How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer...

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by toplesskayfiver

lookin good! what are you using for the rear disc conversion?

Glock's(boardmember) Impala kit. His brackets are under $100, calipers were $50ea rebuilt on eBay, rotors were like $50ea from Summit. You could do it cheaper by scrounging but I just got all new stuff to make life easier...

Originally Posted by Tony@AirRideTech

CrazyWhiteBoy...... It looks killer man!

Thanks!

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Glock's(boardmember) Impala kit.

So what are you doing about an e-brake?
Is this truck not gonna be regular transportaion after it's done?

I'm waiting for the Camaro brackets but I'm still trying to figure out how to get the 5x4 3/4" bolt pattern to match the front. The easiest way would be to re-drill the rotors but then when I need to replace them, I'll have to have another set re-drilled again.

[babyblueoval]

*****Allright - We've gotta show our support for Gringo*****

He's runnin' a little behind and tied with a bunch of others.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272283

Some nice trucks to choose from but only one Blazer. It's a natural choice.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

So what are you doing about an e-brake?

??

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by XXL

??

Kennth..............................

That's just wrong.

[grnddwn]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

So what are you doing about an e-brake?
Is this truck not gonna be regular transportaion after it's done?

I'm waiting for the Camaro brackets but I'm still trying to figure out how to get the 5x4 3/4" bolt pattern to match the front. The easiest way would be to re-drill the rotors but then when I need to replace them, I'll have to have another set re-drilled again.

How often do you really replace you rotors?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

So what are you doing about an e-brake?
Is this truck not gonna be regular transportation after it's done?

I was looking at a Caprice at the JY, and I *think* I can adapt the internal drum mechanism. Worst case, I'll upgrade to the Camaro style later. This is just what was available right now.

Originally Posted by XXL

??

Actually, I was thinking something more along the lines of this:

Originally Posted by grnddwn

How often do you really replace you rotors?

That's what I was thinking.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I was looking at a Caprice at the JY, and I *think* I can adapt the internal drum mechanism. Worst case, I'll upgrade to the Camaro style later. This is just what was available right now.

Actually, I was thinking something more along the lines of this:


That's what I was thinking.

Keep us up to date on whether or not you're able to get the drum e-brake to work.
I like your temp e-brake. just have to plan ahead depending on how much lead line you have and what the "test" weight is.

Originally Posted by grnddwn

How often do you really replace you rotors?

I thought about that too but wasn't sure of the answer. I've only had 2 "cars" that had rear disc brakes. On the first one, a Honda Civic, I replaced them once after about 75k miles and the second, my BMW 325i after probably 100k. In either of those cases it wouldn't be an issue, I just don't know how rotors are going to wear on a much heavier truck that will be driven about the same as the cars .
Any thoughts as to how long rear rotors will last? Has anyone run them for any length of time?
It probably won't be an issue and my decision may be made by how much it costs to add the smaller bolt pattern.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I blame Frizzle entirely for this mod

Hey now, Glock deserves a little blame too

[grnddwn]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

I thought about that too but wasn't sure of the answer. I've only had 2 "cars" that had rear disc brakes. On the first one, a Honda Civic, I replaced them once after about 75k miles and the second, my BMW 325i after probably 100k. In either of those cases it wouldn't be an issue, I just don't know how rotors are going to wear on a much heavier truck that will be driven about the same as the cars .
Any thoughts as to how long rear rotors will last? Has anyone run them for any length of time?
It probably won't be an issue and my decision may be made by how much it costs to add the smaller bolt pattern.

75k miles! My blazer doesn't have that on it originally, but I only get to drive it when there's no snow. At that rate you should be good for about ten years

[grnddwn]

Just for the record I have no e brake I guess I'll just dump it if any thing goes wrong. Just haven't gotten around to it.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

I just don't know how rotors are going to wear on a much heavier truck that will be driven about the same as the cars .

Generally speaking- about half as fast as the fronts- give or take. Having them re-drilled shouldn't be more than $50 or so. You may want to look into the F-body 1LE(89-92 Camaro) rotors; they are 5x4.75 and 11.6" diameter. I just don't know about the depth. I would go to the local parts store and look at them and the Impalas side-by-side. Knowing GM, I'd bet they're the same thing...

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

You may want to look into the F-body 1LE(89-92 Camaro) rotors; they are 5x4.75 and 11.6" diameter. I just don't know about the depth. I would go to the local parts store and look at them and the Impalas side-by-side. Knowing GM, I'd bet they're the same thing...

