Exhaust help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Purs · 03-02-2005, 05:39 PM

I'm dropping the new beast in soon and am trying to plan for my exhaust. I know I want to run 3" all the way out and I don't want it to hang to low. Does anyone have any pics of their exhaust or advice on how I need to run mine? Also, is it worth it to run it like they did on Copperhead through the crossmember?

Bowtiefreak · 03-02-2005, 09:22 PM

I think if you want to try and hide it, though the frame croosmember is the only way IMO. I plan on doing mine that way. I have already cut out the crossmember and welded in re-enforcemnet plates. I plan on making the same clamps like he did to bolt it still in the crossmember. I ended up calling Dave @ ECE (because that's who made them) and he walked me though the design. Fortunately (sp) for me I have access to a Brigeport and a CNC. Although I am quite sure you could make them with some very average tools. I won't be able to run my exhaust all the way out to the back because of my Mallory fuel pumps on each frame rail, but I will go at least to the rear end. So what I end up having for an exhaust will at least be hidden. Plus with a 4/6 drop, all the extra ground clearance I can get, the better.

Bowtiefreak

Purs · 03-02-2005, 10:16 PM

thanks bowtiefreak. How did you decide where to cut out the holes and what kind of plate did you weld to reinforce that crossmember with? Exactly what did Dave @ ECE make for you? If I bought the same pieces would he walk me through the design as well? For now I'm thinking of dumping the exhaust in front of the rear. If you have any pics you'd be willing to email I'd really appreciate it. bpursley@esc14.net

Bowtiefreak · 03-03-2005, 01:10 PM

Purs-
First thing I did was get some 3/16 plate steel. Then I shaped it to the crossmember. After that I proceeded to weld the plate to the crossmember. The plate will certainally add some strength to it.

Then I got a short piece of 3" exhaust pipe I had laying around to use a visual mock up of where and how close to the framerails it wqould be. With the pipe against the plate I traced around the pipe with a sharpie marker. I then cut it out with a 3" hole saw. (hole saws tend to cut a little bigger than what they are suppose to be) Use a 1/2 air drill to do this because if you use a 1/2 electric and it catches with that big of a hole saw on metal, look out, because they can twist your arms into a pretzel in a hurry.

As far as the clamps, ECE didn't make mine But I beleive they will if you ask them. I just asked them how they went about making them and they explained it to me. I'll try to get you a scetch of what I am doing but You use some 3/4 thick alumn. plate and cut out the desired pattern. Drill two holes on each end for mounting purposes, then drill the centers out for the exhaust. (2 1/2 or 3" dia) You will then want to drill and tap a couple holes for some set screws. These screws will tighten against the pipe to keep it from rattleing. Really pretty easy but it will take a little time.

Remember tho, you need to use flexable tubeing up front to allow for engine flex.

Hope some of this helps.

special70gmc · 03-03-2005, 07:17 PM

shoulda cut my cross member but i got it tucked pritty good w/o cuttin her up

70c10swb · 03-03-2005, 09:05 PM

ECE sells the crossmember with the holes alreay in it

Bowtiefreak · 03-03-2005, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70c10swb

ECE sells the crossmember with the holes alreay in it

Yep, your right, its also a little smaller to help out the frame layers out there.

03-02-2005, 05:39 PM	#1
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Exhaust help I'm dropping the new beast in soon and am trying to plan for my exhaust. I know I want to run 3" all the way out and I don't want it to hang to low. Does anyone have any pics of their exhaust or advice on how I need to run mine? Also, is it worth it to run it like they did on Copperhead through the crossmember? Attached Images __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

03-02-2005, 09:22 PM	#2
Bowtiefreak Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: LeRoy, Mich. Posts: 854	I think if you want to try and hide it, though the frame croosmember is the only way IMO. I plan on doing mine that way. I have already cut out the crossmember and welded in re-enforcemnet plates. I plan on making the same clamps like he did to bolt it still in the crossmember. I ended up calling Dave @ ECE (because that's who made them) and he walked me though the design. Fortunately (sp) for me I have access to a Brigeport and a CNC. Although I am quite sure you could make them with some very average tools. I won't be able to run my exhaust all the way out to the back because of my Mallory fuel pumps on each frame rail, but I will go at least to the rear end. So what I end up having for an exhaust will at least be hidden. Plus with a 4/6 drop, all the extra ground clearance I can get, the better. Bowtiefreak __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 Short Fleetside/Wood floor ECE 4-6 Drop / 406 Small Block 1971 Chevelle 427 Big Block

03-02-2005, 10:16 PM	#3
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	thanks bowtiefreak. How did you decide where to cut out the holes and what kind of plate did you weld to reinforce that crossmember with? Exactly what did Dave @ ECE make for you? If I bought the same pieces would he walk me through the design as well? For now I'm thinking of dumping the exhaust in front of the rear. If you have any pics you'd be willing to email I'd really appreciate it. bpursley@esc14.net __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

03-03-2005, 01:10 PM	#4
Bowtiefreak Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: LeRoy, Mich. Posts: 854	Purs- First thing I did was get some 3/16 plate steel. Then I shaped it to the crossmember. After that I proceeded to weld the plate to the crossmember. The plate will certainally add some strength to it. Then I got a short piece of 3" exhaust pipe I had laying around to use a visual mock up of where and how close to the framerails it wqould be. With the pipe against the plate I traced around the pipe with a sharpie marker. I then cut it out with a 3" hole saw. (hole saws tend to cut a little bigger than what they are suppose to be) Use a 1/2 air drill to do this because if you use a 1/2 electric and it catches with that big of a hole saw on metal, look out, because they can twist your arms into a pretzel in a hurry. As far as the clamps, ECE didn't make mine But I beleive they will if you ask them. I just asked them how they went about making them and they explained it to me. I'll try to get you a scetch of what I am doing but You use some 3/4 thick alumn. plate and cut out the desired pattern. Drill two holes on each end for mounting purposes, then drill the centers out for the exhaust. (2 1/2 or 3" dia) You will then want to drill and tap a couple holes for some set screws. These screws will tighten against the pipe to keep it from rattleing. Really pretty easy but it will take a little time. Remember tho, you need to use flexable tubeing up front to allow for engine flex. Hope some of this helps. __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 Short Fleetside/Wood floor ECE 4-6 Drop / 406 Small Block 1971 Chevelle 427 Big Block

03-03-2005, 07:17 PM	#5
special70gmc Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: long island, new york Posts: 1,333	shoulda cut my cross member but i got it tucked pritty good w/o cuttin her up Attached Images __________________ 1986 c-10 swb 5/7 drop 20'' coys 1958 belair 2door

03-03-2005, 09:05 PM	#6
70c10swb no brain no headache Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Cape Cod MA Posts: 567	ECE sells the crossmember with the holes alreay in it __________________ 1996 GMC Sierra z71 1970 SWB 2wd (project)

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.