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#1 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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ready to build a new 4x4...suggestions?
im ready to build a new 4x4 and would appreciate some constructive input. it will be registered as a 68 4x4 3/4 ton long box. i really want the strength of the 3/4 ton or is that over kill for what i want to do with it?
first choice is the stock 68 3/4 chassis. i have some very nice 16x8 wheels i could use with this set up. i really dont want a sky high truck. any opinions on tire size? this rig will be for hauling and towing, not off roading. if i have to go with a small lift im ok with that. no disks with the stock 68 . ive heard good and bad on the stock style front end. i also have a complete 71 4x4 1/2 ton chassis. with this i could transfer the 2.5 lift softride springs off my current ride, or just use the 3/4 ton springs off the 68 chassis?. also i would use my stock style rallies with the 33 x 12.50. i already have. would helper springs or helper air bags make this 1/2 ton as sturdy as the 3/4 ton? what will i be carrying? loads of pavers and bricks, loads of drywall, loads of lumber, loads of top soil etc etc... or pulling my 61 lincoln on a car trailer or any other 67-72 trucks i cant live without. as far as drivetrain it will be using the 71 transfer case and automatic tranny. i have a very nice professionally rebuilt 350 small block i can put in or i have a 68 427 4 bolt i can put in (not a tall deck). gas mileage isnt a consideration. any suggestions on this build will be appreciated. |
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#2 | |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,283
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if it was mine, i would use the 68 K20 drivetrain... on that, i would put a rear 14 bolt out of a 73-87 k20, and a front dana 44 or 10 bolt from a 73-87 k20.. i would also find a SM465 4 speed if its going to be used to towing, ive seen too many autos blow up under a load.
the 1/2 tons literly cant be made as stout as a 3/4 ton.. i welded some 1/2 ton frame horns on my k20, and they are visably smaller (thinner) then the rest of my frame hope i could help ![]()
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ASE Master Certified-GM Trained-Mechanic 1968 Chevy C30 157" WB Wrecker 1969 Chevy CST/10 SWB 1971 Chevy Custom/10 (first truck) 350, NV3500 5 speed 1971 Chevy K20 Custom Camper 4x4 350 TBI, SM465/NP205 1974 Chevy Custom Deluxe/10 1979 Chevy Custom Deluxe K10 farm truck beater 1989 Chevy K2500 Quote:
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#3 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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hey thanks for the quick input. as far as a 4sp goes i have one of those too but man i hate shifting with a passion. maybe if i had the turbo 350 built stouter than stock?
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#4 |
Bloo
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Barren County Kentucky
Posts: 6,283
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hehe i dont blame ya there, i love shifting but its starting to get to me in the form of weak knees.
after re-reading your post, you could probably get by with a mildly built th350 or a stock th400... the things i haul usually cant though (about 8 tons of hay), but you should be fine with an auto. you could even get by with the rearend out of the 68, but if its an eaton corp (most likely) it is difficult to find parts for. the only real concern i would have with the 68 equipment would be the front diff, because of the closed knuckle and the very large turning radius... it might not be too much of a problem, ive never personally drove one, but ive heard it can be a real pain with a trailer |
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#5 | |||
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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Quote:
The 12-bolts are strong, so if you only intend to *occasionally* haul pavers, bricks, top soil, drywall, loads of lumber, and other *lightweight* items, then maybe the 1/2 ton axles would be fine. ![]() The front discs would be nice to have, as well. Tough call without knowing exactly now much heavy hauling will be done. Also, the 12-bolt has more gearing options and more locker or limited slip options than anything but the front D44s or a D60. Quote:
![]() What? ![]() ![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() If you stick with the TH350, you save costs since you already have the proper adapter for the xfer case and also won't have to swap in a TH400 compatible input shaft into the NP205. No brainer, IMO. Set the strength issues aside until the truck proves that you need more tranny beef. Sounds like a great project. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#6 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,851
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A couple suggestions I have.First,I would go 3/4t.The`68 front springs won`t swap with the`71(`69-up).You could do the small(2 or 2 1/2")shackle-flip and not change anything with the rear springs.Either get add-a-leafs or 2"lift(HD-type)springs for front.Or,go to a spring shop and get it exactly how you want.For tires you could run 285/75x16s on those 8" wheels.I have this set-up currently on a truck with about 2" of spring work.Use a super-HD tranny cooler and maybe a temp guage.I have one in the blank(vac)hole in the dash.There`s also deep pans for capacity.I had no problem getting parts for my Eaton rear.The closed knuckle doesn`t turn as tight,but you could live with it.Here`s what the wheels/tires/lift looks like:
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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A picture's worth a thousand words. If only that dog matched that work truck!
