Driveshaft support slop

[farside847]

After getting some good advise from some members on here, I rolled under my truck last night to try to wiggle my driveshaft (hehehe). The UJoints felt good and tight, with no slop at all. But since I have a 2 piece driveshaft there is a center support piece that has about 1/4" play all the way arround. Am I safe to assume that it should be tight and not be able to wobble?

So, I am thinging it needs replaceing and while Im at it I should probably do the UJoints for good measure. I looked it up in my 71 service manual and it mentions the use of a heavy press or vise. Can this be done with normal tools and not a press? I thought the joints were held in by little springs... Any advise on how to replace these parts would be much appreciated.

I looked up the parts I need in the LMC catalog and it confused me. There looks to be two versions of this center support piece? I think mine looks like part number 34-1671 (hey, maybe the 71 in the part number should tell me something since its a 71 c10)

Here is a pic of what Im looking at.

[farside847]

All I really need to know is if there is supposed to be any slop in this center bearing before I call up and order one....

[sneakysnake]

The carrier bearing"center support" is mounted in a rubber gromet and will have some play, look for tears. ujoints have a "G" clip to hold the end caps in but they wont just fall out if you remove them.A press will push them in and out easier without knocking the needle bearing loose.A hammer and old socket can be used too but you have to watch and not let one of the needles fall out or over in the cap. Also mark your drive shaft so that each end is back in same place for balance purposes.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

If your not sure about doing it go to a local machine shop. They can replace it all and should have all the parts available to them from local parts house's

[4x4Poet]

The play that carrier bearing has is too much and will contribute to u-joint wear since the play adds vibrations and more excessive DS yoke angles under torque. U-joints hate angles. The less angle the better.

As many board members have posted, if you want a near permanent solution, go poly:
http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html
The rubber carrier bearings wear out too fast, but they're cheap. I found that my local bearing supply store had them cheaper than auto parts stores. Auto parts stores could have one in a day. No shipping, too.

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

If your not sure about doing it go to a local machine shop. They can replace it all and should have all the parts available to them from local parts house's

I would think a driveshaft shop would also be a good bet.

[jlmtrout]

Some auto parts places have tools that they loan for free, they should have a tool for pressing ball joints and u-joints out and back in in the same box. Sneaky snake was correct about maintaining the same shaft orientation. Just mark the shaft so that you mate the correct sides together as they were before separating them. This tool will let you remove and install a u-joint in about 10 minutes or less. Good luck and keep on truckin'......Jerry

[farside847]

Originally Posted by 4x4Poet

As many board members have posted, if you want a near permanent solution, go poly:
http://www.iedls.com/bearings.html

Thanks, that part looks cool so I gave them a call. Its $110 plus shipping. I think I will try one more rubber one and if it goes fast try the poly one. The rubber one is only $8

good idea though!

[farside847]

Thanks for all your help guys. I love this board.

I think Im gonna try it myself this weekend. Ordered the new center bearing and new u-joints from LMC. I also called my local Napa and they can loan me a cool tool for free for one day to remove and re-install the u-joints. If I get stuck I can always take it to my local machine shop guy. Real nice guy, but I hate paying him to do something that I might have been able to do, ya know?

Will let you know how it goes!

[farside847]

Thought of another question to ask. I read somewhere that some transmissions will dump all their fluid when the driveshaft is removed unless you jack up the rear before you start. My truck has pretty good clearance so if I dont have to jack it up it would be nice. Do I need to? It has a stock 3speed manual tranny.

[Frizzle Fry]

Not as long as you don't let the shaft slip out of the tranny.

[farside847]

Well, I need to remove the drive shaft to do the ujoints and center bearing, so I guess I do need to jack it up then else get a puddle.