Engine tuning help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

walker · 04-26-2004, 12:59 PM

I am having a minor problem with the 350 in my '67 C-10. If I start it cold it starts right up with one or two pumps of the pedal. After I drive it for a bit and shut it off it does not want to restart as easily. It does not seem to make a difference if I give it more pumps on the pedal, or none, it cranks over many times before it will start. I partially opening the accelerator also, to no avail. I have also played with the idle mixture screws. When I turned them in 1/4 turn the idle quality was not as good and it tended to stall while cold. When I turned them out 1/4 it started about the same, but did not want to shut off when I turned the key off.
This is not a major problem, and it drives great, but I would like it to start nice and easy every time. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It has the edelbrock 600 on a performer manifold, HEI, 10*initial advance.
Thanks, Andy

sneakysnake · 04-26-2004, 01:27 PM

Choke? man or auto? out of adjustment? once its warm its staying open and not shutting when it should. Is the acc pump working properly (can you see gas squirt in the barrel)?

72C203503ONTHETREE · 04-26-2004, 02:03 PM

Its the edlebrock carb gauraunteed. They will puke fuel out the vents if they sit on a hot engine and floods the engine out. I know, I have had two that did that and had a freind that had trouble with his on a 55 Chevy. Its easy and fairly cheap to fix though, get a plastic or wood spacer and/or heat sheild, you will not have any troubles once you do that. Only other thing is that the choke may not be adjusted right, might be sticking a little bit on the closed side. When you are ready to start it agian when its hot, remove the air cleaner and see if the choke plate is open. If it is open its most likely the fuel boiling out the vents. The Edelbrocks and Carters(Edelbrock copied them) are decent carbs other than being bad on hot intakes, but I am using a Carter myself. I actually like Holley 4150 or speed demoans better but the Carter was cheap and almost new.

walker · 04-26-2004, 05:59 PM

She's got a manual choke, and it opens all the way. The accelerator pump is working alright, I can see the fuel coming out when I storke the linkage. I'll try the insulated spacer thing, I wasn't sure if that is what I needed or not.

04-26-2004, 12:59 PM	#1
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	Engine tuning help I am having a minor problem with the 350 in my '67 C-10. If I start it cold it starts right up with one or two pumps of the pedal. After I drive it for a bit and shut it off it does not want to restart as easily. It does not seem to make a difference if I give it more pumps on the pedal, or none, it cranks over many times before it will start. I partially opening the accelerator also, to no avail. I have also played with the idle mixture screws. When I turned them in 1/4 turn the idle quality was not as good and it tended to stall while cold. When I turned them out 1/4 it started about the same, but did not want to shut off when I turned the key off. This is not a major problem, and it drives great, but I would like it to start nice and easy every time. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It has the edelbrock 600 on a performer manifold, HEI, 10*initial advance. Thanks, Andy __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

04-26-2004, 02:03 PM	#3
72C203503ONTHETREE Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Grant, Alabama Posts: 504	Its the edlebrock carb gauraunteed. They will puke fuel out the vents if they sit on a hot engine and floods the engine out. I know, I have had two that did that and had a freind that had trouble with his on a 55 Chevy. Its easy and fairly cheap to fix though, get a plastic or wood spacer and/or heat sheild, you will not have any troubles once you do that. Only other thing is that the choke may not be adjusted right, might be sticking a little bit on the closed side. When you are ready to start it agian when its hot, remove the air cleaner and see if the choke plate is open. If it is open its most likely the fuel boiling out the vents. The Edelbrocks and Carters(Edelbrock copied them) are decent carbs other than being bad on hot intakes, but I am using a Carter myself. I actually like Holley 4150 or speed demoans better but the Carter was cheap and almost new. __________________ 72 Chevy C20, SOLD (Dang it.) 09 Challanger RT six speed in all black. 74 Datsun 710 wagon, all 1.8 liters of screaming Datsun power. 73 C10 long bed, 350/350 combo, nice shape.

04-26-2004, 05:59 PM	#4
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	She's got a manual choke, and it opens all the way. The accelerator pump is working alright, I can see the fuel coming out when I storke the linkage. I'll try the insulated spacer thing, I wasn't sure if that is what I needed or not. __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

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04-26-2004, 01:27 PM	#2
sneakysnake It's a catastrophic success. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,077	Choke? man or auto? out of adjustment? once its warm its staying open and not shutting when it should. Is the acc pump working properly (can you see gas squirt in the barrel)?



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