoy reading your posts.

[Coach529]

OK.........my Fire Bird rear end turned up no good. Bearings shot and a pound of metal stuck to the magnet. It was the wrong ratio anyway, 2.73.

Sitting just a couple vehicles down was a 1997 4 x 4 blazer with a GU6 rear end. 3:43. Perfect!!

Ran out of time today....had to pick up the kids at school. Tomorrow AM hopefully!!

[NEWFISHER]

Same bolt pattern as the front?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Same bolt pattern as the front?

Good question. It is 5 bolt.

Google search turns up 5 on 4-3/4".

[NEWFISHER]

I love google

[Coach529]

Now help me with my driveshaft question......google is failing me. :-(

[Coach529]

Henry's old HO72 is out........heavy bugger.



New rear end mock up tomorrow!!! :-)

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Coach529

Henry's old HO72 is out........heavy bugger.

....the "direct method of problem solving" huh? Just cut the U-bolts, the brake lines, etc? I'm surprised you didn't cut the universal joints too, ha ha!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

....the "direct method of problem solving" huh? Just cut the U-bolts, the brake lines, etc? I'm surprised you didn't cut the universal joints too, ha ha!

15 minutes with a skinny wheel and that baby was out of the truck........time is money!! I did cut the nuts off the u joints.

[Coach529]

Today was an adventure that is for sure.

Out goal today was to get the rear end cut out of the donor and get it mocked up in Henry, and hopefully get it down on the ground for a peak. Lofty goal maybe......but achievable. so I thought!!

The donor:



18 degrees and a 20 mph wind means you work fast. Less than 45 minutes later the rear end was in the pickup, paid for and we were headed home!!. Good help is awesome!! The Scrap yard guys were generous today, $75.00 for the rear end and I can use the rims for mock up if I bring them back!!



When we got home the train came off the tracks. Somehow I had missed it before, but the stock 3600 shackles and mounts were shot.





No what?? We headed back to the scrap yard, pushed for time with a noon closing looming. Not sure what direction to go we looked around. There are two 3600 series trucks onsite....but both were in the same shape as mine.

Next option, find a usable truck and steal the leaves, mounts and shackles. We located a mid 80's S-10, and had the man flip it on it's side. Quick work with an impact and a torch, as well as $40 lighter in the wallet we were back on the road.



Once home I leveled the truck front to back and marked the centering pin of the existing spring pack. Then we stripped the old shackle mounts with a skinny wheel, a BFH and a punch. Some cussing, swinging and more cussing the frame is stripped!!





The S-10 spring packs are longer. Stock 3600 leaf packs were about 45" eye to eye. The S-10's are 52". This means the rear running board mount will have to be modified. No big deal, but another step.

Now the big question. Outboard springs or not?

The stock outboard leaf to leaf width of the 3600 was about 41-1/2 center to center.

The stock frame rails are 33" center to center.

Would it be possible to mount my new leaf packs under the frame or would that be too narrow?

[NEWFISHER]

That's sexy. We need a close up of the painters tape "to do" list. I hope wire brush and POR15 is on it
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[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

That's sexy. We need a close up of the painters tape "to do" list. I hope wire brush and POR15 is on it
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The punch list is secret!!

Ha......no KBS coatings is sitting on the shelf waiting!! After the notch and boxing!!

[Coach529]

Hoping for a solid mock up tomorrow and sitting on all 4 tires......if all goes well!!

[NEWFISHER]

3600 frames are 10 inches skinnier in the rear aren't they? If so, I would run them outboard for sure. More stable I would think. You will like the S10 leafs, I had them on an off road rig and they felt good on the road.
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[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

3600 frames are 10 inches skinnier in the rear aren't they? If so, I would run them outboard for sure. More stable I would think. You will like the S10 leafs, I had them on an off road rig and they felt good on the road.
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I pretty much decided to go that route after running it through my head repeatedly overnight.

I need to pick up some steel and fab some mounts!!

[NEWFISHER]

4x4 supply shops in your area will have laser cut chevy and ford pockets pre fabbed. Or look at sky-manufacturing.com he just down the street from me.
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[Coach529]

Busy day in the garage after Church and a nice long run to clear my head.

With the help of a couple friends and a little bit of treated lumber we were able to get the rear suspension on the drivers side somewhat mocked up.





The S-10 springs have more arc to begin with then my 3600 springs, but also settle a lot more under the weight of the truck. Understandable. Trying to figure out ride height has been a really tricky math problem. Guessing on how much the truck will sag with the bed weight....tire heights, etc etc!!

We did enough today to know what we need for a front mount, which will be 4" x 4" x 1/8" square tube. Should look just like the 4" x 4" wood block in the pictures. I will bolt it to the frame, box the tubing and do a final weld to the frame. Probably overkill........but I want it to be solid and last another 60+ years.

The rear mounts are the question mark that I do not want to make a call on until I get rims and tires all the way around and some weight above the axle.

[NEWFISHER]

You should notch the 4x and use it.

Over on the hamb they would call it traditional hehehe

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

You should notch the 4x and use it.

Over on the hamb they would call it traditional hehehe

My wife was quite confused when she came out to the garage to see me screwing a block of wood to the frame of the truck!!

[Tx Firefighter]

S10 springs and axle, worst case you mis-figure and have to run a lowering block. S10 stuff is so common you can practically buy lowering blocks and u bolts at Walmart for them.
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[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

S10 springs and axle, worst case you mis-figure and have to run a lowering block. S10 stuff is so common you can practically buy lowering blocks and u bolts at Walmart for them.
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True....lowering it is not a big issue. Raising it back up is the issue!!