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Old 09-12-2004, 09:57 AM   #1
74Pumpkin
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Cutting front springs?

I'm going to install 3" DMJ spindles soon. I want to achive a 4-6 with a flip kit in the rear. To save a little cash I was considering cutting the front springs for the addional 1". How would you go about figuring out where to cut the spring? Do you have to consider the spring will be compressesd when installed and cut less than 1" when out? Am I crazy for doing this? Should I quit being so cheap and buy springs?..
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Old 09-12-2004, 10:13 AM   #2
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You would probably be better off replacing the springs, to get the needed drop. I have cut springs, but from what i see 1 full ring off the bottom will give a 2 1/2-3" drop. IMO, the bottom wrap on the spring should be in the same place, so the spring seats properly in both the top & bottom pockets(that leaves a 1 coil cut deal). On the new springs, you might go with a 1 1/2 spring, if you desire an extra 1 " drop.....remember that the old springs could very well be sagged a bit best of luck,crazyL
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Old 09-12-2004, 11:36 AM   #3
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I'm with crazy longhorn on this one. Buy the springs. Coil cutting is a rather old school thing from back in the day when new shorter springs were not so readily available. I would only consider it in an application where you have no other choice.

BTW, if you choose to cut them (or for anyone else reading this) you must remember that the spring is roughly half-way between the pivot point (bushings) and the ball joint. This means that you get more drop than the actual amount that you cut from the spring.
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Old 09-12-2004, 01:29 PM   #4
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I've cut a bunch of them with great success.

Every coil nets approximately 3 inches on a FS GM truck. I have never cut half coils or quarter coils, just whole coil. That way the spring will still index correctly top and bottom.
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Old 09-12-2004, 06:53 PM   #5
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I have to side with Tx Firefighter on this issue. I have cut coils quite a few times to. There is no exact science to it, but the key to doing it correctly without destroying the spring is avoid too much heat.

It's going to be hard to get exactly 1" but your going to have to start with 1/4 coil and work down. Make sure you install the spring and let the vehicle "settle" before you decide it's not enough....
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Old 09-12-2004, 07:55 PM   #6
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I cut a pair for my 72 did one and a half coil's and it lowered it 3" Only complaint i have is when i jack the truck up by the center of the crossmember the springs fall out of the alingment dowel up top. So i have to jack the a arms up into the spring.


And indexing them is important Like stated i put the spring end at the bottom of the spring cup.
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Old 09-13-2004, 12:05 AM   #7
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I guess I'll look at cutting them when I get them out. Worst case, I have to take them out again and replace with new ones.

thanks for the input!
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:03 AM   #8
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Yeah Thats what i think of it . I plan on either buying some drop springs or spindles.
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Old 09-17-2004, 12:44 PM   #9
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So can you cut front springs to get a drop untill i get spindles. I have NO $ $ and desire a cheap drop for now. What can i do for a cheap fix for the rear? thanks. i'd use the search to look if i could.
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Old 09-17-2004, 02:39 PM   #10
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The quick and dirty answer is yes, you can cut the front springs for a drop. I'm with TxFirefighter in that I've always cut a whole coil off so the spring still indexes properly top and bottom. Chop 'em with a cut-off wheel or similar to avoid too much heat (ie, no torch).

For the rear, you can install lowering blocks. Don't get carried away, remember the scrub line. You could also heat the rear springs, but I'd do that only as a last resort.

Of course, your mileage may vary.
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Old 09-17-2004, 05:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972C10
I cut a pair for my 72 did one and a half coil's and it lowered it 3" Only complaint i have is when i jack the truck up by the center of the crossmember the springs fall out of the alingment dowel up top. So i have to jack the a arms up into the spring.


And indexing them is important Like stated i put the spring end at the bottom of the spring cup.
You should install a taller bumpstop under your upper a-arms. This will limit the amount of 'droop' the front suspension will have. W/the taller stop in place, the arms will not drop far enough to allow the springs to fall out of pocket.

I used 2.5" drop spindles w/1 coil cut for about 6" of front drop on my 68 & 3" drop spindles w/1 coil cut on my 74. Oddly enough, even though the suspensions are very similar, the 68 is lower yet has more clearance (up front).
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Old 09-17-2004, 05:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrShelley
....Chop 'em with a cut-off wheel or similar to avoid too much heat (ie, no torch)......
MrShelley is right on the money here. If you don't have a high speed cut of tool, you can put a ceramic tile blade in your circular saw. It's basically the same type of abrasive wheel.