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__________________
'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#8 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Sounds like the beginings of a stout work truck.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
Posts: 1,421
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I'd go with the 68 K20 setup. A dana 44 front fron a newer truck with disk brakes. A corp 14FF bolt rear (move spring pads & shock mounts) 16x8 wheels are fine. If your using it as a work truck lifting it makes it harder to load. (harder on your back) HD spings and some gas shocks front, air shock rears to even it out under loads. Never did like auto trannys but your in Seattle I understand why you would want it. What gearing are you planning to use? Here is a pic of my 67 K20 standing on 265-16's and worn out stock shocks. Tall enough to clear anything I want to drive over and still low enough to side load with the bucket of my small tractor.
Last edited by Americanrider; 07-06-2005 at 04:07 PM. |
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#10 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,851
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And pull a lever to unload!Nice six-eight.About the dog(Cubby).It`s my daughter`s(really!).When he comes over he`s all shampoodled.When he goes home he`s got burrs,grease spots,been in the mud,and took a roll in the cow-pies.He looks better to me with his face all blackish.She hates it,but knows he`s had the time of his life,so...
He`s a Hillbilly Pedigree.
__________________
"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#11 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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i have a 71 4x4 half ton now. i built it years ago but never really finished it. (no paint or body work). we were doing a total redo on a brick house when i got her on the road. i remember filling that poor thing up with all the stuff you use on a home redo and thinking next time i build one of these things i want it to be a 3/4 ton big block and auto matic. i dont want to wish i had a 3/4 ton anymore. lots of great ideas guys. i will sort through them and get to gettin on this thing. ride height on the two trucks you guys posted are both perfect. too much higher and you cant load the darn things by hand. im going to see if anyone makes 3/4 ton springs with a 2 inch lift to them. i know i can get em for half ton. as far as gearing i dont know yet. i will have to see what it has now. ive seen quite a few 3/4 ton 4x4 on craigs list with shot motors. maybe that would be the way to go for getting a later model front and rear end. im still up for suggestions on stuff i may be missing...thanks a ton
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
Posts: 1,421
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There is a set of 3/4ton axles in Portland up for sale, check the 73 & up parts board. A 4.09 F & 4.10 rear IIRC. Was thinking about getting them for my truck but already have a good front so I only need a rear now.
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#13 | |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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Quote:
hey thanks i will look them up. lol i forgot about the other parts boards. i never look at the newer trucks. guess i need to expand my horizons a little. |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: "Under Montana skies."
Posts: 1,836
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If you choose to go with a 14bFF, the 73up 3/4 ton trucks have the wrong spring perch spacing, as AmericanRider alluded to. I ton GM trucks had 14bFFs with the same spring pad spacing as 67-72 GM 4x4 light trucks. I think 1 tons are 77up. And I'm speaking of SRW, though DRWs probably have the same spacing, obviously. Just addl hassle with the DRW set up.
BTW, we're ahead of ourselves. What rear axle does the '68 3/4 ton have and what gear ratio? If it is a D60, no need to change. Preferable, in fact. If it is an Eaton, I'd run it as long as you don't mind the 4.11 gear ratio.
__________________
'71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. |
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#15 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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im not sure what it is. the chassis doesnt come home till the 15th. i bought a project/pile-o-parts from a board member. ive been picking up misc stuff for the last year. not sure what i was going to build. i had to let the burb and all the parts tires wheels etc etc go since my honey said she would never ride in it no matter how much work i did to it. i have the start of a couple of shortbed projects. tons of extra body parts. extra 4x4 chassis. im in the process of going through what im going to keep now. i will keep just what i need for this project only, and sell everything else so i will have room to spread out a little. thanks again guys for the advice. its really appreciated.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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WA. member
Who is the member in you area with the long standing for sale ad for a 68 anniversary addition cst 4x4? (Dan I beleive) I can see it now a clean 68 3/4 4x4 with factory air.
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Bob Last edited by cheyenne10; 07-11-2005 at 12:52 AM. |
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#17 | |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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Quote:
hey bob your a mind reader. i bought that set up from dan and im going to use the cab and a few other things i bought from you. which means i will be selling that short chassis when i get around to digging it out from under all the stuff i have stacked on it. oh and if you could give me a little more info on those springs it would really be appreciated. thanks, mark Last edited by CG; 07-11-2005 at 01:26 AM. |
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#18 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,851
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I want a short 4wd frame!!Dig it out,stuff it in an envelope,stick a stamp on it,and pop it in the mail....I wish
__________________
"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#19 | |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
|
Quote:
sorry..its a shorty 2 wheel drive, otherwise i would have popped it in the mail for ya ![]() Last edited by CG; 07-11-2005 at 09:39 AM. |
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
Posts: 1,421
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CG are you building that 68 Annie that Dan was selling? Thought that was a 4sp truck?
I'd also like to know the price of your new spring set cheyenne 10, up here in Tacoma they want about 145 ea for stock front 3/4ton 4x4 springs and 225 ea for rears.... and they are made in Portland LOL.... might be worth the trip to save WA sales tax, after all our witch govn'r will just spend it on dumb $&!*# anyway. |
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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,512
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springs
I think our prices were maybe that per pair. I will do some looking for receipts. They are easy to deal with. here is contact info.
http://www.benzspring.com/
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Bob |
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#22 | |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,131
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Quote:
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