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Old 07-12-2002, 04:51 AM   #1
A.P.
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Unhappy Battery gauge.

Does any body know how the battery gauge is connected?
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Old 07-12-2002, 06:00 AM   #2
68 Stepside
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I'm not sure how it's all connected up. But if it isn't working, the first things to check are your fuses for it. There's one over by the junction block on the passenger fender (next to the battery), and there's one on the left side as well, you'll see the holders. They just pull apart and have very small low amperage fuses in them. Those are usually the culprit if the gauge isn't working.

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Old 07-12-2002, 06:04 AM   #3
JIMs70GMC
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Here's the scoop..

The factory ammeter measures the voltage drop across the wire used to charge the battery. Next to the battery mounted on the fender is a terminal post where the red wire from the battery along with another red wire that runs along the core support and a little black wire. The black wire goes to one side of the ammeter. This wire has an inline fuse, need to check that. As you follow the red wire along the core support it will come to another junction, One wire I believe goes to the regulator on the core support, another goes to the alternator and finnaly a third black wire goes to the other side of the ammeter. This is also fused. Need to check that. Mine was tucked up near the wiper fluid bottle. Hope this helps.......
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1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 07-12-2002, 06:43 AM   #4
A.P.
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Smile

Thanks alot JIMs70GMC, I will check it as soon as I get off from work.

A.P.
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Old 07-12-2002, 08:12 AM   #5
JIMs70GMC
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Don't you just hate that. Get all this usefull info and sitting at work.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 07-12-2002, 08:32 AM   #6
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it beats workin'. can you guess where i am? and not doin what i am supposed to?
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Old 07-12-2002, 11:56 AM   #7
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Don't know if this will help, but hey, you can't have too much information

http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/wiringdias.html
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Old 07-12-2002, 01:12 PM   #8
SWINGSAX68
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Same problem.

Hey Guys I'm having the same problem......but I took off that little fuse thingy by the battery. I know there is one by the windsheild fluid bottle, is one fuse sufficient?? When I tried to just run the little black wire straight to red battery charger wire nothing works....could it be that the fuse needs to be there? Can I buy a fuse to add there? Do I need that little junction box thingy or can I just wire them straight together, and let them free float????
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Old 07-12-2002, 01:33 PM   #9
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You need the fuse to complete the circuit. You could just take out the fuse and splice the wire but I wouldn't - that fuse is there for a purpose, mainly to keep your truck from burning to the ground. You should be able to buy the fuse at any auto store.
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Old 07-12-2002, 05:40 PM   #10
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My problem was that the printed circuit board was burnt
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Old 07-13-2002, 03:14 AM   #11
A.P.
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Thanks guys, it turn out to be one of the fuses. It was well hiden.

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