What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

[cab4word67]

To day I installed a new set of Fiat 500 black leather seats. Now I get to build a custom center console.

[Ekliptix]

Pulled 'em outside while I pack up the garage to move.

[FL71C10]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

To day I installed a new set of Fiat 500 black leather seats. Now I get to build a custom center console.

Looks good. Now you have some engine work to do to get it to match the seats.

[Jiggers72-GMC]

I think those ^^^^^ seats might look better without the headrests .......

[cab4word67]

Good call on the headrest, I will remove them and see. Could always make some rectangular ones. Or turn these seats into shop chairs.

[1968 K20]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

Pulled 'em outside while I pack up the garage to move.

Very nice pair

[1968 K20]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Truck is going to look great.

Originally Posted by body bolt

I sure like that color combination.

Thank You

[Already Gone]

Tried to hookup horn and signal light cancellor thing between the new sport steering wheel and the original tilt wheel on my truck but coudn't figure out how the yellow wire connects to the cancellor so horn will work.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Tried to hookup horn and signal light cancellor thing between the new sport steering wheel and the original tilt wheel on my truck but coudn't figure out how the yellow wire connects to the cancellor so horn will work.

I've got that same steering wheel on my truck. I don't know if there are different types of horn button mounts, but mine didn't use a wire. It just used the stock setup in the canceling cam, which had the following components mounted into the canceling cam tube/tower:

1) Spring
2) Aluminum post, with large end facing into the tube first
3) Red plastic lock ring, stuffed into the top of the tube

The aluminum post was then spring loaded, and it contacted a tab on the back of the horn button mount. It looks like you've got the stock components inside your original broken canceling cam, but the aluminum post might be mounted in there upside down.

[Rich72C10]

Got my new Lloyd's Embroidered floor mats today, ordered from high-end-motorsports.com.

YAY, love the blue bowtie! They have a few different options for logo, text, and colors.

They also come with anchors to "screw" into the trucks carpet to keep the mat from moving around on the driver side. Though I am not so sure how well those anchors will stay.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I've got that same steering wheel on my truck. I don't know if there are different types of horn button mounts, but mine didn't use a wire. It just used the stock setup in the canceling cam, which had the following components mounted into the canceling cam tube/tower:

1) Spring
2) Aluminum post, with large end facing into the tube first
3) Red plastic lock ring, stuffed into the top of the tube

The aluminum post was then spring loaded, and it contacted a tab on the back of the horn button mount. It looks like you've got the stock components inside your original broken canceling cam, but the aluminum post might be mounted in there upside down.

Thanks

[cab4word67]

You guys are right again. I removed the head rest...much better look

[Jiggers72-GMC]

[QUOTE=cab4word67;8974192]You guys are right again. I removed the head rest...much better look


Agreed, the truck will look better when looking from behind the truck thru the back window also.

Rich, very nice mats, love the seats n all as well

[cab4word67]

These mite be a repeat that just didnt show up?

[ohboy321]

Took my valve cover off to see what caused all the noise under the hood yesterday (trip home on AAA flatbed).

One of my rocker arm studs broke off, and other than running rough there was a lot of nasty clattering. Not sure yet what caused it or what else may have broke. Truck was running great with 200 miles on an engine "refresh" that included installing a mild COMP cam. I drained the oil and it was perfectly clean with no metal. I am sure I'll have more surprises when I pull the head off.

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by ohboy321

Took my valve cover off to see what caused all the noise under the hood yesterday (trip home on AAA flatbed).

One of my rocker arm studs broke off, and other than running rough there was a lot of nasty clattering. Not sure yet what caused it or what else may have broke. Truck was running great with 200 miles on an engine "refresh" that included installing a mild COMP cam. I drained the oil and it was perfectly clean with no metal. I am sure I'll have more surprises when I pull the head off.

There may not be an issue with the head. Perhaps a compression test (after fixing the rocker stud) would be the first test.

[cab4word67]

OK I recently built a ford 289 / 480 lift and after snapping off 4 of my studs in a total of 60 miles I found I had spring bind. Check your adjustment. If adjusting cold make sure you can spin the push rods when the valves are closed. If you adjusted while running its just past clatter then 1/2 turn, and before you pull the head make sure you can get a feeler gauge in between the springs when at full lift (about 5-10K). You are ether to tight or lifting more than the valve can go down.

[ohboy321]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

OK I recently built a ford 289 / 480 lift and after snapping off 4 of my studs in a total of 60 miles I found I had spring bind. Check your adjustment. If adjusting cold make sure you can spin the push rods when the valves are closed. If you adjusted while running its just past clatter then 1/2 turn, and before you pull the head make sure you can get a feeler gauge in between the springs when at full lift (about 5-10K). You are ether to tight or lifting more than the valve can go down.

Thank you cab4word67 and Carl Spangler for the helpful (and encouraging) suggestions. I guess I will be learning about replacing the stud in place as well as investigating the root cause.

My cam is a COMP cams CS 268H-10 grind which has a valve lift with factory rocker arm ratio of 0.454 int./0.454 exh.

I also installed the COMP recommended 981 valve springs which have a bind height of 1.150in.

Edit: Forgot to mention that it is a 220HP 327ci with factory heads.

[Blazer690]

Stock rockers can't take some high lifts

[Markuli]

Originally Posted by Davidf

I am sure you will enjoy the power steering. What box did you use and where did you get it? Also, consider getting that rubber hose out of the wheel well.

All done. Still leaks from the input shaft though

[cab4word67]

I got my roller tip rockers from Amazon, they are Crane. I would send you the link but they were for a SBF

[67C10Step]

Raptor lined the inside and epoxy primed the outside of my rear fenders. Raptor lined my steps as well so I won’t freak out when someone actually steps on them.

[cab4word67]

Good call on the steps. I used anti slip tape 20 years ago and seems to still be in place

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by cab4word67

You guys are right again. I removed the head rest...much better look

You used the same color "scheme", blue/grey, that I'm using.. I like it.. I especially like the arm rests.. What did they come from??

[cab4word67]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

You used the same color "scheme", blue/grey, that I'm using.. I like it.. I especially like the arm rests.. What did they come from??

They are honda Accord I believe. Out of the 4 switch's I got 2 windows, the tilt hood, and door looks/unlock. And the window lock is my torq converter lock up for the hwy.