Worse case scenario if you have to use a torch is to submerge the spring in a 5 gallon bucket of water leaving the cut line exposed. This will keep the heat to a minimum…..
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Old 09-17-2004, 05:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
You should install a taller bumpstop under your upper a-arms. This will limit the amount of 'droop' the front suspension will have. W/the taller stop in place, the arms will not drop far enough to allow the springs to fall out of pocket.

I used 2.5" drop spindles w/1 coil cut for about 6" of front drop on my 68 & 3" drop spindles w/1 coil cut on my 74. Oddly enough, even though the suspensions are very similar, the 68 is lower yet has more clearance (up front).

Taller bumpstop wouldnt keep the a arms from falling down when i jack the truck up in the center.
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Old 09-17-2004, 06:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972C10
Taller bumpstop wouldnt keep the a arms from falling down when i jack the truck up in the center.
Your thinking about the lower A-arm bumpstop. Scoti said "You should install a taller bumpstop under your upper a-arms." This would prevent your a-arms from hanging down too far regardless of how you jacked the truck up.....
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Old 09-18-2004, 01:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
Your thinking about the lower A-arm bumpstop. Scoti said "You should install a taller bumpstop under your upper a-arms." This would prevent your a-arms from hanging down too far regardless of how you jacked the truck up.....
Thanks Ken . . ....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

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Old 09-18-2004, 08:59 PM   #16
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I cut my coils on saturday. I wanted more drop so I cut 1 coil off the bottom of the spring. I am running WC 2.5" spindles and the springs were WC 1.5" before the cut. It looks like it has a 5-5.5" now. I also installed a new sway-bar bracket that moves the bar up on the frame. I think it came from CCE. Check the FAX page for those detais, great info. The ride seemed nice but I haven't driven much so no real experience with it yet.
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Old 09-19-2004, 01:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
You should install a taller bumpstop under your upper a-arms. This will limit the amount of 'droop' the front suspension will have. W/the taller stop in place, the arms will not drop far enough to allow the springs to fall out of pocket.

I used 2.5" drop spindles w/1 coil cut for about 6" of front drop on my 68 & 3" drop spindles w/1 coil cut on my 74. Oddly enough, even though the suspensions are very similar, the 68 is lower yet has more clearance (up front).
SCOTI, do you by chance have a pic of the '74 that you can post? Thats exactly what I did to mine & Im guessing it will be a 5" drop in the front. I dont have an engine in it yet so Id like to see the combo if I could...corn
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Old 09-19-2004, 02:10 AM   #18
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Old pic from last years Heatwave . . ....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 09-19-2004, 02:48 AM   #19
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Thanks SCOTI, when I saw "driver" in your sig I was thinking of an old beater like mine. That truck is sweet & its been in my screensaver folder for quite a while now. What are the fronts, 18's?

I cut 1 coil from my HD springs along with belltech 3" spindles but my truck still sits like a 4X4 without an engine. How much do you suppose my 396 will set it down?...corn
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Old 09-19-2004, 12:28 PM   #20
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My 74 is equipped w/the HD suspension as well. It has the trailering pkg/8 leaf rear springs.... I'm not sure if the fronts are considered HD on mine or not.

My guess is w/a b.block you would be a tad lower than my truck is w/the small block. Thanks for the props on my 'driver'. I get alot of thumbs-up in traffic & it's been a good truck so far, I just wish it was nicer.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 09-29-2004, 08:23 PM   #21
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So do you cut off the top or bottom of the spring? I was told that i couldnt use blocks for my '82, is that correct? Do i need a flip kit? thanks
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Old 09-29-2004, 08:51 PM   #22
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Yeah flip kit for the back you can get like 2 inch shackles if you just want a little drop a flip will yeild about 5 inches

On the spring you want to cut the bottom
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:09 PM   #23
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-SCOTI-

Do you have any rubbing issues with your tires up front. What's the backspace on your front/rear wheels?
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:01 PM   #24
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So lets say i cut the front springs 1 coil, supposedly a 3 inch drop then i get the rear shackles, are there only 2 inch shackles or more? So i could get a 3/2 or more depending on the shackles??? Id love to get at least a 3/4 or 3/5 drop, is this possible with shackles? Where do i find shackles or flip kits?
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Old 10-02-2004, 10:53 AM   #25
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Anyone??
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