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Old 09-29-2005, 09:53 PM   #1
KiDD3
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Cab Supports

I'm looking to replace the front/rear cab supports on my '71 C-10. Is there an easy way to go about doing this? I haven't gone into much detail with looking at what needs to be done, but I'm assuming the floor is tack welded to the supports. Can anyone give the easiest way to replace these? Thanks!!
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Old 10-01-2005, 08:05 PM   #2
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Ahhh shucks, I was looking for at least one reply...lol...
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Old 10-01-2005, 08:19 PM   #3
4tiresngas
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I do not think the floor is tack welded to the supports. If anything, you may find the bolt heads tack welded to the floor on the inside of the cab. I haven't done this in 15 years, but I think you can just loosen them up and then jack the cab up and replace them one at a time. I would not remove them all at once. Need one side to reference or at least take a picture. That's my .02. Hope it helps.
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Old 10-01-2005, 10:01 PM   #4
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If the supports are the originals then they will be spot welded to the floor about every two inches along the flange. They may also have a couple of spot welds in the are were they bolt to the pillar. The most difficut part of the support to remove and replace is the inboard side where it attaches to the cab structure that runs fore and aft. If that section of the support is good some cut and join the new section at this area instead of replacing the support complete. If you have a lot of rust repairs to make on your cab I would recommend this video set.
http://ebfabman.com/
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Old 10-01-2005, 10:08 PM   #5
matthufham
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4tiresngas
I do not think the floor is tack welded to the supports. If anything, you may find the bolt heads tack welded to the floor on the inside of the cab. I haven't done this in 15 years, but I think you can just loosen them up and then jack the cab up and replace them one at a time. I would not remove them all at once. Need one side to reference or at least take a picture. That's my .02. Hope it helps.
he's talking cab supports, not cab mount bushings.
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Old 10-01-2005, 11:02 PM   #6
4tiresngas
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Duh...lol Thanks Matthuffman. I guess I had cab mounts on my brain since I spent all day yesterday pulling a cab...that had good cab supports, so i don't have to spend so much on bodywork.
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Old 10-02-2005, 04:00 AM   #7
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On cab supports, part of the support is around the body mount. If you don't have to remove some of the floor, I would use a nibbler or air cutoff wheel (1/32") and cut out only the rusted portions of the cab supports to start. Then look inside to see how much rust there is in there. Make further cuts only as needed to eliminate rust rot or get at some surface rust. Check up at the body bolt and at the floor backing the A-pillar for any holes or rust. Often the A-pillar bottom will catch dirt that collects moisture that rusts thru the floor/inner rocker. Such rust is only visible when the cab support has a large enough hole cut into it to see everything inside.

If your floor is fine, avoid cutting the spot welds unless the cab support rust extends that far up which is usually rare. Of course, anythings possible, especially for Rust Belt trucks. I think I'd own an aluminum bodied truck if I lived in the Rust Belt.

Anyway, take small steps. You can always cut more. You might get away with cutting a patch from a replacement cab support to weld up the hole you cut to eliminate however much rust there was. Could prove easier and faster.
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Last edited by 4x4Poet; 10-02-2005 at 04:02 AM.
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Old 10-02-2005, 12:34 PM   #8
wolfthing2000
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I am doing exactly what 4x4 poet suggests and it is slow, but working out well. I had a short section of the front support rusted through at the bottom and corresponding section of floor rust through above that . I cut out about a 6 inch section along the bottom of support channel and along the top also and got back to good metal, I then found a large bubble of rust at the floor/inner rocker area between the bolt flanges of the floor support, I cut through there and removed corresponding rust damage. This requires quite a bit of patch/section/cut/weld/grind/wirebrush/rustcleaner/ etc., but it is getting the job done.
I have the door still on so I keep tabs of what the fit is doing as I proceed. The trick is PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!! Need lotsa it!!!
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