I need a measurment from a trailing arm truck.

[68LSS1]

I'm getting ready to slide the 8.8 under the truck. I need a measurment if possible from someone that has a trailing arm suspension. What I would like is for you to drop a straight edge off the frame above where the trailing arm angles out and then measure how far that is (outside of frame to oustide of trailing arm). I'm guessing it should be around 3 1/2-4". It should be the same on both sides but humor me and please check both. The saddles I got I had to open up and the fit is really tight and if I get the angles off the trailing arms will be binding slightly. I would like to make them fit a little loose and just center the rear and then move the trailing arms to were they need to be. Tighten up the U bolts and it should be good until I can get weight on the truck to set the pinion angle before I weld them up. TIA

[Vince Putt]

where can I see pictures of your truck the links on your signature line don't work?

[68LSS1]

Ya, sorry. Our local club/performance shop updated the board and I've got to upload them again. I'll probably wait until next week because when I get this rear end in I can get the cab and the tilt front end on and add those pictures. I'd like to show everybody the good job Ed @ Mothertruckers did on the shaved drip rail, frenched antenna and fire wall clean up.

[68327stepside]

Where exactly do you need this measurment at.

[68LSS1]

I need it from someone who has the rear end in the truck. I think there is too much play in the t/a bushings to accurately use the t/a as locator's for the saddles (the piece welded to the axle tubes that locates the rear end). So if someone was to accurately measure how far the t/a extend diagonally outside the frame by dropping a straight edge off the frame, over the axle to use as the starting point to measure out to see how far the t/a extend outside the frame. I'm using a Ford 8.8 so it's not set up for the t/a and I have to locate the saddles and weld them on.

[jamis]

I'm not home yet, but if you need the distence to weld in the saddles. Then I would say to measure the axle flange to flange and then flange to center of U-bolt. Then do some math to compensate for the flange to flange distence on your new axle. The distance from the frame to the T/A will depend on how well there panhard is set up and the load in the bed. Remember the T/A will move side to side with the level or load.

[SW69]

I think that centering the axle would be the best way by doing a little math...

Hope this description of where mine are helps:

39-3/4" from outside to outside of the front of the u-bolts.

42-1/4" from outside to outside of the back of the u-bolts.

Problem with dropping a plumb-bob is it could be different on both sides depending on your panhard bar and how saggy the springs are.

[SCOTI]

Would it not be more accurrate to measure the distance between the mounts on a factory rearend housing & adjust the numbers for the width of the new rear housing?

[68LSS1]

OK, the problem lies here: I can center the rear end axle flange to axle flange in the frame, that's not the problem. The saddles on the rear end is what locates the angle of the trailing arm. I don't have anything to go by. There is too much slop side to side on the rear of the trailing arms even with new bushings. The saddles have to be located in the same position irregardless of the rear end installed. Even though the housing is off set (typical Ford) by using the flange to frame measurements that will get me centered but now the rear end is sitting on the trailing arms that move. I need to put the saddles in the exact same spot distance wise as the stock rear end. The reason I didn't ask for the measurement between the saddles on a stocker is because you have to go over or under the housing so I wasn't sure how accurate that would be. Similar to your suggestion SCOTI, except that they should end up being located in the same spot as the stock rear end. As far as the pan hard rod and springs, the pan hard is not attached yet (I have to weld the Hot Rods to Hell bracket after setting the pinion angle) and the springs are new (HTH). The truck is down to the frame. SW69 did you take those measurements going over the top or under the housing? If I got measurements from the axle flange to the forward and rear u-bolt hole so I could get the angle right and the dimension flange to flange (inside backing plate to inside backing plate) of the stock unit, then I could do some math like jamis suggested. That would probably be the most accurate route.

[jamis]

3 1/8 from frame to inside rear edge of u-bolt. I think its what you originaly requested. Put up a pick with the area you want measured and I can redo it, or edit this one with some marks.

[jamis]

from the crossmember 24" down the outboardside of the T/A it measure 2" from the edge of T/A to inside edge of frame. This may help with the T/A angle also

[jamis]

or just mark a copy of this pic, showing where you want the measurements

[SW69]

[QUOTE=SW69]

39-3/4" from outside to outside of the front of the u-bolts.

42-1/4" from outside to outside of the back of the u-bolts.

QUOTE]

If you use these measurements for the placement of the u-bolts, you should get your axle centered and in the right spot. You shouldn't rely on dropping a plumb-bob.

[68LSS1]

SW69, were these measurements taken going above or below the housing? How much deflection on the tape was there? I really appreciate everybody's help. I think the most accurate way to do this would be for someone to measure axle flange to axle flange on the stock rear end and the measure from the flange to each u bolt hole. The I can measure mine and do some math like a couple people suggested above. Having those measurements should allow me to get the saddles in the right spot including the angle correct. Again thanks for everyone's help.

[SW69]

Very stiff tape measure.

Both measurements were from the outsides of the u-bolts on the bottom side. I didn't measure from the nut, but the outsides of the u-bolts as they stick out through the nut.

Good luck.