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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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Pics from the weekend
I just thought i would post some pictures of the tranny swap i did this weekend. SM465 to NV4500.
in the last one you can see the ssquare tube spacers i made for the crossmember Ryan |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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few more
couple more pics
you can see how the shofter just barely hits the seat in 2nd 4th and reverse Ryan |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 3,071
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Wow ...what a cutie in the last pic!!!!
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Alex 1971 Lil' Red 350 SBC 700R4 |
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#4 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Looks good!
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
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#5 |
blood type; Retumbo
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: next to my reloading bench
Posts: 10,269
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that looks sweeeet! the truck/trans looks good too.
I like your tranny jack. do you plan to bend the shift lever to clear the seat?
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Man rule #77...if you own a 67 stepside with a caddy 472 you will never be in danger of loosing you man card |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Owosso, Mi
Posts: 242
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super nice set up
![]() is the tranny new? where did you get it?
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67 short wide 355ci 3 on tree 69 short wide 250ci 3 on tree 68 long wide 283 3 on tree 72 2wd Blazer project 454 5 speed ![]() |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi.
Posts: 1,771
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Well the pic's are GREAT,but you have to go into some more detail man!
This is a potential project for me so info like the 205 shifter,what clearance issue's did you have with it. How much longer is it compared to the TH350/NP205 combo. Can you get some closer shots of the NV4500/NP205 adapter. Why did you shim down the trans crossmember?Could the mount inbetween the NV4500 and the trans crossmember have been made thinner so the trans crossmember didn't have to be lowered? Stuff like that. Excellant pic's though!!!!
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71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 10,497
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Looks good!!
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Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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Well thansk for the compliments.
i don't think i will bend the shifter, because i plan on bucket seats in the future($$$) and i am also planning on installing a short shift kit, which will raise the entire shifter enough to clear the bench as it just barely rubs. i got the tranny from a member who bought it all new from Advanced adapters and had the 205 rebuilt. I can go into better detail and post any pictures that you all want, but i am headed to wyoming this evening to visit my new school, so i will have to do it later this week. I know the crossmember was moved right at 2 inches back but mine was a 4 speed priginally, i don't think that it is any different than a th350, and imnot sure what the deal is with the spacers, the t-case was going to hit the cab and it sets at what lookes like the same angle as it was with the stock set up, with the 1.5 inch spacers. i think i can machine a new block for under the adapter and do away with the frame spacers, but that will have to wait. that black square tube above the x-member is an advance adapter peice. advance also suppies a peice that allows for the mount of the 205 shifter, but mine isn't all hooked up yet, because i didn't get around to it. Ryan |
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#10 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA
Posts: 12,684
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That is awesome!
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14 |
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#11 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field
Posts: 5,597
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Great pics of your progress, keep up the good work and keep us posted! Also keep the little lady, not many are willing to spend time in a shop with their man giving moral support and encouragment!
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pierre SD
Posts: 1,533
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I think an article for FAQ is in order. I am wanting this set-up also. Part numbers would be great.
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I think the world needs a drink... ![]() Help somebody...If you can....VanZant We're not wrong, we're not sorry, and its probably gonna happen again. That's the truth about men. Tracy Byrd ![]() Member# 13924 '70 c10, 350/350 '68 c10 250/4spd '68 c10 no eng/trans fac ps/pb/ac/at (future father/sons project) '48 Chevy Loadmaster |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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More details
Ok, everyone seems to want more information. here is a sort of step by step and some more pics. i will snap more photos this weekend when i finish and post them as well. if someone wants to move this to the FAQ board that is great, if not i can copy and paste it into a new thread.
