Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-21-2004, 08:59 PM | #1 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,728
|
Front driveshaft - Double cardan joint bad?
For quite some time now, I have had a noise I can't really describe. It's road-speed related, kind of a soft ratcheting, whirring sound that comes & goes, presumably with each rotation of the front driveshaft (in 2WD, hubs out - normal "relaxed" rotation from front axle drag).
I pulled out the front driveshaft and the noise is gone, so I'm guessing it's the double carden joint, though I can't see anything obviously wrong. Can the driveshaft be rebuilt (replace the joint), or do I need a new driveshaft? If I need new, can anyone recommend some good sources? Thanks, guys (& gals!)
__________________
- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
10-21-2004, 10:45 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Oregon
Posts: 229
|
Those joints are rebuildable. I have never rebuilt one myself but Ilve taken the driveshaft into a shop and had it done on my pickup and suburban.
Call around to shops and get a price quote. Bill |
10-21-2004, 11:32 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The Rubber City
Posts: 5,498
|
My truck was so bad when I got it, that the front driveshaft smacked the exhaust pipe when I put it in 4wd, and it sounded like a machine gun. I got the cardan rebuilt, driveshaft balanced, and some cheapo spraypaint, for $100-$125 or so. I replaced the ujoints myself.
__________________
1969 GMC K2500 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650 |
10-22-2004, 12:15 AM | #4 |
I like cheese
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: McBee, SC
Posts: 192
|
LMC sells a rebuild kit for that joint. Around $30 I believe. I've had them apart and theres not much to them however I'm usually short on time and need my front driveshaft right then so I've never rebuilt one. I just put another driveshaft in. I try to keep about 4 extra front shafts on standby.
|
10-22-2004, 07:31 PM | #5 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
Just rebuilt mine. Cost about $80 for the parts. 3 u-joints and centering yoke. The centering yoke is $65 through lmc, I paid $45 at a local drive line shop(spicer part). The centering yoke has a bearing in it.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
10-22-2004, 09:35 PM | #6 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,728
|
Thanks, guys. Lacking a workbench, not to mention a shop, I dropped off the shaft at a local shop late this afternoon. They'll replace the double cardan joint and the u-joint, so it oughtta be good for another 33 years!
Funny thing is, today I noticed the noise again, but much quieter . Now I'm guessing it may be coming from the front diff, and is amplified though the driveshaft. Oh well, I haven't put any $$ into the Beast in about 12 years, and the old joints were possibly a bit tired anyway. Guess I'll still be tracking down the noise, or live with it until something is destroyed, lol!
__________________
- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
10-26-2004, 05:58 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 566
|
I'm not sure I'm reading your original post right but, if the hubs are unlocked, and the TC is in 2WD, the driveshaft should not be turning. Is it possible that one hub is screwed up and not unlocking? That will defininely cause noises from the front diff.
__________________
350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements. |
10-26-2004, 06:50 PM | #8 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
|
I don't have the boots on my shifters on my 71 and can watch the front driveshaft turn slowly. It's the parasitic drag of the gear oil causing it to turn. But any resistance should cause it to stop turning.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
10-26-2004, 09:52 PM | #9 | |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,728
|
Quote:
__________________
- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
|
10-26-2004, 10:34 PM | #10 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,399
|
Quote:
|
|
10-26-2004, 11:09 PM | #11 | |
I like cheese
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: McBee, SC
Posts: 192
|
Quote:
|
|
10-27-2004, 12:15 PM | #12 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 566
|
Quote:
__________________
350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements. |
|
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|