The unknown

[desertlobo]

This is my first post because I am final going to get my 68 c20 on the road, my 15 year thinks its his but what he doesn't know won't hurt him!!

My truck is going to be used for strickly street in Phoenix so I have a question.

I want to put a c10 rearend either 5 or 6 lug in it assuming it would be better in the long run for the street. Also I plan on putting disc on the front so I have to get rid of the rear 8 lug in the rear. Any suggestions. I am going to drive 200 miles to buy the c10 rearend out of a 78 chevy tomorrow so any help would be basically life saving.

[sdkid]

That 78 will be leaf spring. If you have a chevy it is coil spring. Modifications will be needed to install the 78 diff.

[desertlobo]

On my 68 it is leaf spring I went and looked.

[stllookn]

C20 could be a leaf spring rear so it may not be a problem. Check on your glove box door to see if you have the Eaton, Dana, ratio and posi if it listed there. It could be worth something to those of us that are doing stock c20 restorations.

[desertlobo]

No problem I'll check now

[desertlobo]

I checked and all they have on the glove door is the option numbers.

[stllookn]

Can you tell by looking if it is an Eaton or Dana? Eaton has the round cover. You will probably have to pull the cover to determine if it has posi. Is it a big block truck? '68 C20 4.10 - HB8, NoSPIN 4.10 - G86, POWR-LOK w/396 G87.

[desertlobo]

I'll have to look tomorrow and let you know, its a 327 so I assuming its a small block. Will there be anything stamped on the axel or inside the pumkin.

[Flat 67]

Lobo, What are you going to be using for front disc brake?

[desertlobo]

Right now I have no idea, like I said this is my first shot at something like this.
Have any suggestions?

[Flat 67]

Can you buy the front disc brakes from the same place/truck you are buying the rear end from?

[desertlobo]

yea he has the front end too but I have already had the front end just rebuilt on the truck.

Here's a question, is there anywhere in the world I can get a list by chevy code of the options that my truck was built with? My glove compartment list rearend but it has a GM code and I was hoping it would discribe what the option really consists of.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by desertlobo

This is my first post because I am final going to get my 68 c20 on the road, my 15 year thinks its his but what he doesn't know won't hurt him!!

My truck is going to be used for strickly street in Phoenix so I have a question.

I want to put a c10 rearend either 5 or 6 lug in it assuming it would be better in the long run for the street. Also I plan on putting disc on the front so I have to get rid of the rear 8 lug in the rear. Any suggestions. I am going to drive 200 miles to buy the c10 rearend out of a 78 chevy tomorrow so any help would be basically life saving.

WHY NOT JUST STICK WITH THE 3/4 TON REAR END?? YOU CAN GET A COMPLETE FRONTEND OUT OF A 71 OR 72 3/4 TON & HAVE YOUR DISCS. WHEN COMPRING A 3/4 TON REAREND WITH 375-1 GEAR RATIO AS COMPARED TO A 1/2 TON REAREND WITH 375-1 GEARS , THE DIFFERENCE IS PRACTICALLY NONEXISTANT. THE RIDE COMFORTABUILITY COMES FROM THE SPRINGS, & THE DRIVABUILITY COMES FROM THE GEAR RATIO. YOU MIGHT BE BETTER OFF KEEPING THAT REAREND & CHANGING OUT THE GEAR RATIO FOR ONE THAT YOU NEED (OR WANT). JUST ANOTHER THOUGHT. JOHN

[desertlobo]

Would the front end out of a 71 or 72 have 8 hole front end?

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by desertlobo

Would the front end out of a 71 or 72 have 8 hole front end?

YES ... A 3/4 TON WOULD. IS YOUR MAIN OBJECTIVE TO DO AWAY WITH THE 8 LUG RIMS FOR SOME REASON?? JOHN

[desertlobo]

It was if I were to put a kit for the front disc brakes. Also I would like to pick up more speed and less torque. I have good 8 lug rims.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by desertlobo

It was if I were to put a kit for the front disc brakes. Also I would like to pick up more speed and less torque. I have good 8 lug rims.

YOU CAN PICK UP A COMPLETE FRONT END OUT OF A TRUCK UP TO ABOUT 1985 FOR ABOUT $100 -$150 & THEY ARE PRACTICALLY A BOLT IN DEAL. I THINK WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IS A CHANGE IN GEAR RATIO. I'M NOT TRYING TO TALK YOU INTO ANYTHING, BUT IF YOU WERE TO BUY A 1/2 TON REAR END WITH THE SAME GEAR RATIO AS YOU HAVE NOW, THE DIFFERENCE IN SPEED, TORQUE,& GAS MILEIAGE WOULD BE UNMEASURABLE. JOHN

[desertlobo]

I really appreciate the advise and I'm going to take it.

Thanks again

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by desertlobo

I really appreciate the advise and I'm going to take it.

Thanks again

NO PROBLEM.. P.M. ME IF YOU LIKE & I WILL GIVE YOU MY PHONE # (IT'S HARD TO EXPLAIN SOME OF THIS STUFF OVER THE COMPUTER) & I'VE BEEN DOING THESE FOR A WHILE NOW. JOHN

[Mongo]

to do a brake swap you do not need to get the whole cross member! just get the upper and lower a-arms with spindles attached and the proportioning valve. Oh you may need to get the outer tie-rod ends for the newer spindles. everything will bolt right up.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Mongo

to do a brake swap you do not need to get the whole cross member! just get the upper and lower a-arms with spindles attached and the proportioning valve. Oh you may need to get the outer tie-rod ends for the newer spindles. everything will bolt right up.

YEP... YOU CAN DO IT THAT WAY. IT'S ABOUT 3 TIMES AS MUCH WORK... BUT YOU CAN DO IT THAT WAY . I'VE DONE IT BOTH WAYS, & FOR ME THE WHOLE CROSSMEMBER SWAP IS MUCH EASIER & FASTER. BUT WHATEVER WORKS FOR YOU. JOHN

[53burb]

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