Engine turns over but won't fire

[COBALT]

I just replaced my manifold, and finished putting everything back on the engine. I marked where the distributor was, and put it back EXACTLY where it was. Plugs are in good shape, and I got new plug wires. The starter is cranking the engine but it won't fire. Plug wires are set in the distributor according to their firing order starting at #1 terminal: 18436572

Here's what I've done:

1. Thought I might have accidentally turned the dist. 90 degrees while it was on the bench, so I pulled it, turned it 90 and put it back in. Then the engine wouldn't even turn over. It started to, but then hung like it was fighting compression.

2. I pulled the distrubutor, and I turned it back to where it was to begin with, and starting rotating the distrubutor COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and I start getting loud popping out the tailpipe.

3. I turn it back to my starting position, and turn it CLOCKWISE and nothing. I get pufs of fuel/air out of the carburetor.

Was I on to something when I turned it 90 to begin with, or am I close now??? I don't get it. I've checked everything 1000 times, and I put everything back to where it was...

[lukecp]

Does the engine have any spark? You may have had the distributor in the right spot, but the hot wire going to it could be misplaced. Just a guess....

[COBALT]

I just pulled the #1 plug, and had my nephew turn the motor over. Doesn't look like I'm getting any spark. Therefore it has to be the hot from the coil (the center of the coil to the center of the distributor) or the ground (-) to the coil, or the hot (+) from the starter to the coil.

Since I'm now by myself what would be the best way to test this?

[SWINGSAX68]

sounds like the sol. coil to me. SO the starter wants to spin or does it click????.....hmmmm...not too sure. there is a way to turn it over from the engine bay, like a wire running from the Starter terminal on the coil to the '+' battery terminal....or you can try the coil with a screw driver trick...not sure though...

[COBALT]

NO, the starter is turning the engine over, but it's not firing. In fact I'm building gas up in the exhaust manifolds (hence the periodic pop and bang).

OK, so here's the latest....I tried the "light bulb with a battery" trick. I took the lead from the starter to the + side of the coil off, and ran it to the + side of a 6V battery. Then I used a tester to the - side of the battery to the distributor housing. This electrically eliminates the starter. My nephew turned the key again, and the tester lit up! That tells me the coil's ok.

Then, I reconnected the + from the starter to the coil, and tested both sides of the coil. This re-introduces the starter to the circuit. Again, the tester lit up, so I know the lead from the starter is good. Therefore, I know the + from the starter is giving power, and the distributor is getting power via the coil, but the distributor isn't delivering spark. It's gotta be the rotor, cap, or points...

I'm gonna pull the distributor again...wish me luck.

[COBALT]

I don't get it. The points, the terminals, and everything inside the distributor look great. I know I'm getting current from the starter to the coil, and the coil is sending power to the distributor. Otherwise I wouldn't get any light on the tester. Since the distributor is the only mechanical part of it (besides the starter) the terminals have to be contacting because I get a blinking light when the key is turned.

I'm just not getting spark. Period. The only thing I know to do is to take these plug wires I just got off the engine and put the old ones back on and see if there's a difference.

I really need help bad. I'm running out of things I know how to do.

[Denny]

Sounds like your points are not opening or you have a bad coil.

[bigvinnie]

if you're sure it's getting juice at the distrubutor, I guess you could replace the number one plug wire for the hell of it and see if you get spark... if not, I'd replace points and condensor just to eliminate them from suspicion...

sounds like a case of murphy's law here.... it'll be the component that you haven't replaced yet... had a similar problem, replaced with an HEI and never looked back...

[COBALT]

Well, I just triple checked everything again, and I am getting spark now. I know because I accidentally shocked myself. So I know there's current being delivered to the plugs. I also know I'm getting fuel. My problem then must be timing.

When I initially pulled the distributor I put a mark on the firewall with a ruler so I'd remember the location of the distributor. It can't stray far anyway because of the vaccuum diaphram on the side of the distributor. It just doesn't allow a whole lot of rotation.

However, I didn't pay attention to keeping the shaft on the distributor from rotating after I pulled it out. Therefore, It's probably been turned. I aligned the peg at the bottom of the shaft with the slot in the rod inside the block, but it could be 180 degrees off. I've also turned the shaft in the distributor 180 degrees and tried that too, but neither result in the engine firing.

The points are in good shape. The rotor is good, and the cap terminals are in good shape. I replaced all that stuff back in February. I cleaned and inspected them anyway.

The starter is cranking the motor over, and delivering current to the coil. The coil is also delivering current to the distributor otherwise I wouldn't have spark. The plugs are in good shape and so are the wires (I tried the old ones and they didn't make any difference).

It's not firing at all. All it does is dump fuel into the exhaust. I periodically get a nasty backfire but that's it. I need some serious help.

[Denny]

I think I would get the motor to top dead center and put the distributor back in. Hope you get her running.

[jhow66]

Have you checked your plugs ? Sounds like they are gas fouled.

[68 Stepside]

I'm with Denny on this one. Get the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center), and drop the distributor in, with the contact on the rotor, pointing at the #1 cylinder.

Then go from there.

TJ

[Jesse 67 c-10]

I just went through the same thing when I put the dist back in the 350 after re-instaling engine. GO back to the setting where it seemed like the starter was fighting compression and retard the timing a bit and keep trying, it does this if your initial advance is a bit to much, mixture ignites too early and starter has to work against that. That was the right way, not 180 out, just advanced a bit much. your setting under 1. should be right. Have someone turn it over while you adjust the timing till it starts and runs, then use a timing light, or set to where it runs best, no pinging under power. Good luck!
Jesse

[crazy longhorn]

I 3rd the TDC thought. Pull #1 plug, & have somebody crank the eng(ign disabled) while holding you thumb over the plug hole. when you feel the comp,stop& set the balancer to 0 by hand. then pull the dist & drop it back inwith rotor pointed to#1 on the cap. Then rotate the dist 1-1 1/4" CC. that should get you in the ballpark on timing. good luck......Al

[COBALT]

Thanks guys. It's too bad I'm outa time this weekend, but I'll tackle it again next friday. I'm probably going to try and move the engine to TDC on #1 and point the distributor to #1 firing position. I'll let you know how it goes....

[70c10]

I had this exact problem last week with a project truck and it was the points. Truck had been sitting for two years but it fired right up!

[COBALT]

Sorry guys, on top of everything else I'm sick.

No, the points are in good shape. I rebuilt the ignition about 8 months ago, and the setup is still dead on. My timing is just way out of wack.

I'm going to get a chance to get back out to the farm probably on Friday night. I'll try to turn the motor over to TDC on #1, and re-align the distributor and see if that will get me in the ball park.