That was one of my first thoughts but I've been told that the bolt pattern on the flange for the cars is smaller than the 12 bolt trucks - would that matter using Glock's brackets? Do the rears use a backing plate or similar? And what about the center bore on the rotor? I guess I'll have to check center bore and depth to see if they are interchangable.
I'm pretty sure it would be easier to have the bolt pattern re-drilled than the center bore if that is different?
So much to do................

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

[SCOTI]

Is it usually wear that kills rear rotors? I know factory f-body rotors experience a vibration issue after about 30K miles as a result of warping. Supposedly just switching to aftermarket (Raybestos or Wagner) rotors cures the issue.

I do know most guys I've consulted said you shouldn't re-surface the rear because they will warp much easier.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Is it usually wear that kills rear rotors? I know factory f-body rotors experience a vibration issue after about 30K miles as a result of warping. Supposedly just switching to aftermarket (Raybestos or Wagner) rotors cures the issue.

I do know most guys I've consulted said you shouldn't re-surface the rear because they will warp much easier.

Yeah, the way I drive I've experienced plenty of warped rotors. and the thinner they get the easier they warp so I'm not a big fan of turning rotors. I know it's common practic but it usually leads to warping.
I always buy good ones for that very reason. I, and I'm sure plenty of others, have found that the cheap ones are just that, cheap!

Just thought about something on the Impala rotors - they fit over the hub on the truck axles just fine with no modification don't they?

[67Fleet]

coming together nicely!

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

. You may want to look into the F-body 1LE(89-92 Camaro) rotors; they are 5x4.75 and 11.6" diameter. I just don't know about the depth. I would go to the local parts store and look at them and the Impalas side-by-side. Knowing GM, I'd bet they're the same thing...

Well, the f-body rotors are 1.97" deep and the Impala's are 2.335" deep......
How much adjustment is there? Any?
Could I make this work or do I just need to go with the Impala rotors and have them re-drilled?
Suggestions?

[gringoloco]

Got her stripped down again to bare frame rails, cut the rack notches and welded 'em in solid. I'm trying to make my welds look like Nate's to match the DM, but it's just not happening...

I also stripped the framerails down to bare metal and painted them from the front bumper back to the trailing arm crossmember. Upper shock mounts are now permanently attached. Loosely bolted everything else in to check fit(again) and I *think* this will be the final install!

No in-progress shots again; I keep forgetting I have a camera until all the work is done...

[abadsvt]

[QUOTE=gringoloco;2519848]Got her stripped down again to bare frame rails, cut the rack notches and welded 'em in solid. I'm trying to make my welds look like Nate's to match the DM, but it's just not happening...QUOTE]

I think Nathan is a robot. That is the only explanation. I guess he could have a robotic arm. Either way he is still part robot!

It is looking great Gringo!!!!!! Keep up the great work!

Josh

[jlaird]

I agree, those welds look pretty good to me. nice job.

[Spray-Bomb]

Man thats looking sweet bro !!!

Hey do you & everybody else a favor & don't let some freak steal your ride like they did Killers

[gringoloco]

Got my spindles and UCAs in powder and installed new balljoints, bushings and shafts. When I started installing the UCAs, I ran into some interference with the upper shock mounts. I flipped them side-to-side and moved them back a little and now everything clears and lines up nicely. I *think* this is how they're supposed to go- dunno? (scratches head)

I still need to drill out the spindle for the 5/8" bolt for the tie-rod end, so it just has a temporary bolt in it for now. I will tighten down the UCA bushings when it is on the ground at ride height. I also think I may have to trim the ends of the rack a little to get it toed-in. I am at the shortest adjustment I can go and still toed-out.

I really like the way it looks all assembled and in powder. It looks very 'down to business'. I kinda wish now I had gone with the ART tube arms. Oh well, maybe later...

[b&a72]

Hey Gringo did you need to have your rotors machined for clearance or use shims in your rear brake conversion? I have the Glock brackets as well and getting ready for this install.

[jkade]

Where did you buy you rear u bolts? I built me some 3" blocks out of 2x6" tubing and need some longer u bolts now. You are going to make that blazer too nice to drive it you don't quit soon Keep up the good work I think it looks great.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by b&a72

Hey Gringo did you need to have your rotors machined for clearance or use shims in your rear brake conversion? I have the Glock brackets as well and getting ready for this install.

Haven't got the brackets in yet. Still waiting on shipment from Glock...

Originally Posted by jkade

Where did you buy you rear u bolts?

I took mine to the local spring shop and told them to make me a set 3" longer. Cost me ~$40.

Originally Posted by jkade

You are going to make that blazer too nice to drive it you don't quit soon

Never! Just too nice to leave it parked unattended