The "In over my head" build thread

[jaros44sr]

Nice progress, punch list is getting rather small...back when I was working on my heater control panel, I thought the single core cables were quite stiff, then it occurred to me why not use a multi strand cable like the throttle cable from lokar. More flexible

Any way keep up the great work, very good write up, tons of info., and thanks for sharing

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Nice progress, punch list is getting rather small...back when I was working on my heater control panel, I thought the single core cables were quite stiff, then it occurred to me why not use a multi strand cable like the throttle cable from lokar. More flexible

Any way keep up the great work, very good write up, tons of info., and thanks for sharing

Please tell me more about your heater cables! pics, part numbers etc!

In doing some reading I may need to lube up these cables. Will do that and reply back!

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Please tell me more about your heater cables! pics, part numbers etc!

In doing some reading I may need to lube up these cables. Will do that and reply back!

well, it will be awhile before I get back into the heater system, but basically just replace the solid core cable with stranded and lubricate, the ends could be made out of aluminum. if you need help with ends lmk

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

well, it will be awhile before I get back into the heater system, but basically just replace the solid core cable with stranded and lubricate, the ends could be made out of aluminum. if you need help with ends lmk

Are you saying keep the black plastic sheathing and replace the cable itself with a braided (ie more flexy) cable and attach new ends?

I think i get it now. I've never worked with that style cable before but suppose i could give it a go. Yeah let me know what you thought for the cable ends...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Are you saying keep the black plastic sheathing and replace the cable itself with a braided (ie more flexy) cable and attach new ends?

I think i get it now. I've never worked with that style cable before but suppose i could give it a go. Yeah let me know what you thought for the cable ends...

I was thinking buy the whole shroud and stranded cable

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hsGAwD]20191009_130922

to much light but you may get the idea, the aluminum ends are attached with four set screws

[SeventyOne]

10/21 - "Nipples, Clamps, and...Hoses"

I promise this is a post about the K/5

Spent some time this past weekend taking care of some loose (hose) ends in the engine bay.

Started off draining the radiator, popping the top hose off and unbolting the mounts so i could lean it forward and install to the battery tray bolts that are right next to the radiator. Then I got to work on the evap system hoses, and heater hoses.





I think everything came out pretty clean and i'm happy with the hose routing. I routed the evap PCV and timed vacuum lines back behind the heater then behind the fender to the corner where the evap can is.



Got the brake booster line ran to a 90* rear manifold fitting, plugged the rear carb fitting. the 90 allowed me to use a shorter booster hose and the elbow pointed it right over towards the booster so you dont have a long snaking hose.



And then I also swapped on a new grill bowtie and got the headlights installed



And the updated punch list:

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Install door seals (ordered new press on seals)
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Install shifter, boot, + trim ring
-Install new rear carpet
-Drill holes for: front + rear carpet strips, sill plates, tailgate seal vertical strips, center console mounting holes

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservior
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

[SeventyOne]

11/4 - Leveling the playing field

Alright so a couple weeks ago when " first installed the ACC carpet (that was too short) I did a little side project on the leveling mats for the rear cargo area.

Mine were in...rough shape but i thought I'd try to salvage them. I ordered a roll of some mass loaded vinyl for sound deadening purposes and planned to use it under the carpet. So I took my falling apart mats...



....cut out the shape in the vinyl...



...and used some high strength adhesive to affix it on top of my mats to strengthen them and prevent further deterioration.





Got them in the truck, cut another sheet of the vinyl to go between the two leveling mats) then laid the new rear carpet with my helper (ACC replaced the carpet after giving a few simple measurements and pics, shipped for free, and didn't want my old carpet back. Not sure what to do now with a old piece!)

[SeventyOne]

Then I wanted to get the carpet strips in place as well as the tailgate seal.







Everything looked good to me except the gap seems excessive between the tailgate and the seal with the gate closed...The gate seals well on the vertical side areas, but in the middle on the horizontal it's almost like the tailgate is bowed. See the below pic. Is this normal?



I addition I laid the rest of the dynamat that goes behind the rear panels and inside the doors then started to assemble the Retrosound radio unit so that I might be able to install it next time!

...the updated punch list:

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Install door seals (ordered new press on seals)
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and still plates
-Install tcase shifter, boot, + trim ring

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservoir
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

Misc
Get battery cables
Get fire extinguisher
Double check all fluids

[SeventyOne]

11/16 - Getting Worlds to Align

I think I mentioned something about a simple 15 minute install ends up taking 90 minutes in a prior post. Yesterdays adventure was very much in this vein.

I received the new precision weatherstripping press-on door seals earlier in the week and make it the goal to install these. I unbolted the top and a friend and I moved it back about 8" along the bed rails and just let it set there. Easy. That took 10 minutes

We proceeded to screw the large rubber ends to the windshield frame and press the seals onto the seam. After they were in place we unbolted the rubber ends, peeled them away from the windshield a few inches to apply sealant to the rubber end in an effort to prevent moisture from seeping down inside the windshield frame.

