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Old 09-04-2004, 07:56 AM   #1
bgunther
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Leaf vs Coils

my truck currently has leaf springs. I have ben trying to decide on converting to coils. Am i correct to assume this would give me a better ride and allow for a wider wheel/tire combo?
Anyone know of a link to doing this?
Let me know of any more pros and cons to doing this.

THanks,
Brandt
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:34 AM   #2
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I don't have any information to offer, but I'd like to watch this thread. I'm curious myself about the questions you have asked.
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:50 AM   #3
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Welcome from the Pacific Northwest.

Too bad the search isn't working, seems like this has been addressed before.

My 72 GMC has leafs and does ride harder than my 70 with coils. But I don't think it's enough to tell the difference on long hauls.
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:13 AM   #4
krazy_texan
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i personally prefer the rear coils, i really dont know why, i think they just look cooler, i have had both and have no complaints about either, i think what you are looking for is going to be all opinions because alot of it depends on what you use the truck for.
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:24 AM   #5
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Basically it will just be a toy/money pit, maybe a little light hauling.
To lower it 4-5" is gonna cost around $400 with lowered leafs & shackles. So would it really cost much more to convert.
What else would i need beside new spring perches, retainer cups, trailing arms?
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:26 AM   #6
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Any opinions on the lowered leafs? I have seen the bolt in & weld on frame notches, is that really necessary?
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:30 AM   #7
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I have 4" lowering coils in the back and the frame notch is not a necessity. Coils are the only way to go, if you ask me!
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:45 AM   #8
Robert1970C20rstbukt
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Leaf springs can handle more weight without sagging, that's probably the only good thing about 'em, but I like coils better. They're easer to remove/install and they ride a helluva lot better. When I'm going 70 down the road it rides great for an old rusty truck.
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:55 AM   #9
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I believe the coil spring frames are different from leaf spring frames. Brian
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Old 09-04-2004, 10:20 AM   #10
67chevemall
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Ya I gotta hear this!
Might be the first one!
4 way coils on a 67 - 72 frame is the best ride ever!Ever!
You have a base to work with, that is KRAZY awesome!
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:33 AM   #11
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bgunther......you talking front or rear?

or both?

I think it can be pretty diffucult to retrofit the rear trailing arms to a leaf rear truck..........I know, at least on Blazers, the frame is different......
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:43 AM   #12
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sounds like I should just deal with the leaf springs.
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Old 09-04-2004, 12:26 PM   #13
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Frames are different, and I personally don't think the end result would justify going through the trouble.
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Old 09-04-2004, 05:45 PM   #14
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From my experience the coil trucks seem to ride a bit better than the leaf trucks, but its not really a big deal to me...

Yes, the frames are different where the rear coilspring mount is compared to a leaf-spring truck. The trailing-arm trucks frame actually makes an inward bend above the rear coil mount and then straightens back out and is actually a bit narrower from there back. (see pic)
I believe the Leaf-spring trucks frames stay in the same straight line from the rear of the cab till the end of the frame because the leafspring mounts need to be parallel to eachother. At least its this way on my 70' 4x4 chassis....so I'm assuming it would be the same on the other leaf trucks...

If I had my choice i'd rather my 72' SWb be a leaf truck because of what I want to do with my airbag setup...that way i could use a universal step notch kit instead of having to fab one up myself...also a cool triangulated 4-link setup would be cool too...but I'm stuck with my coilsprings...either way i'll get my truck on the ground soon enough!
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:27 PM   #15
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I don't know if the frames are different or not but I do know it is not that difficult to switch. You might give Early Classics a call they have a frame in their showroom with leafs on one side and trailing arms on the other. They would also have all the parts you would need for the conversion.
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:49 PM   #16
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http://www.earlyclassic.com/techarti...tjun03pg1.html
And there you shall find your answers.
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:06 PM   #17
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For 2wd trucks, the frames are the same whether coil or leaf. The difference between the 2 is only in the bracketry for the suspension attaching points. Coil trucks have a different crossmember that stiffens up the frame where the coils attach, leaf trucks have bracing farther up where the front eye of the leaf attaches @ the hanger. Both have different shock mounting points/styles. 4wd leaf trucks do have straight frame rails vs. 2wd frames that are curved above the rear end.
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Old 09-05-2004, 12:22 AM   #18
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As far as load copacity, they are the same. If you are going to over load the truck, coils are awsome. I habe well over 2200 pounds of red brick in the back of my SWB, and the coils went into coil bind at about 3/4 of that load. Each loop of the spring just stacked up on the one under it. I basicly had no suspention back there. This would have posibly broken or damaged leafs rated for 1/2 ton.
Another bonus on the coils, is those long trailing arms work as traction bars and make axle hop a non issue. However, you can modify leafs to not wrap...but ladder bars are a PITA on the street.
I have only towed with 2 trucks, one leaf (longhorn) and one coil (SWB GMC). Now the two are totally different, and it is really apples to oranges...but the SWB can't tow for crap. I don't know if that is the 500,000 mile chassis/rear/trailing arms talking, or the bushings that were suposedly replaced 250,000 miles ago...or if it is the smaller wheel base, or if it is the coil set up its self...I have no friggen clue which is to blame, or what combo of the above did it. I DO know that my Longhorn was a towin SOB and it was stable with a car trailer loaded with an 85 Crown Vic that had a 460 big block in the trunk, a complete 302 in the back seat...or at least where the seat had been...and the complete running car too. All this was on the HD trailer and I was towing it at about 80 - 85 MPH for 60 miles, tracking straight and handling great.
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:02 AM   #19
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Longhorn Man, What were you towing with the SWB? My SWB is a leaf spring rear and it is real bad going over decent size speed bumps (box empty), if my truck was a bike it would be a hardtail for sure!!! My shocks need replaced though, Doug
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:08 AM   #20
Longhorn Man
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I have towed a Ford Ranger on a tow bar, and an S-10 pick up, and an S-10 Blazer...both also on tow bars. It did fine dragging the weight, how ever a small U-haul trailer with a standard sized fridge, a washer from the 60's, a recliner and a little assorted crap had me down to 55 MPH. Anything over that and the rear wouls start to sway like the tires were low.
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:08 AM   #21
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Ok this cancels out what I just posted. Featherly Park truck show, although its a link to a nice truck, I asked this same question, leaf vs coils.
Thanks peeps.
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Old 09-05-2004, 03:08 AM   #22
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Wheel base is a big factor, everything else being equal. The shorter the wheel base the worse it will feel...much like going into one of those deathly "tank slappers" on your bike...LOL! Loose suspension components will just make it worse...you know the routine!
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Old 09-05-2004, 07:54 AM   #23
Longhorn Man
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Yeah, I'm just saying i don't know if the couls had anything to do with it.
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:00 AM   #24
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Everything I have read/heard on the rear trailing arm coil setup on a 2wd truck is that is the way to go. Overall a much better ride and setup. Many have said they wish GM kept that design up
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:22 AM   #25
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My lwb coil setup towed one of the uhaul car haulers with a 72 ltd () with no problems. It must have been due to the swb. I know in the 18 wheeler world that the longer stuff is the easier it is to drive.
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