10-03-2005, 10:43 PM | #1 |
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alignment?
I hit a deer lying in the road at about 55mph with left front wheel. Now truck pulls to the right if I let go of the wheel. I talked to a guy about an alignment he said it most likly is a busted radial in the tire does this sound right? He said swap them front ones and see if it pulls the oppisite way. Do you think it is possible that is what it is? He said the alignment wil be hard since it is lowered?
Also one more question what is the torque specs on the 6 lug drum rally wheels?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-03-2005, 11:16 PM | #2 |
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Yes swap the front tires side to side, if it pulls the other way..... tires
If it still pulls the same way....Alingment
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10-04-2005, 11:37 AM | #3 |
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anyone know the torque specs for the lugs?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 01:05 PM | #4 |
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If it pulls to the right while driving and pulls to the left while braking, you have issues with your RIGHT front brake.
More common with disc brakes and usually caused by a frozen caliper.
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10-04-2005, 01:46 PM | #5 |
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does not pull when braking at all only when driving.
anyone on the torque specs for the wheels?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 07:21 PM | #6 |
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ok swapped fronts still same pull to the right so alignment right? Question can I leave the tires swapped? Some say it will ruin the tires others say no big deal the tires are lucky if they have 3000 miles on them.
Also the alignment guy is concerened about it being lowered and what specs to use? Any help I can give him was in good alignment then hit deer and out of alignment. Most likely tierods need adjusting or what any help would be good.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 07:35 PM | #7 |
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Is it lowered with spindles, or springs? Do you see any visible damage?
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10-04-2005, 07:38 PM | #8 |
its all about the +6 inches
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why would the specs chainge?
tell him to go by factory specs for all but ride height. Point the wheels straight +1/16 toe in, make them stand up verticle (see if he'll let you put 175 poiunds of weight in the drivers seat...or what ever you weigh) and center the steering wheel. Stock specs... pretty much same specs for anything of the era. |
10-04-2005, 07:43 PM | #9 |
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Lowered with springs no visible damage that I can find. I dont know why the specs would change dont know much about alignments. Al I know is it drives great until I let the wheel go and it pulls tot the right no shaking or pulling while breaking.
Any coment on leaving the wheels swapped?
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 07:51 PM | #10 |
its all about the +6 inches
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I've heard tire reps say you can swap side to side for years now....
However, as a purchaser of used tires.... I tend to think you shouldn't do it. I have gotten known good tires and had them tossed on paying no attention and they break a belt in a metter of days. once or twice I can understand... but it has happened to me so many times it is unreal. I'd swap them back myself...before leaving the driveway again. |
10-04-2005, 08:04 PM | #11 |
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A three inch drop with springs only can be a little tough to align. It requires a bunch of spacers to get the camber close which also makes it easy to bend an upper control arm bolt. If nothings bent (look at everything.. spindles, draglink, idler, control arms.. everything) you might just have to reset the toe-in
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10-04-2005, 08:12 PM | #12 |
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The tires shouldn't be an issue unless they are directional. I rotate my tires at every oil change, and alternate front to back on one and criss-cross on the next. I have never (knock on wood) had any trouble with belt shift or break. The last set of Goodyear Eagles I put 65k on, and I have a set on my current truck that are about to see 50k.
Just my experience though, and no I don't know what the torque specs are. Also if your guy is saying it will be hard to align since it lowered you might want to consider another shop. It sounds like he doesn't prefer to work on lowered suspension....
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10-04-2005, 08:18 PM | #13 |
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hey factory specs shouldn't change but swaping the tires shouldn't matter as long as they are radicals ( i am a tire tech for sam's club) lol shouldn't hurt it a bit
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10-04-2005, 08:18 PM | #14 |
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not directional cooper cobras. I can not see anything bent but I am by no means an expert. The alignment guy is just a cranky fart I have faith he can do it. He just normal does new cars And was not sure of the factory specs so was just looking for anything to help him out. And it drives great and the pull is not super bad I have drove worse.
Thanks for your help one other thing what psi do you guys like to run in your tires.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 08:24 PM | #15 |
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A good alignment guy can set it up so it will drive straight. He will know if the angles are too far out to cause tire wear and /or pulling. I used to aling. and you can tell if there is a degrees that is to far out. Most shops now-a-days are all computer fed so if its not in the book they wont do it. It still can be done because all you have to do is work it out on paper
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10-04-2005, 08:29 PM | #16 |
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sounds like the camber is off, if you are SURE there is no bent parts. leave the tire where they are, it doesnt matter. what size tires are you running? as far as alighnment specs, set it to factory and you'll be fine.. if your caster is out, thats ok just set the other side to match it ( try to get the mesurements the same, even if out of specs..... thats CASTER only) drop springs effect camber when tou install em, so if hes not able to set camber, do to not enough adjustment with or without shims. you'll have to get a upper crost shaft for lowered trucks (they are curved for this purpose). then set to stock or as close as possible. the toe is the last and easyest to set. i like a slight positive toe apposed to 0 degrees i like to set the toe to 10 (on most alighnment machines) hope this helps
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10-04-2005, 08:39 PM | #17 |
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Well I am far from sure nothing is bent to my untrained eye nothing looks bent. the tires are 235 70 15 inch on front 275 60 15 on rear. It was running straight before the deer so I think it can be returned to same with the set up I have now.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 08:50 PM | #18 |
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stock rim size.... good (for alignment not looks tho). the camber is out, im sure. did you lose any shims ?can you post pics of print out of what he measured?
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10-04-2005, 08:54 PM | #19 |
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Not sure If I lost any shims how could I tell? I have not yet taken it to the alignment shop yet.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 09:01 PM | #20 |
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look at the upper control arm/s where it bolts to frame and you see shims behind upper cross shaft and between frame to cross shaft? if that makes sence
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10-04-2005, 09:04 PM | #21 |
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Ya I see the shims, about three looks like, they are tight in there nothing looks missing but it is hard to tell could have shifted some. The alignment place should have the factory specs for the truck correct? Have not been yet just talked to the guy.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 09:11 PM | #22 |
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one more thing I put 80 lbs of torque on the lugs that should be good I imagine.
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1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO |
10-04-2005, 09:44 PM | #23 |
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steel rims? if so id torque them to 100lbs ft.
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10-04-2005, 10:06 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
Also, alignment machines need to be recalibrated regularly. Most shops never do it. Make sure your guy does. Also, any alignment guy who can't come up with the specs for a GM 1/2 ton truck out of memory doesn't do many alignments. Also, a good alignment guy will put weight in the driver's seat to compensate for your weight. They can also tweak the specs to match your usage. As an example, I drive almost all freeway, and a lot of it. I always align mine with more caster than most people do. That makes the truck drive better on the road (heavier feel), at a very slight expense in slow speed steering.
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10-05-2005, 12:36 PM | #25 |
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I called the alignment guy he said these were the specs he had but they are for a 69-70 chevy c10.
camber= min 0 max .50 caster= min -.25 max +.25 toe-in = 1/8" to 1/4" does this sound right will it be the same for 68
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