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06-30-2005, 06:39 PM | #1 |
YA YA
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rockledge, Fl
Posts: 1,273
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Fire wall - how do I get this crud off...?
Hi all,
Truck has been sitting for the past couple months in my garage as you see it in the first photo. This being a three day weekend I'm hoping to make a little progress. Now on to my problem, I've tried just about everything I know to try to get this caked on and rubberized crap off the firewall to no avail. Anyone have any suggestions. Second is I purchased high temp prime and baby blue rattle can paint from the parts store, I'm not look for a show truck just a good appearance when I show the engine off. Should the rattle can paint suffice? Cheers to all - Jim
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Jimbo '72 SWB - 350 (frame-off resto in progress - donations accepted) '04 Chevy Avalanche '03 Cadillac CTS (wife's ride) Restoration progress - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335707 |
06-30-2005, 06:54 PM | #2 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,373
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Torch + putty knife.
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06-30-2005, 06:56 PM | #3 | |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
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Quote:
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06-30-2005, 07:03 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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www.eastwood.com has a product called underoff for removing undercoating , also chech local body shop supplier for similar products
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06-30-2005, 07:10 PM | #5 |
YA YA
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rockledge, Fl
Posts: 1,273
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I'll check that out Cliff - I also have the mini tourch and will try that too!
Thanks fellas!
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Jimbo '72 SWB - 350 (frame-off resto in progress - donations accepted) '04 Chevy Avalanche '03 Cadillac CTS (wife's ride) Restoration progress - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335707 |
06-30-2005, 07:21 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Just outside Durham, NC
Posts: 894
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Way back when I got my first car, I used s.o.s pads and elbow grease, it worked really well. I have also had luck using soft scrub and a plastic sponge (not sure what they are called, but its the one that kinda looks like the steel wool that sos pads are made of). I have also been told that diesel fuel and rags will work, but I have yet to try that......bug and tar remover may work in a pinch....as of yet, I have also not tried that either.
p.s. the s.o.s pads didn't hurt my paint at all, you just need to stop scrubbing so hard when you hit paint |
06-30-2005, 07:26 PM | #7 |
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Location: Just outside Durham, NC
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p.p.s
The same car was definately painted with a spray paint can....and I was quite pleased with the end result. If you are at all used to sparying paint with a paint gun, go down to home depot and pick up a handle attachment that clips to the top of the spray paint can, makes the paint much easier to put down evenly IMHO. If you want something that will match a little better and dont have access to an air compressor and a gun, home depot also sells these make shift spray paint cans that have a compresssed air tube in them, you could match the paint as best you can with krylon and get a pretty good finish (have used this method on a 55 chevy....big can white, little can brown.....eggshell matched the bed sides really well....just make sure you thin it out and paint in multiple coats).....yes, I am a backyard body work guy....(read: cheap)......whatever works! Last edited by shelby987; 06-30-2005 at 07:27 PM. |
06-30-2005, 07:36 PM | #8 |
YA YA
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rockledge, Fl
Posts: 1,273
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Thanks Shelby - I've used just about every kind of degreaser and wool brush method know to man to include this stuff a friend gave me that melted latex gloves. I just ran out and tested a small spot with the mini-torch, seems like it's gonna do a pretty decent job. Though I don't want to remove all the electrical wires and such so getting very close to them is going to be a little tougher. I have one of the rattle can triggers that you're talking about and will definitely use it. Thanks for reminding me about it...
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Jimbo '72 SWB - 350 (frame-off resto in progress - donations accepted) '04 Chevy Avalanche '03 Cadillac CTS (wife's ride) Restoration progress - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=335707 |
06-30-2005, 09:38 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Teeswater, Ontario, Canada
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If you trust yourself using sharp objects get a razor blade, the type that the body guys use and scrape it off. I did most of the firewall this way.
Jamie |
06-30-2005, 10:34 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
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Mineral spirits will soften undercoating, put some in a spray bottle and soak it up several times. Or try some WD40. Once it is softened, I would get a pressure washer and blast the gunk off. Just don't use the torch method with the mineral spirits !!!
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 Last edited by Green Machine; 06-30-2005 at 10:38 PM. |
06-30-2005, 10:37 PM | #11 |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
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Someone over in the Paint and Body section suggested "Oven Cleaner" a while back on a similar post about getting undercoating off the floors
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06-30-2005, 10:58 PM | #12 |
blood type; Retumbo
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: next to my reloading bench
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brake cleaner & a match. oh wait, you wanna keep the truck. skip the match, just use the brake cleaner & a scraper. then a wire brush.
is the primer self etching? I have seen many engine bays done with rattle cans. it holds up quite well. just doesnt look super nice. but for a DD it will be perfect.
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06-30-2005, 11:49 PM | #13 |
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Location: CA
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If you don't care about the paint, a wire wheel mounted on a hand-held grinder will take that stuff right off in a matter of seconds. Be sure to wear safety goggles though so you don't get flying wires stuck in your eyeballs.
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07-01-2005, 12:15 AM | #14 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
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Location: Kent, WA
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I have used about everything but find the fastest way now is a heat gun (Harbor Freight $15) and a putty knife. Then use coarse steel wool and mineral sprits to get off the thin black slime that is left. Sometimes just the putty knife will flake it off if it is really old and brittle. Maybe just in the winter...LOL. I used to use a torch but the heat gun is much safer and plenty hot enough to take off even the paint.
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07-01-2005, 03:46 AM | #15 |
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I have had good results with Dawn Power disolver, get it a your local grocery store
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07-01-2005, 04:48 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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07-01-2005, 07:36 AM | #17 |
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Join Date: Feb 2000
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I used laquer thinner and a rag when I was doing my non-AC to AC conversion. I had the fender and inner wheel well out of the way so I had VERY good access on that side. The paint that was protected under there looked real good when I was done.
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07-01-2005, 08:56 AM | #18 |
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I used a Windex spray bottle filled with kerosene. Spray the kerosene on and let it soak for about ten minutes. Then scaped it off with a putty knief. Washed it with Dawn dish detergent and then used a wire brush in the drill. Cleaned it all off.
Don in Mn
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07-01-2005, 10:10 AM | #19 |
What's that funky smell?
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 610
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I got oven cleaner on the firewall when I was deegreasing the engine. Cleaned the it up nicely, so I did the entire firewall. I made sure I rinsed it off in just a couple of minutes. Still, it removed the paint in one small area by the trans linkages.
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07-01-2005, 03:40 PM | #20 |
Keep On Truckin'
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Buda, Texas
Posts: 1,354
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3M Clean and Strip Wheels
Norton makes something similar too. These are also very good for removing rust, bondo, paint and finger if you're not careful...
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