Cab Support Replacement - Advice? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bluec10 · 08-14-2005, 02:20 AM

New cab supports are on my list of "to-dos" for the fall. Before I take on the job, does anyone have any pointers that could save me some pain during the job?

DTerry · 08-14-2005, 07:40 AM

I'm still in the process of doing ours. Decided to first shave our drip rails before spending much more time on the cab incase we ruin it doing the rails.

At any rate, this probably isn't the best advise you'll get, but it's how I'm doing it. Take a torch and remove the old one(s). I'm pretty decent with a torch and can remove one layer of sheet metal that's been spot welded to another. I'm just going slow and not pulling the oxy trigger, just heat the first layer 'til it drips away. Don't try this unless you can get everything just right with your hand and torch. Once the old is out, I'll put some holes in where I can do some plug welds to hold it in.

If you bought the replacement supports, you'll want to get just about every bit of the old ones out first, or the new ones won't fit in at all. For me it's been very time consuming.

(D)

bluec10 · 08-14-2005, 03:07 PM

Do you drill out the spot welds first, or are you just cutting through them?

DTerry · 08-14-2005, 08:01 PM

Niether. I don't have a spot weld drill for it. Nor do I want holes through the good parts. It's really too hard to torch half way through the spot weld, so I've left that little extra thickness for now and will be grinding them smooth before installing the new supports.

I hope you (we) get more ideas here, because what I'm doing works but probably isn't the best way. I think outside of drilling them, its the easiest way I can do it.

4x4Poet · 08-14-2005, 08:17 PM

blueC10, how where is the rust damage on the cap supports:
Just the bottom, or the bottom and sides?

If it is just the bottom, you might first just use a air cutoff wheel with 1/32" thick cutoff wheel to cut away the rusted parts and then look further inside for any more rust damage? Expect to find holes in the inner rocker behind the A-pillar.

You might get away with just repairing the damaged area vice replacing the entire rocker. BTW, have you removed the floormats/carpet and sill plates to check for floor rust? That could drive your decision making.

Pics?

86swb · 08-14-2005, 08:31 PM

What ever you do don't buy those silly overlays. All they do is hide the problem.

08-14-2005, 02:20 AM	#1
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Cab Support Replacement - Advice? New cab supports are on my list of "to-dos" for the fall. Before I take on the job, does anyone have any pointers that could save me some pain during the job? __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

08-14-2005, 07:40 AM	#2
DTerry '70 GMC C-25 LWB Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Binghamton, N.Y. Posts: 273	I'm still in the process of doing ours. Decided to first shave our drip rails before spending much more time on the cab incase we ruin it doing the rails. At any rate, this probably isn't the best advise you'll get, but it's how I'm doing it. Take a torch and remove the old one(s). I'm pretty decent with a torch and can remove one layer of sheet metal that's been spot welded to another. I'm just going slow and not pulling the oxy trigger, just heat the first layer 'til it drips away. Don't try this unless you can get everything just right with your hand and torch. Once the old is out, I'll put some holes in where I can do some plug welds to hold it in. If you bought the replacement supports, you'll want to get just about every bit of the old ones out first, or the new ones won't fit in at all. For me it's been very time consuming. (D) __________________ 1970 GMC C-25 LWB (middle of frame up) 5-7 drop with 3in drop spindles, flip kit with blocks and still keeping the 3/4 ton. Shaved drip rails and marker lights, rear roll pan, cowl induction hood. 1987 Camaro z28 350, vortec 305 heads. 10:1 comp, t5 trans. Street terrrorizer. 1988 Monte Carlo (Super Stock ashpalt race car) My Truck

08-14-2005, 03:07 PM	#3
bluec10 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 663	Do you drill out the spot welds first, or are you just cutting through them? __________________ Present: 2015 Tacoma. Yeah, not a GM, but I love it. 1969 GMC 32,000 - fix, drive, relax, fix... 2019 BMW R1250 GSA - Yahoooooooo 1979 Honda GL 1000 - retro touring at its best. Past: '05 Sierra 4x4 - Had 270,000 KM and running well when it was written-off by a stop sign runner. '94 F-150 from the "F word" company. I'll admit it...good truck. Sold what was left of it for $800 to a guy who came to pick it up at 11:00 PM with cash in hand. Hmm. '79 Sierra Grande (Black) organ donor - perfect rebuildable 4-bolt 350 and a good TH350. '76 Sierra Grande (Orange) - hate isn't too strong a word. Kid who bought it turned it into a hot rod. '68 C-10 R.I.P. - Dad's old truck...too far gone to resurrect. '59 C-50 - with hoist. Truck is gone, wife isn't. Nuff said.

08-14-2005, 08:01 PM	#4
DTerry '70 GMC C-25 LWB Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Binghamton, N.Y. Posts: 273	Niether. I don't have a spot weld drill for it. Nor do I want holes through the good parts. It's really too hard to torch half way through the spot weld, so I've left that little extra thickness for now and will be grinding them smooth before installing the new supports. I hope you (we) get more ideas here, because what I'm doing works but probably isn't the best way. I think outside of drilling them, its the easiest way I can do it. __________________ 1970 GMC C-25 LWB (middle of frame up) 5-7 drop with 3in drop spindles, flip kit with blocks and still keeping the 3/4 ton. Shaved drip rails and marker lights, rear roll pan, cowl induction hood. 1987 Camaro z28 350, vortec 305 heads. 10:1 comp, t5 trans. Street terrrorizer. 1988 Monte Carlo (Super Stock ashpalt race car) My Truck

08-14-2005, 08:17 PM	#5
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	blueC10, how where is the rust damage on the cap supports: Just the bottom, or the bottom and sides? If it is just the bottom, you might first just use a air cutoff wheel with 1/32" thick cutoff wheel to cut away the rusted parts and then look further inside for any more rust damage? Expect to find holes in the inner rocker behind the A-pillar. You might get away with just repairing the damaged area vice replacing the entire rocker. BTW, have you removed the floormats/carpet and sill plates to check for floor rust? That could drive your decision making. Pics? __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

08-14-2005, 08:31 PM	#6
86swb Born a Chevy Man Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Navarre, Florida Posts: 10,221	What ever you do don't buy those silly overlays. All they do is hide the problem. __________________ John or 86 (Viet Nam combat Vet-BIG RED ONE) '65-'66 1986 Chevy SWB Silverado 1984 Chevy Longbed Silverado New Kia Sportage (Wife's car and she loves it) CHEVY, American made w/pride! If you can read this, YOU NEED TO THANK A TEACHER! If you can read this in ENGLISH, PLEASE THANK A SOLDIER! GOD BLESS AMERICA AND BLESS OUR FIGHTING TROOPS

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