???'s for all with drum brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nevada70chev · 03-22-2005, 06:48 PM

i just replaced, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware on all four corners. how much travel should i have in the brake pedal? should i have the system "pressure bled"? thanks.

Pilgrim · 03-22-2005, 06:56 PM

Travel about 3/4".

**Palf70Step** · 03-22-2005, 07:16 PM

That sounds right, especially if it is non-power. Mine is not very much . If you have much play I'd say you need to rebleed starting with driver rear wheel and work your way to the front. Then Pass rear, pass front, the driver front...Watch your MC fluid levels.

1969K10 · 03-23-2005, 01:31 PM

palf70step - i've always been told to start with the shortest line, and work your way to the longest line...

Old Dave · 03-23-2005, 01:51 PM

Bill is correct.

68speedalert · 03-23-2005, 02:35 PM

My experience says it don't matter which you start with. Many times the system can be bled by just letting it drip untill a steady drip comes from the bleeder screw. Remove the mc cover first.

The single biggest problem with drum brakes is getting them adjusted right. I like to adjust them with the drum on. Tighten the screw with an adjusting tool untill the drum won't turn and the screw feels tight. Use a thin pic and pull the self-adjuster lever away from the screw. (on the rears this means pushing in , on the fronts the adjusting hole is on the outside so you have to pull it towards you). while holding the lever away, back off the screw the same amount for each brake, about 10 clicks.

This takes some practice and DO practice loosening the screw BEFORE you tighten so you can get the feel of it.

Adjusting this keeps from getting the dredded pull when stopping, that drum brakes often have.

Longhorn Man · 03-23-2005, 10:47 PM

If you think all the air is out of the system, (firm pedal, just low) then simply adjust the shoes out.

03-22-2005, 06:48 PM	#1
nevada70chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: reno, nv Posts: 646	???'s for all with drum brakes i just replaced, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware on all four corners. how much travel should i have in the brake pedal? should i have the system "pressure bled"? thanks. __________________ 70 LWB, 350/350 A/C, P/S, 3 Tone Paint (white cap, primer gray with black guide coat)

03-22-2005, 06:56 PM	#2
Pilgrim Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Crescent City, FL Posts: 492	Travel about 3/4". __________________ Bob 68 C20 Camper Special

03-22-2005, 07:16 PM	#3
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 46,997	That sounds right, especially if it is non-power. Mine is not very much . If you have much play I'd say you need to rebleed starting with driver rear wheel and work your way to the front. Then Pass rear, pass front, the driver front...Watch your MC fluid levels. __________________ Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God!

03-23-2005, 01:31 PM	#4
1969K10 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Clarks Hill, Indiana Posts: 733	palf70step - i've always been told to start with the shortest line, and work your way to the longest line... __________________ 1969 K10 - V8, 465, 205, 12 bolt, D44 2002-current 1969 K20 - V8, 465, 221, Eaton, D44 2012-current Nothin' but drums on all 4 corners! past horses in the stable 72 C10-short step (97-02), 68 C10-long fleet (06-12)

03-23-2005, 01:51 PM	#5
Old Dave Is a bullfrog waterproof? Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: OLATHE, KANSAS Posts: 1,130	Bill is correct. __________________ "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt." Ben Franklin __________________ 1970 Chevy shortbed 2002 Harley Custom Chopper (Long sucker) 1998 K2500 5.7L 5-speed Longbed 1st two are My son's toys...they just live in my garage! 1997 GMC K1500 Suburban 1993 S-10 Blazer 4D (youngest son's daily driver) 2000 Dodge Ram 4WD Ext. Cab (5.9L) Wife is a late year 1951

03-23-2005, 02:35 PM	#6
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	My experience says it don't matter which you start with. Many times the system can be bled by just letting it drip untill a steady drip comes from the bleeder screw. Remove the mc cover first. The single biggest problem with drum brakes is getting them adjusted right. I like to adjust them with the drum on. Tighten the screw with an adjusting tool untill the drum won't turn and the screw feels tight. Use a thin pic and pull the self-adjuster lever away from the screw. (on the rears this means pushing in , on the fronts the adjusting hole is on the outside so you have to pull it towards you). while holding the lever away, back off the screw the same amount for each brake, about 10 clicks. This takes some practice and DO practice loosening the screw BEFORE you tighten so you can get the feel of it. Adjusting this keeps from getting the dredded pull when stopping, that drum brakes often have. __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

03-23-2005, 10:47 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	If you think all the air is out of the system, (firm pedal, just low) then simply adjust the shoes out.

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