These seals are very nice and have a very good grip on the seam. The door rubber is very soft and the doors still close nicely with them installed. Very easy install.

We're now maybe about 30 minutes into the install...and I bet you can guess what happens next.

In short we struggled for about the next 3 hours to set the stop back in place and get all the bolt holes to align. We finally prevailed and learned some tricks along the way, but man, what a PITA.

Here's some pics of the seal:






Then we had about 30 minutes left of daylight so we got the front bumper mounted up Oh and I got that nice shiny stainless hardware on the diff cover



Might see if I can get a couple hours or work in today, and then I have the next 3 days off work and will be putting in FULL days on the truck. Anything short of massive progress will be a huge disappointment for me

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and still plates
-Install tcase shifter, boot, + trim ring

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservoir
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

Misc
Get fire extinguisher
Double check all fluids

[SeventyOne]

11/18-11/20: Warp Speed Ahead!

Alright so Monday through Weds of this week i was able to put at least 6hrs into the truck each day and I feel really good about the progress. More importantly I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

After getting the top back in place, I worked to get the CST panels in place. I didn't want to deal with screws so I bought this 3M velcro style fastener. Unlike velcro that has a fuzzy side (loops) and a hard side (hooks) the 3m product has plastic interlocking tabs for lack of a better terms that lock with the opposing side when pressed together. It hold very well and I didn't have to drill holes in my stupid-expensive CST panels.





I then turned my attention to the front lights and engine wiring harnesses. As mentioned before I'm using the AAW Classic Update kit and it's pretty awesome but some forethought goes a long way in making sure you don't mess up. Especially since I wanted to wrap the harness in the OE style vinyl wrap I had to plan ahead where wires would exit the harness and where they were routing.



I also used this braided wire wrap in some cases where the vinyl tape didn't seem like the best option:

It's a good product, hides your wires, and offers a little more protection that just being bare.

[SeventyOne]

You can see the wire wrap used here on the brake wiring and the alternator wiring:




Here's some shots of the headlight areas, and the wire bundle for the HEI, TCC lock up, temp sender, and starter.





I completed all that by Tuesday. Wednesday I completed the rear light wiring which turned out pretty nice but I didn't get any shots of it. Only thing left to do wiring related is installing the radio, hook up the horns, electric fans, and make sure all my grounds are connected!

Here's what's next:

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and still plates
-Install tcase shifter, boot, + trim ring

Underhood
-Install radiator fluid reservoir
-Install horns
-Wire Electric Fans

Misc
Get fire extinguisher
Double check all fluids

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

ALLLLL very nice! That wire wrap is exactly what I was looking for too, thanks

[lks dcvn]

Been away from the board for awhile and I come back to see an update on this build. Wow - very nice work. I've been tinkering on my stuff when I get time.

I did see this comment from post #207 - Got them in the truck, cut another sheet of the vinyl to go between the two leveling mats) then laid the new rear carpet with my helper (ACC replaced the carpet after giving a few simple measurements and pics, shipped for free, and didn't want my old carpet back. Not sure what to do now with a old piece!)

I would be interested in the short cargo carpet if you wanted to find a new home for it. I just swapped all the rear sheet metal on a 71 blazer and want to protect the floor from scratching until I get it covered up. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

[jaros44sr]

I use a company called Wire care, that sleeve comes in differant sizes and I prefer spilral care, slit so you can wrap it and it closes back up when done

[jaros44sr]

VERY NICE WORK, I was confused, when I saw the upper rad. hose clamp in the middle of the hose, then blew up the pic and saw why.
punch list is getting smaller

[simicrintz]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I use a company called Wire care

Any chance you have a link? Thank you!!

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

VERY NICE WORK, I was confused, when I saw the upper rad. hose clamp in the middle of the hose, then blew up the pic and saw why.
punch list is getting smaller

Ha yes I needed to backtrack and remove the battery tray so I could have room to work on the headlight wiring. And as you know in order to get to the bolts i had to loosen the top radiator mounts and hose.

Originally Posted by lks dcvn

I would be interested in the short cargo carpet if you wanted to find a new home for it. I just swapped all the rear sheet metal on a 71 blazer and want to protect the floor from scratching until I get it covered up. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

If you want to pay shipping on the carpet I can send it your way - though if you're seeking a temporary solution i'd imagine there's better solutions?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by simicrintz

Any chance you have a link? Thank you!!

Don't know how to do a link but, if you google wirecare.com you should find it

[simicrintz]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Don't know how to do a link but, if you google wirecare.com you should find it

I initially Googled "wire care" but it looked like a ton of entries; never di try wirecare.com, but that's it!

https://www.wirecare.com/

[SeventyOne]

2/10/19 Finish Line in Sight

I haven't posted much over the past two months but I've been tinkering here and there. The holidays monopolized much of December, then I got a gnarly cold that took me out of commission for a couple weeks, and we celebrated an anniversary as well as my daughter's 6th birthday.

Anyways here's what I've been able to accomplish over the past two months:

Radio installation - unit is from RetroSound (Long Beach Model). Seemed to fit well and I followed older posts to aid with installation. Went in pretty smooth. Still no speakers in the truck but I'll probably let a car audio shop tackle that.

