07-28-2002, 02:54 PM | #1 |
Giddy up giddy up...
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: US
Posts: 483
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Any PRIMER experts?
I'm looking for something that i would describe as a "finish primer" ... does this even exist? I went to a carshow today and saw one beatiful Nova in a dark gray primer that was almost shiny in appearance and though i didn't touch it, I could tell it wouldn't leave a dust on my fingers if I did or rub off on my clothes (that is exactly what i need!). Can anyone point me in the right direction and possibly give me a brand name to look for, type of paint, etc.? Thanks and if I am too vague in my description, please ask any questions, this is pretty important for me.
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72 with 69 grille and custom 73-87 stepside. BIG BLOCK 409, SM465, NP205, 3/4 axles slung under a 5" lift, 3"bodylift, 112" frame, and 35inch Pro Comp X-terrains... "BUILT NOT BOUGHT" Here's the site... |
07-28-2002, 02:59 PM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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A good sealer is what you need.
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07-28-2002, 03:09 PM | #3 |
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Location: Bothell, WA
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Referred to as the "suede look". As you will want this as your topcoat, you will want to use a catalized primer. These are products that don't reply on time to dry (air dry) but dry by a chemical reaction when mixed properly. The primary sources for these products are Ditzler (PPG) and DuPont. I sounds like you might like to consider one that can have a tinting agent added to provide color. If you have an auto body supply store nearby they should deal with one or the other major suppliers. I would suggest asking them for a particular recommendation. They will want to know if you are going to prime over bear metal or an existing surface. If the product is mixed according to the directions and sprayed properly it will have all the protective qualities of paint. I want to caution you strongly about the toxicity of these products. Make sure you have a high quality respirator on when spraying. If you don't have access to a spray booth I would encourage you to do this outside where the overspray particles will not concentrate and overwhelm your respirator. Professionals who do this on a daily basis and care for their health work in a booth that draws the overspray out very rapidly and use a system that provides air from a source outside the booth to endure no particles get into the lungs. This stuff can be sanded and buffer to what ever level of shine you desire if you apply enough coats. I would suggest at least 4 if that is part of your planning.
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07-28-2002, 03:15 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Paradise TX USA
Posts: 1,200
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Probably what you're looking for is PPG DP 90 epoxy primer.
It goes on with a dark gray satin finish.
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07-28-2002, 06:23 PM | #5 |
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Location: pell city,AL
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Do not use PPG dp products unless you are going to paint over it they will chalk up they have no UV stablizers in them.
If you want a great satin prime look just use black primer and top coat it with a flattend clear. it will ware and wash great and feel smooth to the touch. |
07-28-2002, 06:58 PM | #6 |
Giddy up giddy up...
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: US
Posts: 483
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All right, I'll probably go with the quickest solution since i have to completely restore this truck before winter (OUCH!). Tuck, i can get both of those in a rattle can, right? Any preferred brand of primer everyone? Thanks for the posts guys.
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72 with 69 grille and custom 73-87 stepside. BIG BLOCK 409, SM465, NP205, 3/4 axles slung under a 5" lift, 3"bodylift, 112" frame, and 35inch Pro Comp X-terrains... "BUILT NOT BOUGHT" Here's the site... |
08-20-2002, 08:25 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wadesboro, NC
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how long can you go without painting? I am looking at Dupont and The PPG DP 90.
And how do you prep before using each? Thanks for any help. |
08-20-2002, 11:17 PM | #8 |
SLICER AND DICIER
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quuen Creek
Posts: 1,383
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The epoxy's are a great barrier for moisture but the sand like a ROCK, not user friendly at all. I bought a gallon at the suggestion of my local body supply store and I hated it. I threw the rest out and bot some urethane based primer, it sands beutifully.
Oh and the rattle can, AVOID AT ALL COSTS!!!!!! It is OK for spotting in small body work in a pinch, but you do not want to do you whole truck in RATTLE. You will have spray lines all over the truck, and next to that beutiful NOVA you described, the RATTLE CAN job will look like A$$!! JMO hope I didn't hurt any feelings.
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08-20-2002, 11:51 PM | #9 |
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The smoothest primer would be a urethane primer surfacer. If you over reduce it a little, and have it tinted black, you'll definitely get what you want. If you're good with the gun it will lay down almost flawlessly. The key to it is putting it down wet enough, not moving too fast, etc.
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08-20-2002, 11:54 PM | #10 |
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I forgot to mention.... there are also urethane sealers. Dupont just made a new one.... 2800 series. Comes in white, grey, and dark grey. I was told it lays down even smoother than an epoxy sealer. Maybe thats something to consider. It isn't too bad in price, relatively speaking, it cost about $60 for a sprayable quart and a half.
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08-20-2002, 11:57 PM | #11 |
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Location: NW Iowa
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Not that it's terribly important but Eddie H. said DP 90 is gray. DP 90 is black. DP 50 is gray. Both are the same I've been told, and etching primer. I'm going to use the DP 50 hopefully tomorrow.
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08-21-2002, 01:12 AM | #12 |
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Location: Lafayette, LA
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PPG has free technical advice from their reps. You will want to discuss this at the local distributor and let them know the plan. There are very important considerations redarding how long you can leave the primer before topcoating, etc. If you plan on leaving it in primer form, you will want to make this clear to the rep, so that they understand the primer needs to seal the surface.
It is very expensive...I spent $240 on primer alone for my truck.
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