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10-31-2004, 11:52 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Northern CA
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Van Tilt- Whats involved to install?
Looked in faqs section and did not see anything.. what exactly has to be done to make the fit right?
thanks jakeslim |
11-01-2004, 08:25 AM | #2 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Couple of things....
1) Relocate the neutral safety switch. See HERE for the FAQ on how to do that. I used that FAQ personally, and it walked me right through the process without any problems. 2) Remove van rubber boot and retainer ring from bottom of column and install truck rubber boot and firewall retainer ring onto van coulmn. I always slightly bend the van shifter arm deal a little until the new retainer ring will slide over, then bend it back straight. 3) Bolt the column into the trucks dash, just like the old stock one. Reuse original hardware. 4) Shorten the intermediate shaft. It's the shaft that goes from the steering column to the steering box. It is collapsable. There are two plastic pins that hold it together. Drill through these pins and bang on the end of the shaft to collapse it some. The van column will stick a little further out of the firewall than the truck one did. You shorten this shaft to compensate. Just whack it a little at a time until it will fit in between the column and box. 5) Last item, is some van coulmns use a curved electrical connector. If so, you need to buy the adapter harness from GM. It's a little thing that connects the curved van plug to the straight truck plug. Cost is under 10 bucks.
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11-01-2004, 08:26 AM | #3 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
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Forgot the picture.
This is the intermediate shaft which you shorten to allow the longer vn column to fit.
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11-01-2004, 08:33 AM | #4 |
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To add to TX Firefighter's instructions, the light in the shift indicator has a gray wire with a female end on it that plugs into the fuse panel at the instrument light location.
Jim PS: The link "here" works for me and is very good for the neutral switch relocation. |
11-01-2004, 03:06 PM | #5 |
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when I shortend my lower shaft, I just put on a pair of gloves and whacked the bottom part straight down on the cement floor a few times, didn't have to use the drill. Maybe I was just lucky. Good way to vent some of the inevitable frustration invoved with these projects.
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11-01-2004, 04:40 PM | #6 |
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cool. I assume the "on the floor" would just be to connect the rounded plug with a straight adapter, then hammer int at the base to right length. Seems easy. Thanks, PS, this should be a FAQ item.
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11-04-2004, 11:17 PM | #7 |
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Thank you for this post. Just located a good van column myself.
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Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said. |
11-04-2004, 11:31 PM | #8 |
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couple of questions... where can you get the truck ring and boot?
do you have to shorten the shaft? and all you have to is drill in the plastic pins and knock it against the floor? sounds good to me. i already have one... just need to paint it and install new wiring inside of it
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11-04-2004, 11:39 PM | #9 |
its all about the +6 inches
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dinnut, you get the truck ring and boot off your old column you are pulling out of your truck.
Yes, you have to shorten the shaft...no way around it. I also have never drilled anything out. I normally put a block of wood on the cement to keep from chipping it, but yeah, just slap it down and it'll shorten on its own. |
11-04-2004, 11:39 PM | #10 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
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You get the ring and boot off of your old non-tilt truck column. New boots are available if yours is beat.
Yes, you have to shorten the shaft. The van tilt is several inches longer than a truck tilt. Read my description and see picture I posted about shortening the shaft. You can do it in under a minute.
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11-04-2004, 11:40 PM | #11 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Crap, out typed by Andy!
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11-04-2004, 11:42 PM | #12 |
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Great info...explained well. Thanks! I'll be putting one of these in my 68 in the next few weeks.
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11-05-2004, 12:43 PM | #13 |
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Tx Firefighter,
Andy is quick! Jim |
11-05-2004, 06:45 PM | #14 |
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Location: Ohio
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shaft
I had to take the intrmediate shaft apart and clean up rust and crud for shaft to slide and i cut some off the bottom so it would have room to collapse and fit.
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11-05-2004, 07:05 PM | #15 | |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
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Quote:
I may have beat you to the post tex...but I am anything but a fast typer. A one fingered blind man with an old mechanical type writer can out type me. I just started typing my post 20 min before you did. |
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11-05-2004, 10:40 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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11-05-2004, 10:53 PM | #17 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Hmmm, maybe it was 67 only...or 67 and early 68... I've seen a couple 68's that had a solid shaft.
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11-05-2004, 11:45 PM | #18 |
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my 68 has a colapsable shaft too, just FYI
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
11-06-2004, 08:11 AM | #19 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Andy, don't beat yourself up too much. I have a 68 with the solid shaft originally. It must be a hit or miss deal on 68's.
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11-06-2004, 08:26 AM | #20 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
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phew..I thought I was wrong...I guess I was mistaken. J/K
68 seems to be trasitional for a few things. |
11-06-2004, 10:28 AM | #21 |
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What year vans are you getting columns from?
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11-06-2004, 11:01 AM | #22 | |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Quote:
__________________
Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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11-06-2004, 11:03 AM | #23 | |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,684
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Quote:
__________________
Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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11-06-2004, 11:15 AM | #24 |
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I'm pretty sure my 68' has a colapsable column. My 67' has one also but that may have been something that a PO put in themselves since it already has a van tilt installed.
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11-06-2004, 02:33 PM | #25 | |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 2,485
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Quote:
__________________
1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
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