Carrier Bearing Headaches

[TugOwar]

Set out today determind to finally cure my driveline vibration. My parts list included 3 new U-joints and carrier bearing replacement.

The U-joints were the easy part, although the part #s on that the parts store had listed were incorrect, two of my U-joints are longer one way than the other, the third one is square. But we were able to go through what they had on the shelf and find the correct ones.

The carrier bearing is a different story. I went to a couple of the older parts places in town that have older guys working. They all said they had never seen a carrier bearing like mine. Then went to a couple of repair shops in town that have older guys working to see what they thought, and to get ideas about getting the bearing off the shaft. They also said they had never seen one like it. Called the Chevy dealership and their computers only go back to like 84 or something. I asked the parts guy to break out the books and have a look. His reply - "we don't have books". WTF?

Anyway, This is a 68 GMC 3/4 ton LWB. V-8, automatic, 2 wheel drive. leaf springs (not sure of that matters)

Two piece drive shaft, obviously. The front half of the drive shaft runs back to the hanger bearing, then the back half splines onto the front half.

The carrier assembly consists on a sealed bearing, front and back "dust covers". Then the rubber that the bearing sits in. This is all sandwiched between two halves of the hanger bracket. The bracket then bolts up with four bolts to a bracket right behind the crossmember.

The sealed bearing its self was not a problem, picked it up on my first stop. It's the rest of the assembly that seems to be obsolete. I could use this bearing IF I could get the old off without tearing up the dust cover behind it. Even if I could get it off that still leaves the rubber sleeve that I can't find.

Now I know someone here has this type bearing and has replaced it before. If someone would be kind enough to share a part # with me, either GM part# or something I can get a part store to order. OR, is there a later model type carrier bearing that will replace this one?

Any and all help is very much appreciated. I miss driving my truck.

[Longhorn Man]

Sounds like what was on the Longhorn, I was told it was discontinued too.
I took my drive shaft in to a drive line shop (driveline one for all the local guys...I DO recomend them). I feel it is too much a PITA, and plus, there was quite a bit of other woork needed on the shaft. Bent, dented, way off ballance messed up hole for the u-joint cap... got it all done up with 3 new sealed U-joints and a new carrier bearing, repaired all the damage and picked it up the same day. The $200 bill kinda hurt, but i KNOW it is right, and if it isn't, they'll fix it on there dime.
The guy there took one look at the shaft and guessed the aplication right off the bat, he was a couple years off though. (guessed 68 instead of 70)
Anyways, he said that he would be able to get one from "his guy", but it would be very expensive. Instead, he recomended a carrier bearing that has been used as recent as 98 if I remember correctly. Looking at my bill, it lists it as a NCB HB210370-1X
You may be able to get a cross reference from that number...maybe NAPA?
It is a direct fit on the shaft. However, where your old unit took 4 nuts and bolts to mount it, the new one will only need 2. The bad thing is the new bolts are right inbetween the old ones. I haven't installed mine yet, but I am sure I can overcome this little problem. Hog out the holes so it is a long slotted hole....get away with drilling the holes inbetween the stock holes...don't know...don't care. I just know it can be done with simple tools. (There is metal over the holes, that's all i need to know as far as I'm concerned)
Anyhoo...I'll be installing this this weekend onless the sky falls or something. I have a cash bet on weather or not the one ton will move under it's own power or not.

[TugOwar]

Thanks Andy, thats what I needed. I'll copy that number down and try the parts stores tomorrow.

I wouldn't bet against you on getting the 1 ton moving. Have fun with her and be careful.

[dinnut]

thats funny. all i had to do to get mine was goto oreillys and had them take out their book and they looked up the part number for the whole thing. another store a couple of miles away had it in stock. i took it to firestone and it was done in a couple hours...

[72_Chev_Truck]

yea, when i redid all my u-joints they had the carrier bearing in stock for my truck i think.

[70short]

I called the local Drive line shop to get A quote on A one piece driveline. 150-175 dollars for A custom one piece. Why do the two.

Gary

[kwmech]

Just recently had the carrier seize up in my 68 GMC 3/4 ton 2wd. Called up my local driveline shop [owner there is as old as dirt] told him what I had. 30 minutes later I had the bearing in my hands. The application was not direct for my truck but he knew of the problem and some other application that went right on. Was driving the truck the next day.

[68w/sbc406]

seems that everyone has there 'local drive line shop' (i got one too six states) i had mine shortened, new yoke, u-joints, and carrier barring. all for 175.

[TugOwar]

My "local drive line shop" is, well, non-existant. My local tranny shop may have some ideas though.

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by 70short

I called the local Drive line shop to get A quote on A one piece driveline. 150-175 dollars for A custom one piece. Why do the two.

Gary

Why?
Why not?
133 inch wheel base + short shaft TH 350 = one loooong ass shaft.
A properly done one piece is just as good as a one piece...pluss I don't have to worry about whipping.
One piece shafts are over rated IMO. I've had one truck with each set up on the road, and in reality...I still see no reason to do the conversion.
All you saying they just walked up and bought one...is yours a 1/2 ton or bigger? Do you have the 1/2 moon style...or the tear drop style?
There was more than one style used.