As always block the truck so it won't roll, and disconect the positive battery connection before any repair/replace procedure this is also a good time to replace the clutch, but mine is less than 6 months old, so i left it alone. these are my steps, feel free to add anything i have forgotten. 1. remove the driveshaft 2. remove the shifter( if standard floor shift ) 3. remove seat and transmission tunnel cover. 4. drain all fluid from the transfer case and transmission remove speedo cable and backup light wires 5. Remove the 8 bolts holdong the transfer case to the factory adapter. be sure to support the case, it is heavy 6. carefully slide the input off of the splined tube in the adapter and the t-case is out. 7. remove the 2 1/2 (3/4 wrench) inch bolts holding the adapter to the crossmember. 8. support the transsmission with a floor or transmission jack or cherry picker from above. 9. remove the 8 bolts holding the adapter to the transmission case and remove adapter. 10. remove 8 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame. a few of mine broke so have some WD-40 or other penetrant around for the rust. remove the crossmember 11. remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission case to the bellhousing. 12.carefully lower the transmission out of the vehicle. you must slide it strait back to remove the input from the clutch disc before lowering. 13. diconnect the clutch linkage from the throw out fork. 14. pull the starter (if block mounted this step can be ommitted) 15. remove the 6 bell housing bolts (9/16 wrench) and pull the bellhousing, clutch fork and T/O bearing. 16. Use a dolley ( i used a creeper ) to slide the new transmission and transfer case asseembly under the truck. You can either choose to put the bellhousing on the engine now or leave it attached to the case. i chose to attach mine to the engine first. 17. Use ratchet straps or chain(i prefer straps) to hoist the tranny assembly up into place with the engine hoist. 18. line the input shaft up with the clutch disc and pilot bushing. 19. slide the tranny forward and bolt it to the bellhousing using the 7/16 bolts(5/8 wrench) 20. attach the Advance adapters crossmember spacer to the aluminum adapter using 7/16 bolts (5/8 wrench) 21. bolt the crossmember to the AA adapter using the factory bolts, now with nuts and lock washers(they thread strait into the adapter in the factory application. 22. I used 1 1/2" square tube to space the crossmember down so the transfer case would not hit the cab. 7 inches long with 3/8" bolt holes on 5" centers for the spacers. 23. set the spacers on the crossmember and jack it up against the frame. drill out the frame with a 3/8 inch drill bit. For the upper frame rail i used a long shank 3/8 drill bit and went throught holes i drilled in the lower frame. 24. bolt the crossmember to the frame using new 2 1/2" bolts nuts and lock washers. 25. if your driveshaft is at the middle of its travel before you start it will need shortened, my truck had a lift and factory length driveline, so it needed no mods. the front driveline will need lengthened. I also replaced my u-joints at this time. 26. AA sells a bolt on relocation bracket for the t-case shifter, so install it and the shifter 27. install the shifter for the tranny, and re-install the interior peices. 28. re-attach the clutch linkage and starter(if removed) All of this i for a 71-72 original 4 speed 205 combo truck, other things will have to be done if working with an auto truck. i used all AA parts, including the transmission. the bellhousing is the left side mechanical clutch linkage part. I will do some looking and get part numbers ASAP. tools needed for this swap were basic hand tools, electric drill, engine hoist and an assortment of bolts and nuts. My girlfriend and i accomplished this swap with about 6-8 hours invested. Also this transmission requires that a special synthetic oil be used or the tranny will self destruct. here are some PN's 715690 is the AA number 12346190 is the GM part number or the Dodge part number is 4874459. You can also you Castrol Syntorque synthetic as well, but only these will work all else will ruin the tranny. It is also advised to run this oil in the transfer case, in case for some reason the seal between the two breeches. this will allow the gearbox contents to mix and possibly ruin the tranny if the same oils aren't used. Last edited by ryanroo; 03-22-2005 at 04:40 PM. |
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#14 |
Seasonal Poster
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
Posts: 896
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I now see the value of a lift kit in a truck
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67 GMC Short Step 350/4-Speed/3.08 Posi Front/Rear Sway Bars Kelowna BC, Canada Member of DTPW |
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#15 | |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Quote:
![]() Hey, sixseven, you got a website or photo album with pics of your truck? Looks sweet in your avatar.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Pierre SD
Posts: 1,533
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I work in a dealer that carries both gmc and dodge truck. I will tell you from experience that the gm part number is cheaper than the dodge number. No experience with the other two.
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I think the world needs a drink... ![]() Help somebody...If you can....VanZant We're not wrong, we're not sorry, and its probably gonna happen again. That's the truth about men. Tracy Byrd ![]() Member# 13924 '70 c10, 350/350 '68 c10 250/4spd '68 c10 no eng/trans fac ps/pb/ac/at (future father/sons project) '48 Chevy Loadmaster |
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#17 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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That isa sweet set-up for sure you should be really happy with it.. Nice work..
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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I finally got this beast back on the road this weekend, had to fight a little bit with the spacers for the crossmember, and i finally located some of the special fluid needed for the NV4500. took it out for a test drive, very nice. i still need to work on a little timing bug, but its no big deal. also need to get a tranny tunnel cover for it, and a few other little things.
Will post a few more pictures when i get back to ames tomorrow. Ryan |
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#19 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,477
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#20 |
Just here to help
![]() Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Norwood,Mo
Posts: 3,893
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Ryan do you think you could copy your how to and post it in the FAQ board?Great write up.
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#21 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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Definitely needs to be in FAQ!
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lake Crystal, MN
Posts: 656
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Nice Work. I will need that in the FAQ soon. Nice truck too by the way.
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-Cory 1967 2 Wheel Chevy |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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Ryan, good work. I'm curious, are you graduating ISU, moving on to a grad school in Wyoming, or what. We need industrious young people like you to stay here. Whatever the reason - good luck.
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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Ryan, never mind. I just found your answer in General Discussion. Congrats on going to Wyo Tech. That should be a fun and rewarding schooling process. Again, good luck.
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: sw colorado
Posts: 2,720
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Yeah off to wyotech, not sure if ill be coming back to iowa when im done or not, jsut depends i guess.
thanks for the kind words everyone. i will move a copy over to FAQ tomorrow and post as many pics as i have of the swap and the parts needed. Ryan |
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