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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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is it possible?
You guys ever tried replacing main bearing/rod bearings in a SBC while it IN the truck? Just curious if its even possible.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Teeswater, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 173
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Not sure if it is possible in our trucks, or any that have independant front suspension. I do remember grandpa telling me that cars with a straight axle, you must measure all the bearings in the when doing a rebuild, because they had a tool that were able to grind the mains. I wonder where all the filings went? I know this doesn't help but I thought it would be a neat piece of info.
Sorry about the :hj: Jamie |
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#3 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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It's way too easy to pull the engine for me to even consider trying to do it in the truck.
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#4 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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Yes it's fully possible to inframe the bearing change.
Some guys may not be in a position to pull the engine out. When I lived in an apartment years ago, I had to do things like this in the parking lot without the ability to remove an engine.
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Yeah thats my situation TX. Not an apartment but still a rental unit. The landlord don't say much if I can keep things hemmed in under the carport but he'd have a stroke if I start setting up tri-pods in the yard and sh!t, which I don't have one anyway. But if push comes to shove I can borrow one.
My lil 305 has developed a rattle in the bottom end. With limited funds and limited resources it would be easiest, cheapest and quickest if I can do an "in truck" bearing replacement until I can swap the motor completely. I would really appreciate any tips/thoughts you have before I tackle this job. Last edited by TugOwar; 03-13-2005 at 06:41 PM. |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
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Remove distributor cap and loosen fan shroud or remove fan beforen jacking engine. Jack slowly and check for any tight hose,wires or binding on anythng. Put wood blocks between mounts and frame. Pan will clear front counter weight easier if you turn crank to certain postion. Soak everything with Simple Green and get to a carwash and clean the $hit off of everthing on motor and anything near it. Bearing replacement requires absolute cleanliness, replace rear seal while crank is hanging down a bit.
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#7 | |
All Go, No Show
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Creighton SK
Posts: 286
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Quote:
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Ok thanks for the tips. Lemme ask ya this...
Do I plasti-gauge one main and then buy the whole set like that or plasti-gauge each main and buy a set of mix matched bearings to match? |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Trenton ,Texas
Posts: 328
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i would pull 1 main and rod bearing, check the size, and buy the entire set of that same size. if it has been rebuilt before it should have the size stamped on the backside of the bearing ( +10,+20 etc ). sometimes they will have GM stamped if they are original ( standard size ). considering that you are on a buget, a mixed set of different sizes would be costly, possibly even trippleing the cost for a custom set. i would also consider replaceing the oil pump ( $20) while your there. it would be soo much easyier if you use a one peice pan gasket. hope this helps.....rat
Last edited by Ratpowerd67; 03-13-2005 at 11:40 PM. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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You bet it helps Rat. Great idea on the oil pump.
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#11 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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I would consider a high volume oil pump. Melling part number M-55HV. They run 5 bucks more than a stocker or so. It will act as a crutch, as obviously, your crank journals will be worn some and your cam bearings will be worn too. The extra pressure on the pump will compensate for the wear.
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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OK, picked up plasti-gauge at autozone this morning and just dropped the oil pan. No jacking necessary but I did have to loosen the starter so the pan would clear it.
I found the torque specs here for later use. I can see now that cleaning the old oil pan gasket off the block is going to be a PITA, cork gasket. My question now is this: Is there anything special I need to watch for when removing or installing the oil pump? Are there timing issues involved there? Any input is appreciated. P.S. FireFighter I'll follow your advice on the HV pump. thanks |
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#13 |
urban fourwheelin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,007
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I was going to recommend a high volume oil pump too, not that you really need it, But it is good insurance against worn or sloppy bearing clearences.
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Thanks very much Red.
I plasti-gauged the rear main and it mashed it so flat it stuck to the crank. I removed the bearing from the cap and found it already has 10 over in it so thats what I'm going back with. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 2,057
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if you replace the oil pump... make sure you position the pick up tube in the right spot, not to close or to far away from the pan. also would be a good idea to tack weld the pickup tube to the pump.
and i would NOT put a high volume pump in, it will suck the pan dry... maybe it would be ok if its a low reving motor, but with a stock pan, it could be easy to run it out of oil. |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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it'll prolly never see 5k rpm.
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Well I sucessfully changed the main bearings and installed new HV oil pump. I pulled the fire wire off the distributor and turned the motor over until the oil pressure picked up, then replaced the fire wire and busted her off.
It sounded really good to start off, it seemed quieter and tighter, but then again it never did have a problem idling while cold. I let it idle until it was at operating temp and then started to bring up the rpm. Still has the same rattle at the same rpm as before, though not quite as severe which is probably due to fresh oil and new pump. I don't know whether to go back in and attempt to put in new rod bearings or not. The crank journals have obvious wear, it may still be the crank rattling, not sure... Ideas? Thoughts? Spare Cursewords? |
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#18 |
blood type; Retumbo
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: next to my reloading bench
Posts: 10,269
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do the rod bearings. plastigage them & go for odd sizing (+.012, +.015 etc) to get the clearance correct. just get them all the same size instead of a mix-n-match. (go for the average)
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#19 |
It's a catastrophic success.
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,077
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If the bearings are worn, then the crank is worn.replacing one without the other is a waste of time.Turn the crank buy bearings to match.
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pleasanton, TX
Posts: 1,723
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Dang sneakysnake, wish I'd thought of that.
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Philadelphia, Ohio
Posts: 253
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yeah, and if a rod is starting to knock, then it might be getting out of round too. Might want to have the rod checked also.
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