[TugOwar]

Went out this morning armed with the part #. Still no luck. I think the number crashed their computers. j/k But no one had and there was no cross reference for it.

Stopped by the tranny shop and he said it's a special order bearing, he'd have to call around for price and availability, and he said there is no later model type bearing to replace it with. So I left it with him. I guess we'll see.

[neonlarry]

Just a thought, but with your style carrier bearing so hard to find you might consider changing the mount to fit one of the other style carrier bearings that are more readily available.

[Longhorn Man]

I just googled the p/n.
http://216.239.63.104/search?q=cache...10370-1X&hl=en
That should be a link coached by google....1/2 way down you'll see it highlighted in yellow.
Now see if your local idiots can cross reference it.

[TugOwar]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

I just googled the p/n.
http://216.239.63.104/search?q=cache...10370-1X&hl=en
That should be a link coached by google....1/2 way down you'll see it highlighted in yellow.
Now see if your local idiots can cross reference it.

Cool Andy, I appreciate the trouble you've gone through to help me with this. Ever need anything just give a holler.

Please tell me this, the bearing you have, the one listed above, when mounted will it hang down as far as the original?
I found one at a parts store here that would fit the shaft but was shorter and would have hung at a higher level than the original, therefore giving the rear drive shaft a steeper angle. I would have bought that one but was afraid the steeper angle would fudge up the whole works.
But if you tell me the one you have comes close to hanging down as far as the original then thats the route I'll take. IF my tranny guy hasn't already ordered a bearing for it.

[Longhorn Man]

It is a tad shorter, but the drive shaft guy figured out angles and stuff and called it good.

[70short]

Local IDIOTS That is not very cool longhorn man !! "One piece drive shafts are over rated" UMM Thats why all pickup trucks built since are one piece. However have A very happy XMASS!!! I am sorry I struck A nerve. I will learn to walk on egg shells

[Longhorn Man]

No, didn't step on a nerve...and if I came across like that..I'm sorry.
Most shops will refuse to make a drive shaft that is over 6 foot long. The big three have just recently started doing shafts longer than 6 feet.
6 feet seems to be the magic length where whipping becomes an issue. It is no secret that I am kinda hard on my vehicles. (Who else would lay 60 foot burn outs in a town car? ) I don't think big block power, lead foot, and a 7 ot so foot shaft is a good idea.
As for the newer trucks havin one piece shafts...There's more 2 pc shafts than you'd think. Even extended cab Rangers have them.
I have seen 2 pc shafts hold up to years of daily driving and then hold up to 12 second 1/4 mile times with stickey tires.
Not a nerve, just don't see too much a point in it. I should be good for 10 or so years on my U-joints, and 20 on the C-bearing....asuming I don't roll the sucker or some other undesirable death to the truck.

[68w/sbc406]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

asuming I don't roll the sucker or some other undesirable death to the truck.

like getting hit by a mazda?

[tom hand]

Originally Posted by TugOwar

The U-joints were the easy part, although the part #s on that the parts store had listed were incorrect, two of my U-joints are longer one way than the other, the third one is square.

The two u-joints longer one way than the other is a tell-tell sign that someone has adapted that driveshaft to the truck....thats why no one can look up the correct parts out of a book...you will have to make it work the hardway

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

like getting hit by a mazda?

yeah...thanks for bringing that one up.
I think I'll go to my room and cry now.

[68w/sbc406]

oops sorry every once in a while i go to your web page and see if anything has changed, was there last week

[Longhorn Man]

yeah, i oughta do something about that site huh?

[68w/sbc406]

maybe a good write up bout the differences in the years, then maybe i could finally tell the difference between a 69 and a 70. i got the 71-72 thing down

[TugOwar]

Update: Friday, after not being able to find a suitable bearing around town, I stopped by the tranny shop and had the owner look at it. I forget his exact wording but he basically says its not you're everyday carrier bearing. duh. He asked me to leave it with him and he'd see what he could find out. Friday afternoon he ordered a bearing to be delivered Monday, estimated cost = $100 give or take, including his labor pressing the old one off and the new one on.

Bearing arrives, Fedex, Monday afternoon. He says they sent the wrong one, right height but inner race too big. He takes, or has someone take, the drive shaft into San Antonio to a place that only does drive lines. He goes, or has someone go, back and pick it up today. I picked it up about 4 PM today. I was expecting something after market, all in one type deal. But its almost identical to the original and uses the original two piece hanger. Final damages = $70.

Slapped it in this afternoon and my vibration is greatly improved but not gone completely. When I get the chance I'll have the rear tires speed balanced and that should take care of it.

So I'm happy, I got my truck back!!

[4x4Poet]

I see I'm too late to help TOw. For all you carrier bearing users, check your local bearing sales store. It is a bearing after all. Almost all bearings are cheaper at bearing sales stores. Mine had my C10's bearing at ~30% less than three auto parts stores I checked. They had two styles to choose from for 72 C10s. The crappy donut I have and the other common one. I didn't check for C20s, longhorns, etc., so I don't know if they handle other style 67-72 carrier bearings. But they did only use parts books to find the bearing. I was able to read upside down as they researched. The way I like it. Hope this helps a future carrier bearing locator.