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#1 |
Ebay Junky
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CO
Posts: 893
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How do you get rust off bolts?
i have a fershly painted fender that i am about to put back on my truck, the only problem is all i have are the original rusty bolts, and i dont really want to put the new fender on with rusty bolts, so my question is, is there anything i can do to clean up the bolts some? or should i just go and buy new ones?
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1972 CHEVY C-10 SWB 2WD - Possible Typhoon 4.3 turbo drivetrain.. 1983 Chevy c10 swb 2wd - possible 350tbi supercharged... |
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#2 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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i have a 3m pastic wire wheel that goes on the bench grinder that i use on old bolts when i have to reuse them
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's ![]() 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 458
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the guy doing all my body work uses the acid that you put in swimming pools...can't remember the name of it, but it is cheap and you just mix a little of it with water and let your parts soak in it over night...come out looking new.
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#4 | |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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Quote:
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's ![]() 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 458
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That sounds right....I know it started with an "M". He just puts a little in a bucket, and adds water....probably a 30% acid/70% water ratio....works like a champ!! go 50/50 if you really want to make sure it works. Like he told me, it is cheap, easy to come by, and does the job well. Good Luck!
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#6 |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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never heard of muratic acid being used like that,I use a wire wheel also.I may try the acid though.easier is better IMO
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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#7 |
Member since 2000
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico
Posts: 7,879
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I was also told to use the swimming pool stuff
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#8 |
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,925
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I don't need a reason,I need a few $$$
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Rusty Member #13872 Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#* 71 GMC LWB 49 Chevy 85 Chevy G20 Check out my website |
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#9 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: WIS
Posts: 1,752
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acid dipping
Is that the acid that the "acid dippers" use to do cabs etc. ?
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 162
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one more way
another inexpensive way to remove rust from bolts it to go to the parts house and buy NAVAL JELLY. It is a phosphoric acid mixture that comes in a pint sized container. Just put then in the there and tommorrow when you wake up the are clean.
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#11 |
English Chevy Owner
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France
Posts: 1,848
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Over here you can buy a deruster that you actually mix with water, chuck the things in for 24 hours or so and voila, clean steel. It's safe, non toxic, non corrosive, you can stick your hand in it with no problems and it even smells nice! It's made by Hammerite. BTW if you use acid never add water to acid, always add acid to water to dilute it. If you add water to acid it could end up boiling the water with the heat from the dilution reaction and spray everywhere.
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Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission |
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#12 |
I miss this truck.
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A.
Posts: 2,863
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They always said that Coca-Cola will remove rust. Never tried it. If anybody knows who "they" are, ask them.
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'07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT. |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8,834
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The acid does a very good job, used it before.
Seen the Naval Jelly work nicely on body panels. And heard it will work on chrome, except you need to clear coat it immediately after...
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1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Never used the Muratic acid but I've heard it works very well. Off the shelf I think it is only 10% so it can be used straight but it's much quicker so you have to stay with it.
Pick up a couple of boxes of baking soda and add them to a second bucket of water. When you remove the bolts from the acid drop them in the soda water to neutralize the acid. Otherwise it'll continue to eat at the steel, plus you don't want acid in the holes of that freshly painyed body panel! ![]() FWI, I've heard the Muratic Acid/rust reaction gives off some pretty nasty fumes. Good ventalation and maybe even a respirator are good ideas. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 546
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Wire wheel and thread chasers do a great job.
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'70 K-20 San Diego, CA |
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#16 |
Cantankerous Geezer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,264
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There are several ways to remove the rust, but without a proper finish, the bolts will rust even worse. Painting them is one way, but it doesn't work that well. Best if you plate them with cadmium, but that's not cheap. I would recommend using stainless steel bolts, which will eliminate the rusting problem. I don't recommend the hardware store variety, their strength is unknown. Got to one of the vendors and get them, and assemble with threadlocker. Keeps the threads sealed which prevents galling.
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Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine. ![]() |
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#17 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,684
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My body guy was good enough to leave all my hardware out in the rain - they were such a mess I went and bought a stainless steel cab kit - sure was nice using all new bolts to put the cab back together.
Comes in small labeled packages - very convienent. This kit is from http://www.docsbolts.com/
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 Last edited by Yukon Jack; 10-06-2004 at 04:50 PM. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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i'm with JACK nothing's better than shiney shiney
or the old school way a can of wd-40 a cheap wire wheel($3 or so) elctric drill and a vise , hold bolt in vise spray with wd-40 and apply wire wheel the thing to remember about derusting bolts is that uncoated, the rust comes back twice as bad twice as fast
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#19 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Fred T is right.
A bolt comes with a protective coating when new. Whether cadium plated or black oxide or zinc plating, whatever. The point is, if you use acid or a wire wheel or any means to clean the bolt, it's only going to rust even worse, even faster. The bolt has to have a coating to keep from corroding. It's already rusty, the last thing you want to do is strip the rest of the remaining coating off with acid or brushes and put it back in the truck. Replace the bolts. Period. I go to Tractor Supply and buy new, cadium plated, grade 8 bolts by the pound. You're looking at less than a 100 bucks to replace all the bolts you'd use in the resto of your truck. It's worth it.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
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#20 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Delano, MN
Posts: 630
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Yeah, stainless or cad plated is definitely the way to go.
Another way I've learned, doing resto work on my VW (with a lot of obscure bolts and castle nuts I couldn't get replacements for) was to throw some sandblasting sand & the bolts/nuts in a rock tumbler and leave running for a day or more, come out shiny and largely rust free. |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 546
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I use anti-seize on all my body bolts and paint the heads. I do use stainless in the high rust areas, like the top fender bolts by the cowl. I use a gel cell battery because I have a 4x4 but it also saves the core support, battery tray and inner fender from excessive rust damage, including the bolts.
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'70 K-20 San Diego, CA |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Corinth,TX
Posts: 444
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Yukon,
What does the kit use for the J-nut in the inner fenders where they connect to the fender??? Just wondering if they include nuts or j-nuts like stock... |
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#23 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,684
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The inner fenders connect to the outer fender lip with stainless bolts that go into the existing caged nuts (I think that is what they are called) Is that the same as a j-nut?
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Penelope, Texas
Posts: 393
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I have used the rock tumbler like botboy said and it works well. They come out like brand new.
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Crescent City, FL
Posts: 492
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Phosphoric acid is used on sheet metal as an etching compound before priming. It works on old bolts, changing iron oxide to iron phosphate which you can paint over. Wire wheel and thread chaser, phosporic acid, primer, paint, touch up paint after wrench. One brand name is OSPHO.
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid and best left in swimming pools and your stomache, or used for taking stains of sinks and toilets. Muriatic acid is too strong for ferrous metal. Breathing the fumes from the bottle or from the bolt will give the EMTs some practice.
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Bob 68 C20 Camper Special Last edited by Pilgrim; 10-06-2004 at 07:50 PM. |
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