master cylander replacement.

[Premium72]

called the part is CHEEP.
what am i lookn at for labor here. .haha..is this gana take me all day a few hrs or a few minutes? let me know. wana try an do it tomorrow..thanx as always. w.

[dyingdeadman]

about an hour or so. not too bad. dont forget to bench bleed it.

[shifty]

any explanation on bench bleeding for us not-so-brake-savvy people?

[dennislbrooks]

should be with the instruction in the box--also in Haynes. Chuck one of the mounting ears in a vise -- put a bucket or cardboard underneath on the floor -- just in case ------put the plugs in very loose ---- with a blunt screwdriver -- phillips --- gently push plunger in about 3/4" --tighten both line plugs------ fill bowls about 1/2 to 2/3 full with fluid -- and slowly release plunger. That is just a start ----- slowly push in and let out plunger until there are no more air bubbles -- none --zip--- do this with reservoir cap on but maintain fluid level. others will have better and different methods. Once I have finished the bench bleed and installed on vehicle --let the fluid leak a little on the flare nuts before tightening. Once in a while I do not even need to bleed the brakes at the wheels --- but count on doing it anyway.

[jlmtrout]

You also may have to power bleed the master cylinder after you bench bleed and mount it. I had trouble with low pressure from the back line to my calipers and couldn't figure out why. I found an article on power bleeding and that solved my low pressure problem. To power bleed, remove the line with low pressure between the master cylinder and the proportioning valve (disc brakes) and cover the hole with your thumb. Have someone SLOWLY push the brake pedal. You will feel pressure build up and push your thumb off of the hole. Keep your thumb over the hole (and a rag handy) and repeat until you don't feel any more air in the master cylinder (you can tell the difference) when the pedal is pushed. Hope this helps. Good luck and keep on truckin'........Jerry