Also got all the under dash grounds connected and the auxiliary/USB radio connections fitted into the cigar lighter spot.



I got my electric relays wired up and the horns installed as well. Only thing left to do under the hood is install the radiator overflow, and refill the rad with coolant.



Then I tossed a battery in and started checking my work
Few issues:
-Reverse lights come on in Drive
-Weird issue where my left tail light would not fully illuminate when brakes are pressed, but right would illuminate fully. But then when I put on the headlights, THEN pressed the brakes the left would function normally but the right would only illuminate partly.
-To be determined if my Temperature and Fuel Gauges work properly. (There's minimal gas in the tank and since i don't have exhaust on the truck yet I haven't started it since August!)

Anyways I got out there yesterday with my daughter to adjust the NSS, which also resulted in my adjusting the Lokar 700r4 shift linkage to get everything working correctly - and now my shift indicator lines up adequately with the correct gear!



Then I went on to troubleshoot the tail lights thinking I crossed wires at the rear connector or a possible insufficient ground issue. Wires seemed to trace correctly so I popped the lens off to try making a makeshift ground to test the issue and while I was fiddling with making a ground wire my daughter starts playing with the illuminated bulb in the socket and I notice when she touches the bulb it illuminates the second filament! So I mess around with the bulbs and I had no idea you could install the bulbs the wrong way! Apparently the two prongs on the side of the bulb are spaced differently so if you don't put it in the right way it won't seat all the way down on the socket contacts. Anyways that's solved!

One other minor issue is with the glove box light bulb. It illuminates but when I press the plunger (as if the glove box closes) it literally EJECTS the bulb from the socket! Anyone had this happen?

Ok so with all that done I went to bolt down my seats...what a huge pain in the ass. I've got the rear seat about 80% in when i decided to call it quits. I need different hardware for the front two bolts. They appear to require something other than 11/16" coarse thread bolts. Anyone have the bolt specs for the front two bolts?

And I also ordered some longer bolts to get my front seats bolted down.

And that's where I'm at! Im sure some of you follow Mike's Build but we're both aiming to be ready for the Goodguys Show in late March! Wish us luck!

Lastly to cap off this long post here's the punch list. I'm fairly confident this is EVERYTHING left to do...

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Attached hidden antenna under dash
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Bolt in front seats
-Make holes in carpet for shifter, dimmer switch, driver seat belt
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and sill plates
-Install t-case shifter, boot, + trim ring
-Finish bolting in rear seat
-Install steering wheel (tempted to get the new 15" OE style wheel!)
-Install door panels

Underhood
-Install radiator overflow reservoir

Final Wiring Touches
-Apply silicone and dielectric grease to wire connections/fuse block
-Install wire clamps along frame rail

Misc
-Install Rollbar mounted fire extinguisher
-Double check all fluids
-Install rear bumper
-Diff breather hose for 14 bolt
-Double check door locks match ignition cyl key
-Get exhaust

[Thealien]

WOW what a transformation. Nice looking Blazer!

[jaros44sr]

One thing that I noticed, other than all the great work, was you have the caps on the door weather strip. I thought they wouldn't let the air out, thus making it hard to close the door

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

One thing that I noticed, other than all the great work, was you have the caps on the door weather strip. I thought they wouldn't let the air out, thus making it hard to close the door

Are you talking about the little plugs on the b-pillar ends? They have since fallen out (they just press in) and I have been meaning to add some RTV and put them back. either way the door seals are VERY soft and I didn't notice any resistance with them installed. I doubt the little plugs would really change much. Or i might leave em off if they make it too hard to close.

Originally Posted by Thealien

WOW what a transformation. Nice looking Blazer!

Thank you!

[jaros44sr]

Yeah, they probably got ejected, the first time you closed the door lol

[SeventyOne]

Please be Seated

Found a few hours yesterday to work on the K5.

Got the rear seat installation finished. For anyone reading it's 1/2" coarse thread X4 for the back bolts and the 2 front bolts are 7/16" coarse.




Longer bolts (1.5") came in for the front seats so I got those installed and even had enough time to get the sill plates installed as well. Not as much progress as I'd of liked but it's a pain in the butt to get the bolts lined up, through the carpet, mass loaded vinyl, and heat foam. But I slowly prevailed.





Also tossed in the floor mats. Look pretty good if I don't say so myself!

Updated punch list below!

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Attached hidden antenna under dash
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Install front seat belts
-Install t-case shifter, boot, + trim ring
-Install center console
-Install dimmer switch grommet
-Install steering wheel
-Install Rollbar mounted fire extinguisher
-Install door panels + door panel trim

Underhood
-Install radiator overflow reservoir

Final Wiring Touches
-Apply silicone and dielectric grease to wire connections/fuse block
-Install wire clamps along frame rail

Misc
-Get exhaust
-Double check all fluids
-Install rear bumper
-Diff breather hose for 14 bolt
-Double check door locks match ignition cyl key