ride height for looks and usability?

[CG]

ive been working on what i want to do tire/wheel and ride height...im going to go with 18's but i dont want super thin sidewalls and i dont plan on dragging it on the ground. i do want to get close to filling up the wheel wells. what does it mean 4/6 drop? 4 in front 6 in back? best achieved with drop spindles and lower springs or air bags? i plan on using this for work which means i could have close to 500 lbs in the rear at times. im also going to use it to tow at times. air bags in rear to compensate for loads? anyone use their trucks like this? i dont even know where to start here...any thoughts would be appreciated...thanks.....oops forgot to mention this is for my just aquired burb. i have pics of it on earlier post but i dont know how to link to it from here.

[DevinM]

I purchased my 4/6 drop kit/package from http://www.earlyclassic.com
There are a few "Stance Photos" you can look at and judge for yourself.
Good Luck!

[dinnut]

if i were u, id go with 2 1/2 inch drop spindles and 1 1/2 inch springs in the front and in the rear go with airbags. u will need an adjustable pan hard bar and shock relocators all the way around. you will also need new shocks. also, you can only use the spindles if u have disc brakes up front. and for the bags you will need a tank and compressor

[Randy70C-10]

a 3/4 drop looks great and you won't have to worry about weather or not you'll make it over the speed bump.

[CG]

Originally Posted by DevinM

I purchased my 4/6 drop kit/package from http://www.earlyclassic.com
There are a few "Stance Photos" you can look at and judge for yourself.
Good Luck!

hey thanks guys...that early classic site has exactly what i was invisioning with their project burb

[Tx Firefighter]

I've got a 4/6 drop on my truck and I haul anything that the tailgate will close on.

Awhile back, I hauled a fully dressed (all accesories on it) 454 big block and Turbo 400 trans all over the place with no bottoming out or anything.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dinnut

.... u will need an adjustable pan hard bar and shock relocators all the way around.

If your on a budget you could just shorten the stock bar. The longer aftermarket bars do offer better geometry. Shock relocators are not required all the way around, only for the rear (@ 6" drop).

....you will also need new shocks.

You don't need new shocks, but if they are old hydraulic style, this is a good time to upgrade. Stock style gas replacements work fine.

....also, you can only use the spindles if u have disc brakes up front.

Drop spindles are only made for discs.... but another option is stepped a-arms (Turners) or dropped arms ( DJM) & you don't HAVE to switch if it's not in your budget. Although if towing is in your plans.... switch to discs as part of your swap.

....and for the bags you will need a tank and compressor.....

You only need a tank/comp if your going to air it up/down alot. I used my truck to haul an 18ft car hauler for almost 2yrs w/o a tank/comp. I used the basic schrader valves (one for each side) to fill when I hooked up a load. The rest of the time I kept it @ the same air psi for normal driving. If you can afford to buy the tank/comp, go for it.... but it's not mandatory.

Dinnut.... I don't mean to be rude, but I have a truck thats used as he described so I added some personal (and proven) info.

[dinnut]

no offense taken. i thought of all the things you did but i didnt have the time to post all that i was kinda in a hurry and thought i would say what i would suggest he do. it sounds like his truck is going to be pretty nice (lowered with 18s) so i figured he would want to do it right since it sounds like he is able to do it right. the tank and compressor is nice but not mandatory. my grandpa did this on a truck he had a while back ( the thing with the schrader valves) i was just saying that it would be nice and handy if he got the compressor and/or tank.