383 Stroker!

[Big_Block]

I was just wondering if anyone knew the exact steps to take when building a 383 stroker motor... I hvae a 350 that has already been bore .30 over, i was just wondering what all else i need to complete the project to a 383???
Thanks!!!

[Beast388]

Well.....I've built one. At minumum you'll need a new crank, pistons, rebuild kit and be prepared to do some grinding. Either a machined 400 crank or aftermarket 383 crank is needed.....as well as pistons with the right wristpin height for the increased stroke and overbore. You'll need an externally balanced harmonic dampner and flexplate/flywheel. Depending on what rods you have, you'll need to grind the tops of the rod bolts, the block or both. This is pretty much the basic stuff, if you want to know anything more specific just ask.

I have a parts list of what I have in mine if you want to see it. It is in MS Excel format.

They are definately worth the effort. Go for it!!

[Tracy Focht]

I agree....I think once you do a stroker, you won't go back....

[68 Suburban]

I have never driven one, but I have heard they are nice. But remember, it is going to ba a few more $$$ than building a 350.

[67 SS]

Check out the stroker kits from PAW,SUMMIT,etc.Some have everything but the block,which you already have.

[67 SS]

Beast388 Do all 350 blocks need to be ground for clearance?I have 400 crank I thought about trying this with but I wasn't sure about the grinding.

[Big_Block]

Thanks for the info, ya if you wouldnt mind sending the parts list that your have that would be great, would then give me an idea what to look for!!! and does anybody know the HP and ft/lbs of torque 383s come too?, cause a buddy i know has a LT-1 that around 350 hp, sooo i was just wondering if i should mabie jump on that motor or keep my block and build up the 383??

[crazy longhorn]

My 383 has a scat crank, with prepped factory 5.7 rods(350 rods). The block is clearanced just above the panrails,& the top corner of all 8 inner rod bolts are clearanced for the cam. The oilpan is clearanced in 3 places for the rods,just a heat it & ding it deal. You can get aftermarket profiled stroker rods that wont have the clearance issues that the stock rod do, but need to check to be sure that you have .050-.060 clearance anywhere the rods swing close to something. Mine uses the external balance pcs from a 400 SB (balancer/flexplate), however if I were to do another one, i think i would go for an internal balance setup.........replacing a balancer or flex plate, or swapping from an auto to a stick wouldnt be an issue, as the balancer & flx plate or flywheel can be balanced off the crank. good luck.....AL

[Beast388]

Here is a fairly complete list.........



PISTONS UEM-KB197 KEITH BLACK $251.12
RODS PAW-HR5700 PAW $398.00
CRANK 103750 SCAT $239.95
MAIN BEARINGS 695-MS909P CLEVITE77 $39.98
ROD BEARINGS 695-CB663P CLEVITE77 $19.12
CAM BEARINGS 844-1235M FED MOGUL $16.69
PISTON RINGS R9343-65 SPEED-PRO $77.95
GASKETS 375-2802 FEL-PRO $89.99
OIL PUMP 844-224-100R FED MOGUL $44.99
CAMSHAFT KIT 249-CL12-235-2 COMP CAMS $155.99
TIMING GEAR 782-327-C PETE JACKSON $138.99
HARM. DAMPER 716544 FLUIDAMPER $209.95
SPRINGS 249-981-16 COMP CAMS $57.99
MAIN STUDS 070-134-5601 ARP $44.99
HEAD BOLTS 070-134-3601 ARP $45.99
DAMPER BOLT 070-234-2501 ARP $17.99
BRASS FPLUGS 787-830001 PIONEER $13.69
WATER P. BOLTS 070-130-3202 ARP $10.99
ROCKER STUDS 070-234-7101 ARP $27.99
OIL PUMP STUD 070-230-7001 ARP $5.99
OIL PUMP PICKUP 844-224-11236 FED MOGUL $8.99
FUEL PUMP BOLTS 070-130-1602 ARP $6.39
INTAKE MANIFOLD EDL-7104 EDELBROCK $149.99
TIMING COVER SUM-6300 SUMMIT $45.69
TIMING COV.STUDS ARP-200-1401 ARP $14.95
INTAKE BOLTS ARP-134-2001 ARP $12.95
TIMING POINTER TAV-02344 TAVIA $26.69
VALVE COVERS SUM-G3302 SUMMIT $60.99
OIL PAN STUDS ARP-234-1901 ARP $19.95
DISTRIBUTOR SUM-850001R SUMMIT $149.99
FUEL PUMP 510-12-834 HOLLEY $49.99
FLEXPLATE BOLTS 070-200-2902 ARP $10.69
IGNITION MSD-6420 MSD $168.95
PLUG WIRES 110-8031 ACCEL $46.99
CARB STUDS 070-200-2401 ARP $5.99
MACHINE WORK GUSTAF'S GUSTAF'S $648.00
STARTER 3571S FARM&FLEET $39.99


This is what i have in my 388. But I'm sure one can be built with less dinero. I built the motor that I had always wanted.

As far as block grinding goes.......I had to do more than usual because I used H-beam rods with cap screws rather than a bolt and nut. This allowed me to have plenty of cam lobe clearance at the expense of a little more block grinding. As far as how much you'll need to do....it depends on the rods, crank and the block. I would make sure to use an older casting block as they tend to have more beef to them. You don't want to grind into the water jackets. The oil pan needed to be massaged in a few places as well. I had to do my machining in steps so that I could mock up the engine a couple of times to make sure everything fit and had enough clearence.